{"status":"ok","message-type":"work","message-version":"1.0.0","message":{"indexed":{"date-parts":[[2026,10,29]],"date-time":"2026-10-29T02:03:54Z","timestamp":1793239434624,"version":"4.5.0"},"reference-count":19,"publisher":"Springer Science and Business Media LLC","issue":"10","license":[{"start":{"date-parts":[[2025,5,5]],"date-time":"2025-05-05T00:00:00Z","timestamp":1746403200000},"content-version":"tdm","delay-in-days":0,"URL":"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by\/4.0"},{"start":{"date-parts":[[2025,5,5]],"date-time":"2025-05-05T00:00:00Z","timestamp":1746403200000},"content-version":"vor","delay-in-days":0,"URL":"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by\/4.0"}],"funder":[{"name":"Molde University College - Specialized University in Logistics"}],"content-domain":{"domain":["link.springer.com"],"crossmark-restriction":false},"short-container-title":["Eur J Appl Physiol"],"published-print":{"date-parts":[[2025,10]]},"abstract":"<jats:title>Abstract<\/jats:title>\n          <jats:sec>\n            <jats:title>Purpose<\/jats:title>\n            <jats:p>Climbing is one of the fastest growing sports worldwide and with recent inclusion in the Olympic Games, and mounting number of indoor climbing gyms, its popularity is augmented. However, which physiological factors that predominantly determine climbing performance is unclear. Surprisingly, evidence of the importance of climbing-specific finger strength, intuitively the most obvious physiological component for climbing performance, is limited. This study sought to examine the relationship between distal finger digits isometric strength, assessed hanging from a 22\u00a0mm edge, and redpoint climbing and bouldering performance. Moreover, the aim was to contrast the results to less climbing-specific forearm flexor (handgrip) strength and multi-joint upper extremities (pullup) strength.<\/jats:p>\n          <\/jats:sec>\n          <jats:sec>\n            <jats:title>Methods<\/jats:title>\n            <jats:p>Nineteen males (26\u2009\u00b1\u20093\u00a0years; 181\u2009\u00b1\u20097\u00a0cm; 75.2\u2009\u00b1\u20097.7\u00a0kg) with a previous redpoint level from 6b\u2009+\u2009to 8c (French grading scale) participated in the study.<\/jats:p>\n          <\/jats:sec>\n          <jats:sec>\n            <jats:title>Results<\/jats:title>\n            <jats:p>Very strong and strong associations, respectively, were shown between climbing-specific finger strength and bouldering (<jats:italic>r<\/jats:italic>\u2009=\u20090.89) and redpoint (<jats:italic>r<\/jats:italic>\u2009=\u20090.67, both <jats:italic>p<\/jats:italic>\u2009&lt;\u20090.01) climbing performance. It also exhibited a strong correlation with campus boarding (<jats:italic>r<\/jats:italic>\u2009=\u20090.82, <jats:italic>p<\/jats:italic>\u2009&lt;\u20090.01). Handgrip strength was moderately associated with redpoint (<jats:italic>r<\/jats:italic>\u2009=\u20090.54) and campus board (<jats:italic>r<\/jats:italic>\u2009=\u20090.47, both <jats:italic>p<\/jats:italic>\u2009&lt;\u20090.05), but not bouldering performance (<jats:italic>p<\/jats:italic>\u2009&gt;\u20090.05). Pullup-strength exhibited a moderate association with bouldering (<jats:italic>r<\/jats:italic>\u2009=\u20090.55) and campus boarding (<jats:italic>r<\/jats:italic>\u2009=\u20090.57, both <jats:italic>p<\/jats:italic>\u2009&lt;\u20090.05), but not redpoint performance. Body weight associated moderately with bouldering (<jats:italic>r<\/jats:italic>\u2009=\u2009\u2212 0.49) and campus boarding (<jats:italic>r<\/jats:italic>\u2009=\u2009\u2212 0.51, both <jats:italic>p<\/jats:italic>\u2009&lt;\u20090.05), whereas height did not (all <jats:italic>p<\/jats:italic>\u2009&gt;\u20090.05).<\/jats:p>\n          <\/jats:sec>\n          <jats:sec>\n            <jats:title>Conclusion<\/jats:title>\n            <jats:p>Isometric distal finger strength appears to be the physiological factor most strongly related to bouldering and redpoint performance in males. However, it should be assessed in a climbing-specific exercise.