{"status":"ok","message-type":"work","message-version":"1.0.0","message":{"indexed":{"date-parts":[[2026,3,31]],"date-time":"2026-03-31T20:53:52Z","timestamp":1774990432718,"version":"3.50.1"},"reference-count":57,"publisher":"Springer Science and Business Media LLC","issue":"1","license":[{"start":{"date-parts":[[2011,8,17]],"date-time":"2011-08-17T00:00:00Z","timestamp":1313539200000},"content-version":"tdm","delay-in-days":0,"URL":"http:\/\/www.springer.com\/tdm"}],"content-domain":{"domain":[],"crossmark-restriction":false},"short-container-title":["Ocean Dynamics"],"published-print":{"date-parts":[[2012,1]]},"DOI":"10.1007\/s10236-011-0480-x","type":"journal-article","created":{"date-parts":[[2011,8,17]],"date-time":"2011-08-17T16:50:15Z","timestamp":1313599815000},"page":"123-137","source":"Crossref","is-referenced-by-count":115,"title":["Coastal vulnerability assessment based on video wave run-up observations at a mesotidal, steep-sloped beach"],"prefix":"10.1007","volume":"62","author":[{"given":"Michalis Ioannis","family":"Vousdoukas","sequence":"first","affiliation":[]},{"given":"Dagmara","family":"Wziatek","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[]},{"given":"Luis Pedro","family":"Almeida","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[]}],"member":"297","published-online":{"date-parts":[[2011,8,17]]},"reference":[{"key":"480_CR1","first-page":"547","volume":"5","author":"T Aagaard","year":"1989","unstructured":"Aagaard T, Holm D (1989) Digitization of wave runup using video records. J Coast Res 5:547\u2013551","journal-title":"J Coast Res"},{"key":"480_CR2","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"523","DOI":"10.1002\/esp.2072","volume":"36","author":"LP Almeida","year":"2010","unstructured":"Almeida LP, Ferreira \u00d3, Pacheco A (2010) Thresholds for morphological changes on an exposed sandy beach as a function of wave height. Earth Surf Proc Landforms 36:523\u2013532","journal-title":"Earth Surf Proc Landforms"},{"key":"480_CR3","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","unstructured":"Almeida LP, Ferreira \u00d3, Vousdoukas M, Dodet G (2011a) Historical variation and trends in storminess along the Portuguese south coast. Nat Hazards Earth Syst Sci. doi: 10.5194\/nhess-11-1-2011","DOI":"10.5194\/nhess-11-1-2011"},{"key":"480_CR4","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","unstructured":"Almeida LP, Vousdoukas MI, Ferreira \u00d3M, Rodrigues BA, Matias A (2011b) Thresholds for storm impacts on an exposed sandy coastal area in southern Portugal. Geomorphology. doi: 10.1016\/j.geomorph.2011.04.047","DOI":"10.1016\/j.geomorph.2011.04.047"},{"issue":"3","key":"480_CR5","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"219","DOI":"10.1016\/S0378-3839(99)00011-3","volume":"36","author":"TE Baldock","year":"1999","unstructured":"Baldock TE, Holmes P (1999) Simulation and prediction of swash oscillations on a steep beach. Coast Eng 36(3):219\u2013242","journal-title":"Coast Eng"},{"key":"480_CR6","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","unstructured":"Battjes JA (1974) Surf similarity. In: 14th Conference on Coastal Engineering. ASCE, pp 466\u2013480","DOI":"10.1061\/9780872621138.029"},{"key":"480_CR7","unstructured":"Bouguet J-Y (2007) Camera Calibration Toolbox for Matlab. http:\/\/www.vision.caltech.edu\/bouguetj\/calib_doc\/"},{"issue":"12","key":"480_CR8","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"1155","DOI":"10.1016\/j.coastaleng.2005.07.001","volume":"52","author":"R Briganti","year":"2005","unstructured":"Briganti R, Bellotti G, Franco L, De Rouck J, Geeraerts J (2005) Field measurements of wave overtopping at the rubble mound breakwater of Rome-Ostia yacht harbour. Coast Eng 52(12):1155\u20131174","journal-title":"Coast Eng"},{"key":"480_CR9","volume-title":"Beach nourishment: theory and practice. Advanced series on ocean engineering","author":"RG Dean","year":"2001","unstructured":"Dean RG (2001) Beach nourishment: theory and practice. Advanced series on ocean engineering. World Scientific, London"},{"issue":"6","key":"480_CR10","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"651","DOI":"10.1061\/(ASCE)0733-950X(1990)116:6(651)","volume":"116","author":"SL