{"status":"ok","message-type":"work","message-version":"1.0.0","message":{"indexed":{"date-parts":[[2026,10,4]],"date-time":"2026-10-04T12:48:32Z","timestamp":1791118112256,"version":"4.1.0"},"reference-count":32,"publisher":"Wiley","issue":"4","license":[{"start":{"date-parts":[[2014,6,12]],"date-time":"2014-06-12T00:00:00Z","timestamp":1402531200000},"content-version":"vor","delay-in-days":0,"URL":"http:\/\/onlinelibrary.wiley.com\/termsAndConditions#vor"}],"funder":[{"DOI":"10.13039\/100000001","name":"National Science Foundation","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","award":["NSF-CTS-01-32364"],"award-info":[{"award-number":["NSF-CTS-01-32364"]}],"id":[{"id":"10.13039\/100000001","id-type":"DOI","asserted-by":"publisher"}]},{"name":"Unilever Research and Development"}],"content-domain":{"domain":[],"crossmark-restriction":false},"short-container-title":["Intern J of Cosmetic Sci"],"published-print":{"date-parts":[[2014,8]]},"abstract":"Synopsis<\/jats:title>\n \n Objective<\/jats:title>\n \n Stratum corneum (\n SC<\/jats:styled-content>\n ) lipids are known to play an important role in barrier properties of skin by maintaining the optimal hydration levels. The disruption of\n SC<\/jats:styled-content>\n lipids by cleanser surfactants is believed to lead to dry skin damage which can be a precursor to other skin disorders. The purpose of this study is to investigate the effects of commonly used anionic and zwitterionic surfactants sodium lauryl ether sulphate (\n SLES<\/jats:styled-content>\n ) and cocoamidopropyl betaine (\n CAPB<\/jats:styled-content>\n ) on the generation of drying stresses in\n SC<\/jats:styled-content>\n and the role played by lipids.\n <\/jats:p>\n <\/jats:sec>\n \n Methods<\/jats:title>\n \n Stratum corneum separated from pig skin was treated with various surfactants (\n SDS<\/jats:styled-content>\n ,\n SLES<\/jats:styled-content>\n and\n CAPB<\/jats:styled-content>\n ) their mixtures and solvents. The tensile response to these treatments was measured by using a dynamic mechanical thermal analyzer. A Raman spectroscopy study of the treated samples was performed to investigate the effects of lipid modification (lipid chain conformational order and lipid removal) on stress generation in\n SC<\/jats:styled-content>\n .\n <\/jats:p>\n <\/jats:sec>\n \n Results<\/jats:title>\n \n The effects of commonly used anionic and zwitterionic surfactants on the generation of drying stresses in\n SC<\/jats:styled-content>\n were studied. Although known to be milder in comparison with\n SDS<\/jats:styled-content>\n , both\n SLES<\/jats:styled-content>\n and\n CAPB<\/jats:styled-content>\n generated high drying stresses individually. In mixtures,\n SLES<\/jats:styled-content>\n \u2013\n CAPB<\/jats:styled-content>\n at 4\u00a0:\u00a01 ratio leads to lower drying stress as compared to water alone. A Raman spectroscopic study of surfactant\u2010treated\n SC<\/jats:styled-content>\n shows changes in lipid chain conformational order as well as a decrease in lipid\u2013protein ratio in\n SC<\/jats:styled-content>\n . A chloroform\u2013methanol 2\u00a0:\u00a01 treatment leads to the highest drying stress as well delipidization of\n SC<\/jats:styled-content>\n .\n <\/jats:p>\n <\/jats:sec>\n \n Conclusion<\/jats:title>\n \n The results show a correlation between generation of drying stress in\n SC<\/jats:styled-content>\n and extent of lipid modification. We propose that the changes in lipid conformational order and removal of lipid components affect the stress relaxation properties of\n SC<\/jats:styled-content>\n leading to high drying stresses.\n <\/jats:p>\n <\/jats:sec>","DOI":"10.1111\/ics.12139","type":"journal-article","created":{"date-parts":[[2014,5,14]],"date-time":"2014-05-14T06:58:44Z","timestamp":1400050724000},"page":"379-385","source":"Crossref","is-referenced-by-count":20,"title":["Effect of mixed surfactants on stratum corneum: a drying stress and\n R<\/scp>\n aman spectroscopy study"],"prefix":"10.1111","volume":"36","author":[{"given":"P.","family":"Purohit","sequence":"first","affiliation":[{"name":"NSF Industry\/University Cooperative Research Center for Advanced Studies in Novel Surfactants Columbia University New York NY 10027 U.S.A"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"given":"P.","family":"Chandar","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Unilever, Research and Development 40 Merritt Boulevard Trumbull CT 06611 U.S.A"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"given":"A.","family":"Vilinska","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"NSF Industry\/University Cooperative Research Center for Advanced Studies in Novel Surfactants Columbia University New York NY 10027 U.S.A"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"given":"K. P.","family":"Ananthapadmanabhan","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Unilever, Research and Development 40 Merritt Boulevard Trumbull CT 06611 U.S.A"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"given":"P.","family":"Somasundaran","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"NSF Industry\/University Cooperative Research Center for Advanced Studies in Novel Surfactants Columbia University New York NY 10027 U.S.A"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]}],"member":"311","published-online":{"date-parts":[[2014,6,12]]},"reference":[{"key":"e_1_2_5_2_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1111\/j.1396-0296.2004.04S1001.x"},{"key":"e_1_2_5_3_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1038\/jid.1983.12"},{"key":"e_1_2_5_4_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1007\/BF02640737"},{"key":"e_1_2_5_5_1","first-page":"125","article-title":"Surfactant structure effects on swelling of isolated human stratum corneum","volume":"37","author":"Rhein L.D.","year":"1986","journal-title":"J. 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