<\/jats:p>\n          <\/jats:sec>","DOI":"10.1007\/s00421-025-05802-5","type":"journal-article","created":{"date-parts":[[2025,5,5]],"date-time":"2025-05-05T15:49:40Z","timestamp":1746460180000},"page":"2823-2830","update-policy":"https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1007\/springer_crossmark_policy","source":"Crossref","is-referenced-by-count":5,"title":["Climbing performance in males: the importance of climbing-specific finger strength"],"prefix":"10.1007","volume":"125","author":[{"given":"B. F.","family":"Buraas","sequence":"first","affiliation":[],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"ORCID":"https:\/\/orcid.org\/0000-0002-5118-5784","authenticated-orcid":false,"given":"M. F.","family":"Brobakken","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"given":"E.","family":"Wang","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]}],"member":"297","published-online":{"date-parts":[[2025,5,5]]},"reference":[{"issue":"1","key":"5802_CR1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","first-page":"16","DOI":"10.1080\/17461391.2010.546431","volume":"12","author":"J Bal\u00e1\u0161","year":"2012","unstructured":"Bal\u00e1\u0161 J, Pecha O, Martin AJ, Cochrane D (2012) Hand\u2013arm strength and endurance as predictors of climbing performance. Eur J Sport Sci 12(1):16\u201325. https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1080\/17461391.2010.546431","journal-title":"Eur J Sport Sci"},{"issue":"3\u20134","key":"5802_CR2","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","first-page":"151","DOI":"10.1080\/19346182.2015.1012082","volume":"7","author":"J Bal\u00e1\u0161","year":"2014","unstructured":"Bal\u00e1\u0161 J, Mrsko\u010c J, Pan\u00e1\u010ckov\u00e1 M, Draper N (2014) Sport-specific finger flexor strength assessment using electronic scales in sport climbers. Sports Technol 7(3\u20134):151\u2013158. https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1080\/19346182.2015.1012082","journal-title":"Sports Technol"},{"issue":"2","key":"5802_CR3","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","first-page":"310","DOI":"10.1519\/JSC.0b013e3182577026","volume":"27","author":"M Fanchini","year":"2013","unstructured":"Fanchini M, Violette F, Impellizzeri FM, Maffiuletti NA (2013) Differences in climbing-specific strength between boulder and lead rock climbers. J Strength Cond Res 27(2):310\u2013314. https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1519\/JSC.0b013e3182577026","journal-title":"J Strength Cond Res"},{"issue":"2","key":"5802_CR4","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1055\/s-0034-1395514","volume":"36","author":"S Fryer","year":"2015","unstructured":"Fryer S, Stoner L, Lucero A, Witter T, Scarrott C, Dickson T, Cole M, Draper N (2015a) Haemodynamic kinetics and intermittent finger flexor performance in rock climbers. Int J Sports Med 36(2):e3. https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1055\/s-0034-1395514","journal-title":"Int J Sports Med"},{"issue":"5","key":"5802_CR5","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","first-page":"518","DOI":"10.1080\/02640414.2014.949828","volume":"33","author":"S Fryer","year":"2015","unstructured":"Fryer S, Stoner L, Scarrott C, Lucero A, Witter T, Love R, Dickson T, Draper N (2015b) Forearm oxygenation and blood flow kinetics during a sustained contraction in multiple ability groups of rock climbers. J Sports Sci 33(5):518\u2013526. https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1080\/02640414.2014.949828","journal-title":"J Sports Sci"},{"issue":"9","key":"5802_CR6","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","first-page":"1177","DOI":"10.1080\/17461391.2017.1353135","volume":"17","author":"S Fryer","year":"2017","unstructured":"Fryer S, Stone KJ, Sveen J, Dickson T, Espana-Romero V, Giles D, Balas J, Stoner L, Draper N (2017) Differences in forearm strength, endurance, and hemodynamic kinetics between male boulderers and lead rock climbers. Eur J Sport Sci 17(9):1177\u20131183. https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1080\/17461391.2017.1353135","journal-title":"Eur