Douglass","year":"1990","unstructured":"Douglass SL (1990) Influence of wind on breaking waves. J Waterw Port Coast Ocean Eng 116(6):651\u2013663","journal-title":"J Waterw Port Coast Ocean Eng"},{"issue":"2","key":"480_CR11","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"220","DOI":"10.1061\/(ASCE)0733-950X(1992)118:2(220)","volume":"118","author":"SL Douglass","year":"1992","unstructured":"Douglass SL (1992) Estimating extreme values of run-up on beaches. J Waterw Port Coast Ocean Eng 118(2):220\u2013224","journal-title":"J Waterw Port Coast Ocean Eng"},{"key":"480_CR12","unstructured":"Erikson LH, Hanes DM, Barnard PM, Gibbs AE (2006) Swash zone characteristics at Ocean Beach, San Francisco, CA. In: 30th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, Los Angeles"},{"key":"480_CR13","unstructured":"Ferreira \u00d3, Vousdoukas MV, Ciavola P (2009) MICORE review of climate change impacts on storm occurrence (open access, Deliverable WP1.4). https:\/\/micore.eu\/area.php?idarea=28"},{"issue":"9","key":"480_CR14","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"1030","DOI":"10.1016\/j.csr.2005.12.016","volume":"26","author":"\u00d3 Ferreira","year":"2006","unstructured":"Ferreira \u00d3, Garcia T, Matias A, Taborda R, Dias JA (2006) An integrated method for the determination of set-back lines for coastal erosion hazards on sandy shores. Cont Shelf Res 26(9):1030\u20131044","journal-title":"Cont Shelf Res"},{"key":"480_CR15","volume-title":"Petrology of the sedimentary rocks","author":"RL Folk","year":"1980","unstructured":"Folk RL (1980) Petrology of the sedimentary rocks. Hemphill, Austin"},{"key":"480_CR16","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","DOI":"10.1142\/9789812385314","volume-title":"Mechanics of coastal sediment transport. Advanced series on ocean engineering","author":"JE Fredsoe","year":"1992","unstructured":"Fredsoe JE, Deigaard R (1992) Mechanics of coastal sediment transport. Advanced series on ocean engineering. World Scientific, London"},{"key":"480_CR17","volume-title":"Multiple view geometry in computer vision","author":"R Hartley","year":"2006","unstructured":"Hartley R, Zisserman A (2006) Multiple view geometry in computer vision. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge"},{"key":"480_CR18","first-page":"254","volume":"72","author":"KT Holland","year":"1991","unstructured":"Holland KT, Holman RA (1991) Measuring run-up on a natural beach II. EOS Trans Am Geophys Union 72:254","journal-title":"EOS Trans Am Geophys Union"},{"key":"480_CR19","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"10271","DOI":"10.1029\/93JC00035","volume":"87","author":"KT Holland","year":"1993","unstructured":"Holland KT, Holman RA (1993) The statistical distribution of swash maxima on natural beaches. J Geophys Res 87:10271\u201310278","journal-title":"J Geophys Res"},{"issue":"C3","key":"480_CR20","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"4985","DOI":"10.1029\/94JC02664","volume":"100","author":"KT Holland","year":"1995","unstructured":"Holland KT, Raubenheimer B, Guza RT, Holman RA (1995) Run-up kinematics on a natural beach. J Geophys Res 100(C3):4985\u20134993","journal-title":"J Geophys Res"},{"key":"480_CR21","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"527","DOI":"10.1016\/0378-3839(86)90002-5","volume":"9","author":"RA Holman","year":"1986","unstructured":"Holman RA (1986) Extreme value statistics for wave run-up on a natural beach. Coast Eng 9:527\u2013544","journal-title":"Coast Eng"},{"key":"480_CR22","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"129","DOI":"10.1016\/0378-3839(84)90008-5","volume":"8","author":"RA Holman","year":"1984","unstructured":"Holman RA, Guza RT (1984) Measuring run-up on a natural beach. Coast Eng 8:129\u2013140","journal-title":"Coast Eng"},{"issue":"6\u20137","key":"480_CR23","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"477","DOI":"10.1016\/j.coastaleng.2007.01.003","volume":"54","author":"RA Holman","year":"2007","unstructured":"Holman RA, Stanley J (2007) The history and technical capabilities of Argus. Coast Eng 54(6\u20137):477\u2013491","journal-title":"Coast