{"status":"ok","message-type":"work","message-version":"1.0.0","message":{"indexed":{"date-parts":[[2025,6,18]],"date-time":"2025-06-18T10:26:28Z","timestamp":1750242388825,"version":"3.37.3"},"reference-count":31,"publisher":"Oxford University Press (OUP)","issue":"1","license":[{"start":{"date-parts":[[2014,11,12]],"date-time":"2014-11-12T00:00:00Z","timestamp":1415750400000},"content-version":"unspecified","delay-in-days":0,"URL":"https:\/\/www.cambridge.org\/core\/terms"}],"content-domain":{"domain":[],"crossmark-restriction":false},"short-container-title":["Microsc Microanal"],"published-print":{"date-parts":[[2015,2]]},"abstract":"<jats:title>Abstract<\/jats:title><jats:p>A 16th century liturgical cope belonging to D. Teot\u00f3nio of Braganza (collection of the Museum of \u00c9vora, ME 172\/1) was selected for a material study. The cope is made of a variety of materials that include two different types of metal threads, dyed silk yarns, and vegetable yarns used in the weft. Several samples from different points representing the different metal thread types and colored silk yarns were collected. Stereomicroscopy (optical microscopy) and scanning electron microscopy were used for morphological analysis of the textile fibers and evaluation of metal thread degradation products. Evaluation of mordants and metal thread composition was carried out by energy-dispersive X-ray spectroscopy. Liquid chromatography with diode array and mass spectrometry detection was used for dye identification, which allowed the determination of three different red dye sources and one yellow dye source in the colored silk yarns. Although different fabrics were used in the manufacturing of the cope, similarities identified in the characterization of the materials suggest that a single workshop was involved in its making.<\/jats:p>","DOI":"10.1017\/s1431927614013440","type":"journal-article","created":{"date-parts":[[2014,11,12]],"date-time":"2014-11-12T14:48:03Z","timestamp":1415803683000},"page":"2-14","source":"Crossref","is-referenced-by-count":6,"title":["The Liturgical Cope of D. Teot\u00f3nio of Braganza: Material Characterization of a 16th Century<i>Pluviale<\/i>"],"prefix":"10.1093","volume":"21","author":[{"given":"Teresa","family":"Ferreira","sequence":"first","affiliation":[]},{"given":"Hugo","family":"Moreiras","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[]},{"ORCID":"https:\/\/orcid.org\/0000-0002-6350-9408","authenticated-orcid":false,"given":"Ana","family":"Manhita","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[]},{"given":"Paula","family":"Tomaz","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[]},{"given":"Jos\u00e9","family":"Mir\u00e3o","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[]},{"given":"Cristina B.","family":"Dias","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[]},{"given":"Ana T.","family":"Caldeira","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[]}],"member":"286","published-online":{"date-parts":[[2014,11,12]]},"reference":[{"volume-title":"Natural Dyes: Sources, Tradition, Technology and Science","year":"2007","author":"Cardon","key":"S1431927614013440_ref1"},{"key":"S1431927614013440_ref26","first-page":"32","article-title":"Identification of natural dyes in historical coptic textiles from the National Archaeological Museum of Spain","volume":"15","author":"Rodr\u00edguez","year":"2010","journal-title":"e-Conservation"},{"key":"S1431927614013440_ref23","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1007\/s00604-007-0866-0"},{"key":"S1431927614013440_ref19","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1016\/j.culher.2012.10.016"},{"key":"S1431927614013440_ref18","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"109","DOI":"10.1179\/sic.1998.43.2.109","article-title":"A note on the characterization of metal threads in historic textiles handed down by the Ainu people","volume":"43","author":"Kohara","year":"1998","journal-title":"Stud Conserv"},{"key":"S1431927614013440_ref13","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.2307\/1506667"},{"key":"S1431927614013440_ref11","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1007\/978-94-010-0193-9_15"},{"key":"S1431927614013440_ref12","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1007\/BF03214711"},{"key":"S1431927614013440_ref7","first-page":"415","volume-title":"Metal 04: Proceedings of the International Conference on Metals Conservation","author":"Hacke","year":"2004"},{"key":"S1431927614013440_ref4","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1039\/b305697j"},{"key":"S1431927614013440_ref3","first-page":"137","article-title":"Nova miscel\u00e2nea: D. 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