J Sport Sci"},{"issue":"6","key":"5802_CR7","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","first-page":"529","DOI":"10.2165\/00007256-200636060-00006","volume":"36","author":"LV Giles","year":"2006","unstructured":"Giles LV, Rhodes EC, Taunton JE (2006) The physiology of rock climbing. Sports Med 36(6):529\u2013545. https:\/\/doi.org\/10.2165\/00007256-200636060-00006","journal-title":"Sports Med"},{"issue":"1","key":"5802_CR8","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","first-page":"48","DOI":"10.1080\/02640414.2020.1804784","volume":"39","author":"D Giles","year":"2021","unstructured":"Giles D, Barnes K, Taylor N, Chidley C, Chidley J, Mitchell J, Torr O, Gibson-Smith E, Espana-Romero V (2021) Anthropometry and performance characteristics of recreational advanced to elite female rock climbers. J Sports Sci 39(1):48\u201356. https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1080\/02640414.2020.1804784","journal-title":"J Sports Sci"},{"issue":"6","key":"5802_CR9","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","first-page":"1339","DOI":"10.1519\/JSC.0000000000004464","volume":"37","author":"M Ginszt","year":"2023","unstructured":"Ginszt M, Saito M, Zieba E, Majcher P, Kikuchi N (2023) Body composition, anthropometric parameters, and strength-endurance characteristics of sport climbers: a systematic review. J Strength Cond Res 37(6):1339\u20131348. https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1519\/JSC.0000000000004464","journal-title":"J Strength Cond Res"},{"issue":"4","key":"5802_CR10","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","first-page":"301","DOI":"10.1080\/02640419608727715","volume":"14","author":"S Grant","year":"1996","unstructured":"Grant S, Hynes V, Whittaker A, Aitchison T (1996) Anthropometric, strength, endurance and flexibility characteristics of elite and recreational climbers. J Sports Sci 14(4):301\u2013309. https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1080\/02640419608727715","journal-title":"J Sports Sci"},{"issue":"7","key":"5802_CR11","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","first-page":"499","DOI":"10.1080\/026404101750238953","volume":"19","author":"S Grant","year":"2001","unstructured":"Grant S, Hasler T, Davies C, Aitchison TC, Wilson J, Whittaker A (2001) A comparison of the anthropometric, strength, endurance and flexibility characteristics of female elite and recreational climbers and non-climbers. J Sports Sci 19(7):499\u2013505. https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1080\/026404101750238953","journal-title":"J Sports Sci"},{"issue":"4","key":"5802_CR12","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","first-page":"189","DOI":"10.1080\/16501970306132","volume":"35","author":"A Hammer","year":"2003","unstructured":"Hammer A, Lindmark B (2003) Test-retest intra-rater reliability of grip force in patients with stroke. J Rehabil Med 35(4):189\u2013194. https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1080\/16501970306132","journal-title":"J Rehabil Med"},{"key":"5802_CR13","volume-title":"Applied statistics for the behavioral sciences","author":"DE Hinkle","year":"2003","unstructured":"Hinkle DE, Wiersma W, Jurs SG (2003) Applied statistics for the behavioral sciences, vol 663. Houghton Mifflin Boston"},{"key":"5802_CR14","unstructured":"IFSC (2019). IFSC Annual Report. https:\/\/www.ifsc-climbing.org\/publications\/annual_reports#nolink. Accessed 8 Nov 2024"},{"issue":"2","key":"5802_CR15","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","first-page":"140","DOI":"10.1016\/j.wem.2010.11.012","volume":"22","author":"JH Macdonald","year":"2011","unstructured":"Macdonald JH, Callender N (2011) Athletic profile of highly accomplished boulderers. Wilderness Environ Med 22(2):140\u2013143. https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1016\/j.wem.2010.11.012","journal-title":"Wilderness Environ Med"},{"issue":"3","key":"5802_CR16","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","first-page":"288","DOI":"10.3109\/11038128.2011.553687","volume":"19","author":"T