Eng"},{"issue":"WW3","key":"480_CR24","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"123","DOI":"10.1061\/JWHEAU.0000129","volume":"85","author":"IA Hunt","year":"1959","unstructured":"Hunt IA (1959) Design of seawalls and breakwaters. J Waterw Harb Div ASCE 85(WW3):123\u2013152","journal-title":"J Waterw Harb Div ASCE"},{"key":"480_CR25","unstructured":"Iribarren CR, Nogales C (1949) Protection des Ports. In: XVIIth International Navigation Congress, Lisbon, Portugal"},{"key":"480_CR26","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","unstructured":"Karambas TV, Koutitas C (2002) Surf and swash zone morphology evolution induced by nonlinear waves. J Waterw Port Coast Ocean Eng 128(3)","DOI":"10.1061\/(ASCE)0733-950X(2002)128:3(102)"},{"key":"480_CR27","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"1076","DOI":"10.1111\/j.1365-246X.2007.03531.x","volume":"170","author":"DG Korycansky","year":"2007","unstructured":"Korycansky DG, Lynett PJ (2007) Run-up from impact tsunami. Geophys J Int 170:1076\u20131088","journal-title":"Geophys J Int"},{"issue":"6\u20137","key":"480_CR28","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"493","DOI":"10.1016\/j.coastaleng.2007.01.004","volume":"54","author":"A Kroon","year":"2007","unstructured":"Kroon A, Davidson MA, Aarninkhof SGJ, Archetti R, Armaroli C, Gonzalez M, Medri S, Osorio A, Aagaard T, Holman RA, Spanhoff R (2007) Application of remote sensing video systems to coastline management problems. Coast Eng 54(6\u20137):493\u2013505","journal-title":"Coast Eng"},{"issue":"1\u20134","key":"480_CR29","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"61","DOI":"10.1016\/j.margeo.2004.08.004","volume":"212","author":"M Larson","year":"2004","unstructured":"Larson M, Kubota S, Erikson L (2004) Swash-zone sediment transport and foreshore evolution: field experiments and mathematical modeling. Mar Geol 212(1\u20134):61\u201379","journal-title":"Mar Geol"},{"key":"480_CR30","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"239","DOI":"10.1017\/S002211209700846X","volume":"359","author":"P Lin","year":"1998","unstructured":"Lin P, Liu PL-F (1998) A numerical study of breaking waves in the surf zone. J Fluid Mech 359:239\u2013264","journal-title":"J Fluid Mech"},{"issue":"1\u20134","key":"480_CR31","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"113","DOI":"10.1016\/j.margeo.2005.03.019","volume":"218","author":"JH MacMahan","year":"2005","unstructured":"MacMahan JH, Thornton EB, Stanton TP, Reniers AJHM (2005) RIPEX: observations of a rip current system. Mar Geol 218(1\u20134):113\u2013134. doi: 10.1016\/j.margeo.2005.03.019","journal-title":"Mar Geol"},{"issue":"2\u20133","key":"480_CR32","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"191","DOI":"10.1016\/j.coastaleng.2005.10.009","volume":"53","author":"JH MacMahan","year":"2006","unstructured":"MacMahan JH, Thornton EB, Reniers AJHM (2006) Rip current review. Coast Eng 53(2\u20133):191\u2013208","journal-title":"Coast Eng"},{"key":"480_CR33","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"175","DOI":"10.1016\/0378-3839(88)90004-X","volume":"12","author":"H Mase","year":"1988","unstructured":"Mase H (1988) Spectral characteristics of random wave run-up. Coast Eng 12:175\u2013189","journal-title":"Coast Eng"},{"issue":"1\u20134","key":"480_CR34","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"115","DOI":"10.1016\/S0025-3227(97)00121-7","volume":"146","author":"G Masselink","year":"1998","unstructured":"Masselink G (1998) The effect of sea breeze on beach morphology, surf zone hydrodynamics and sediment resuspension. Mar Geol 146(1\u20134):115\u2013135","journal-title":"Mar Geol"},{"key":"480_CR35","unstructured":"Mei CC (1994) The applied dynamics of ocean surface waves. In: Advanced series on ocean engineering, vol. 1. World Scientific, London"},{"issue":"2","key":"480_CR36","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"143","DOI":"10.1016\/S0378-3839(00)00054-5","volume":"42","author":"JJ Munoz-Perez","year":"2001","unstructured":"Munoz-Perez JJ, de San L, Roman-Blanco B, Gutierrez-Mas JM, Moreno L, Cuena GJ (2001) Cost of beach maintenance in the Gulf of Cadiz (SW Spain). Coast Eng 42(2):143\u2013153","journal-title":"Coast