{"status":"ok","message-type":"work","message-version":"1.0.0","message":{"indexed":{"date-parts":[[2026,8,28]],"date-time":"2026-08-28T01:18:14Z","timestamp":1787879894573,"version":"build-2784847793"},"reference-count":70,"publisher":"Wiley","issue":"2","license":[{"start":{"date-parts":[[2015,1,21]],"date-time":"2015-01-21T00:00:00Z","timestamp":1421798400000},"content-version":"vor","delay-in-days":0,"URL":"http:\/\/onlinelibrary.wiley.com\/termsAndConditions#vor"}],"funder":[{"name":"DSM Nutritional Products Ltd."}],"content-domain":{"domain":[],"crossmark-restriction":false},"short-container-title":["Intern J of Cosmetic Sci"],"published-print":{"date-parts":[[2015,4]]},"abstract":"Synopsis<\/jats:title>Objective<\/jats:title>Hypotheses have been developed for the evolutionary selection of skin pigmentation one of which relates to improved skin barrier function. The aim of this study was to compare facial skin condition on photoexposed (cheek) and photoprotected (post\u2010auricular) sites of naturally pigmented subjects of different ethnicities (F<\/jats:styled-content>itzpatrick skin phototypes II<\/jats:styled-content>\/III<\/jats:styled-content> and V<\/jats:styled-content>\/VI<\/jats:styled-content>) and A<\/jats:styled-content>lbino A<\/jats:styled-content>frican subjects to understand better the relationship between facial stratum corneum (SC<\/jats:styled-content>) barrier function, skin surface pH<\/jats:styled-content> and skin pigmentation.<\/jats:p><\/jats:sec>Methods<\/jats:title>Expert grading of skin conditions, capacitance, skin surface pH<\/jats:styled-content> and skin barrier function measurements were performed. For the latter, transepidermal water loss (TEWL<\/jats:styled-content>) measurements before (basal TEWL<\/jats:styled-content>), after 3, 6 and 9 consecutive tape strippings (SC<\/jats:styled-content> integrity) and 3.5 and 24\u00a0h post tape stripping (barrier recovery) were taken. Amounts of SC<\/jats:styled-content> protein removed during stripping were estimated using infrared densitometry (SC<\/jats:styled-content> cohesion).<\/jats:p><\/jats:sec>Results<\/jats:title>Firstly, correlation analysis of the biometric data of the B<\/jats:styled-content>lack A<\/jats:styled-content>frican and C<\/jats:styled-content>aucasian subjects showed there to be no relationship between skin surface pH<\/jats:styled-content> and ITA<\/jats:styled-content>\u00b0 values nor pH<\/jats:styled-content> and ITA<\/jats:styled-content>\u00b0 with\u00a0basal TEWL<\/jats:styled-content>. Neither skin surface pH<\/jats:styled-content> nor ITA<\/jats:styled-content>\u00b0 correlated with SC integrity and barrier recovery measurements, but skin surface pH<\/jats:styled-content> correlated with SC<\/jats:styled-content> cohesion. ITA<\/jats:styled-content>\u00b0 values were correlated with skin hydration. Secondly, on comparing the three ethnic groups, severe skin photodamage was observed in the A<\/jats:styled-content>lbino A<\/jats:styled-content>frican subjects and their SC<\/jats:styled-content> was thicker. Whereas their basal TEWL<\/jats:styled-content> was elevated, superior values for SC<\/jats:styled-content> integrity and barrier recovery were measured. No differences in basal TEWL<\/jats:styled-content>, SC<\/jats:styled-content> integrity and barrier recovery were found between the other two subject groups. Equally, SC<\/jats:styled-content> cohesion and skin surface pH<\/jats:styled-content> values were similar among the three groups.<\/jats:p><\/jats:sec>Conclusion<\/jats:title>There was no relationship between ITA<\/jats:styled-content>\u00b0 values and basal TEWL<\/jats:styled-content>, SC integrity, SC cohesion and barrier recovery, but ITA<\/jats:styled-content>\u00b0 was correlated with skin hydration. Skin surface pH<\/jats:styled-content>, irrespective of ITA<\/jats:styled-content>\u00b0 values, correlated with SC<\/jats:styled-content> cohesion, indicating a greater intracorneal cohesion at lower pH<\/jats:styled-content> values. Thus, pigmentation has no effect on SC barrier properties but was related to skin hydration. On comparing the three ethnic groups, A<\/jats:styled-content>lbino A<\/jats:styled-content>frican SC<\/jats:styled-content> was found to be superior to the C<\/jats:styled-content>aucasian and B<\/jats:styled-content>lack A<\/jats:styled-content>frican subjects in terms of SC<\/jats:styled-content> integrity and barrier recovery but not basal TEWL<\/jats:styled-content>. The A<\/jats:styled-content>lbino African subjects also have a thicker SC<\/jats:styled-content> which contributes to their better SC<\/jats:styled-content> integrity. No differences in skin barrier functionality or skin surface pH<\/jats:styled-content> were observed for the other two groups. Skin hydration was, however, greatest in the B<\/jats:styled-content>lack A<\/jats:styled-content>frican subjects. Our data support the evolutionary hypothesis that pigmentation protects the skin from UV<\/jats:styled-content> irradiation and thereby the skin barrier but not the skin pigmentation\u2010\/pH<\/jats:styled-content>\u2010driven adaptive skin barrier hypothesis.<\/jats:p><\/jats:sec>","DOI":"10.1111\/ics.12189","type":"journal-article","created":{"date-parts":[[2014,12,9]],"date-time":"2014-12-09T02:24:29Z","timestamp":1418091869000},"page":"241-252","source":"Crossref","is-referenced-by-count":24,"title":["Facial skin pigmentation is not related to stratum corneum cohesion, basal transepidermal water loss, barrier integrity and barrier repair"],"prefix":"10.1111","volume":"37","author":[{"given":"R.","family":"Voegeli","sequence":"first","affiliation":[{"name":"DSM Nutritional Products Ltd. PO Box 2676 Bldg. 203.4\/86 4002 Basel Switzerland"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"given":"A. 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