Nilsen","year":"2012","unstructured":"Nilsen T, Hermann M, Eriksen CS, Dagfinrud H, Mowinckel P, Kjeken I (2012) Grip force and pinch grip in an adult population: reference values and factors associated with grip force. Scand J Occup Ther 19(3):288\u2013296. https:\/\/doi.org\/10.3109\/11038128.2011.553687","journal-title":"Scand J Occup Ther"},{"issue":"8","key":"5802_CR17","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1371\/journal.pone.0182026","volume":"12","author":"M Ozimek","year":"2017","unstructured":"Ozimek M, Rokowski R, Draga P, Ljakh V, Ambrozy T, Krawczyk M, Regwelski T, Stanula A, Gorner K, Jurczak A, Mucha D (2017) The role of physique, strength and endurance in the achievements of elite climbers. PLoS ONE 12(8):e0182026. https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1371\/journal.pone.0182026","journal-title":"PLoS ONE"},{"issue":"2","key":"5802_CR18","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","first-page":"181","DOI":"10.1080\/02640410500127785","volume":"24","author":"L Vigouroux","year":"2006","unstructured":"Vigouroux L, Quaine F (2006) Fingertip force and electromyography of finger flexor muscles during a prolonged intermittent exercise in elite climbers and sedentary individuals. J Sports Sci 24(2):181\u2013186. https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1080\/02640410500127785","journal-title":"J Sports Sci"},{"key":"5802_CR19","unstructured":"Worldmetrics (2024) Worldmetrics.org Report: global rock climbing industry statistics: market booms, participation soars. Retrieved October 24 from https:\/\/worldmetrics.org\/rock-climbing-industry-statistics\/. Accessed 29 Oct 2024"}],"container-title":["European Journal of Applied Physiology"],"original-title":[],"language":"en","link":[{"URL":"https:\/\/link.springer.com\/content\/pdf\/10.1007\/s00421-025-05802-5.pdf","content-type":"application\/pdf","content-version":"vor","intended-application":"text-mining"},{"URL":"https:\/\/link.springer.com\/article\/10.1007\/s00421-025-05802-5\/fulltext.html","content-type":"text\/html","content-version":"vor","intended-application":"text-mining"},{"URL":"https:\/\/link.springer.com\/content\/pdf\/10.1007\/s00421-025-05802-5.pdf","content-type":"application\/pdf","content-version":"vor","intended-application":"similarity-checking"}],"deposited":{"date-parts":[[2025,9,29]],"date-time":"2025-09-29T16:59:48Z","timestamp":1759165188000},"score":1,"resource":{"primary":{"URL":"https:\/\/link.springer.com\/10.1007\/s00421-025-05802-5"}},"subtitle":[],"short-title":[],"issued":{"date-parts":[[2025,5,5]]},"references-count":19,"journal-issue":{"issue":"10","published-print":{"date-parts":[[2025,10]]}},"alternative-id":["5802"],"URL":"https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1007\/s00421-025-05802-5","relation":{},"ISSN":["1439-6319","1439-6327"],"issn-type":[{"value":"1439-6319","type":"print"},{"value":"1439-6327","type":"electronic"}],"subject":[],"published":{"date-parts":[[2025,5,5]]},"assertion":[{"value":"5 December 2024","order":1,"name":"received","label":"Received","group":{"name":"ArticleHistory","label":"Article History"}},{"value":"14 April 2025","order":2,"name":"accepted","label":"Accepted","group":{"name":"ArticleHistory","label":"Article History"}},{"value":"5 May 2025","order":3,"name":"first_online","label":"First Online","group":{"name":"ArticleHistory","label":"Article History"}},{"order":1,"name":"Ethics","group":{"name":"EthicsHeading","label":"Declarations"}},{"value":"None of the authors declare any conflict of interest.","order":2,"name":"Ethics","group":{"name":"EthicsHeading","label":"Conflict of interest"}},{"value":"Written informed consents were collected from all participants prior to study inclusion. A local institutional ethics board approved this study, and all procedures were conducted in accordance with the declaration of Helsinki.","order":3,"name":"Ethics","group":{"name":"EthicsHeading","label":"Research involving human participants and informed consent"}}]}}