Eng"},{"key":"480_CR37","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"62","DOI":"10.1109\/TSMC.1979.4310076","volume":"9","author":"N Otsu","year":"1979","unstructured":"Otsu N (1979) A threshold selection method from gray-level histograms. IEEE Trans Syst Man Cybern 9:62\u201366","journal-title":"IEEE Trans Syst Man Cybern"},{"issue":"4","key":"480_CR38","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"900","DOI":"10.2112\/08-1029.1","volume":"25","author":"NS Pearre","year":"2009","unstructured":"Pearre NS, Puleo JA (2009) Quantifying seasonal shoreline variability at Rehoboth Beach, Delaware, using automated imaging techniques. J Coast Res 25(4):900\u2013914","journal-title":"J Coast Res"},{"key":"480_CR39","volume-title":"Preliminary report on the wave climate at Faro. Project India","author":"HO Pires","year":"1998","unstructured":"Pires HO (1998) Preliminary report on the wave climate at Faro. Project India. Instituto de Meteorologia\u2013Instituto Superior T\u00e9cnico, Portugal"},{"key":"480_CR40","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"25575","DOI":"10.1029\/96JC02432","volume":"101","author":"B Raubenheimer","year":"1996","unstructured":"Raubenheimer B, Guza RT (1996) Observations and predictions of runup. J Geophys Res 101:25575\u201325587","journal-title":"J Geophys Res"},{"key":"480_CR41","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"3111","DOI":"10.1029\/97JC02791","volume":"103","author":"BK Ruessink","year":"1998","unstructured":"Ruessink BK, Kleinhans MG, van den Beukel PGL (1998) Observations of swash under highly dissipative conditions. J Geophys Res 103:3111\u20133118","journal-title":"J Geophys Res"},{"issue":"2","key":"480_CR42","first-page":"407","volume":"17","author":"P Ruggiero","year":"2001","unstructured":"Ruggiero P, Komar PD, McDougal WG, Marra JJ, Beach RA (2001) Wave runup, extreme water levels and the erosion of properties backing beaches. J Coast Res 17(2):407\u2013419","journal-title":"J Coast Res"},{"key":"480_CR43","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","unstructured":"Ruggiero P, Holman RA, Beach RA (2004) Wave run-up on a high-energy dissipative beach. J Geophys Res 109(C06025). doi: 10.1029\/2003JC002160","DOI":"10.1029\/2003JC002160"},{"key":"480_CR44","first-page":"890","volume":"16","author":"AH Sallenger","year":"2000","unstructured":"Sallenger AH (2000) Storm impact scale for barrier islands. J Coast Res 16:890\u2013895","journal-title":"J Coast Res"},{"key":"480_CR45","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"185","DOI":"10.1016\/0378-3839(93)90001-O","volume":"20","author":"HA Schaffer","year":"1993","unstructured":"Schaffer HA, Madsen PA, Deigaard R (1993) A Boussinesq model for waves breaking in shallow water. Coast Eng 20:185\u2013202","journal-title":"Coast Eng"},{"issue":"4","key":"480_CR46","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"892","DOI":"10.2112\/04-0287.1","volume":"23","author":"KR Smith","year":"2007","unstructured":"Smith KR, Bryan KR (2007) Monitoring beach volume using a combination of intermittent profiling and video imagery. J Coast Res 23(4):892\u2013898","journal-title":"J Coast Res"},{"issue":"7","key":"480_CR47","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"573","DOI":"10.1016\/j.coastaleng.2005.12.005","volume":"53","author":"HF Stockdon","year":"2006","unstructured":"Stockdon HF, Holman RA, Howd PA, Sallenger JAH (2006) Empirical parameterization of setup, swash, and runup. Coast Eng 53(7):573\u2013588","journal-title":"Coast Eng"},{"key":"480_CR48","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"523","DOI":"10.1017\/S002211208700329X","volume":"185","author":"CE Synolakis","year":"1987","unstructured":"Synolakis CE (1987) The run-up of solitary waves. J Fluid Mech 185:523\u2013555","journal-title":"J Fluid Mech"},{"issue":"3\u20134","key":"480_CR49","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"177","DOI":"10.1016\/0378-3839(94)00036-W","volume":"24","author":"FCK Ting","year":"1995","unstructured":"Ting FCK, Kirby JT (1995) Dynamics of surf-zone turbulence in a strong plunging breaker. Coast Eng 24(3\u20134):177\u2013204","journal-title":"Coast Eng"},{"key":"480_CR50","volume-title":"Coastal engineering manual. Engineer manual 1110-2-1100 (in 6 volumes)","author":"US Army Corps of Engineers","year":"2002","unstructured":"US Army Corps of Engineers (2002) Coastal engineering manual. Engineer manual 1110-2-1100 (in 6 volumes). US Army Corps of Engineers, Washington, DC"},{"issue":"2\u20134","key":"480_CR51","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"93","DOI":"10.1016\/S0378-3839(99)00058-7","volume":"39","author":"J Veeramony","year":"2000","unstructured":"Veeramony J, Svendsen IA (2000) The flow in surf-zone waves. Coast Eng 39(2\u20134):93\u2013122","journal-title":"Coast Eng"},{"key":"480_CR52","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"369","DOI":"10.1016\/j.coastaleng.2006.11.001","volume":"54","author":"AF Velegrakis","year":"2007","unstructured":"Velegrakis AF, Vousdoukas MI, Vagenas AM, Karambas T, Dimou K, Zarkadas T (2007) Field observations of waves generated by passing ships: a note. Coast Eng 54:369\u2013375","journal-title":"Coast Eng"},{"issue":"Supplement 1","key":"480_CR53","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"S37","DOI":"10.1016\/j.jmarsys.2009.01.009","volume":"78","author":"MI Vousdoukas","year":"2009","unstructured":"Vousdoukas MI, Velegrakis AF, Dimou K, Zervakis V, Conley DC (2009a) Wave run-up observations in microtidal, sediment-starved pocket beaches of the Eastern Mediterranean. J Mar Syst 78(Supplement 1):S37\u2013S47","journal-title":"J Mar Syst"},{"issue":"16","key":"480_CR54","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"1937","DOI":"10.1016\/j.csr.2009.04.003","volume":"29","author":"MI Vousdoukas","year":"2009","unstructured":"Vousdoukas MI, Velegrakis AF, Karambas TV (2009b) Morphology and sedimentology of a microtidal, beachrock-infected beach: Vatera Beach, Lesvos, NE Mediterranean. Cont Shelf Res 29(16):1937\u20131947","journal-title":"Cont Shelf Res"},{"key":"480_CR55","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","unstructured":"Vousdoukas MI, Ferreira PM, Almeida LP, Dodet G, Andriolo U, Psaros F, Taborda R, Silva AN, Ruano AE, Ferreira \u00d3 (2011) Performance of intertidal topography video monitoring of a meso-tidal reflective beach in South Portugal. Ocean Dyn. doi: 10.1007\/s10236-011-0440-5","DOI":"10.1007\/s10236-011-0440-5"},{"issue":"1\u20134","key":"480_CR56","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"93","DOI":"10.1016\/0025-3227(84)90008-2","volume":"56","author":"LD Wright","year":"1984","unstructured":"Wright LD, Short AD (1984) Morphodynamic variability of surf zones and beaches: a synthesis. Mar Geol 56(1\u20134):93\u2013118","journal-title":"Mar Geol"},{"issue":"4","key":"480_CR57","first-page":"909","volume":"17","author":"C Xue","year":"2001","unstructured":"Xue C (2001) Coastal erosion and management of Majuro Atoll, Marshall Islands. J Coast Res 17(4):909\u2013918","journal-title":"J Coast Res"}],"container-title":["Ocean Dynamics"],"original-title":[],"language":"en","link":[{"URL":"http:\/\/link.springer.com\/content\/pdf\/10.1007\/s10236-011-0480-x.pdf","content-type":"application\/pdf","content-version":"vor","intended-application":"text-mining"},{"URL":"http:\/\/link.springer.com\/article\/10.1007\/s10236-011-0480-x\/fulltext.html","content-type":"text\/html","content-version":"vor","intended-application":"text-mining"},{"URL":"http:\/\/link.springer.com\/content\/pdf\/10.1007\/s10236-011-0480-x","content-type":"unspecified","content-version":"vor","intended-application":"similarity-checking"}],"deposited":{"date-parts":[[2021,11,30]],"date-time":"2021-11-30T23:49:34Z","timestamp":1638316174000},"score":1,"resource":{"primary":{"URL":"http:\/\/link.springer.com\/10.1007\/s10236-011-0480-x"}},"subtitle":[],"short-title":[],"issued":{"date-parts":[[2011,8,17]]},"references-count":57,"journal-issue":{"issue":"1","published-print":{"date-parts":[[2012,1]]}},"alternative-id":["480"],"URL":"https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1007\/s10236-011-0480-x","relation":{},"ISSN":["1616-7341","1616-7228"],"issn-type":[{"value":"1616-7341","type":"print"},{"value":"1616-7228","type":"electronic"}],"subject":[],"published":{"date-parts":[[2011,8,17]]}}}