{"status":"ok","message-type":"work","message-version":"1.0.0","message":{"indexed":{"date-parts":[[2026,9,29]],"date-time":"2026-09-29T20:25:36Z","timestamp":1790713536826,"version":"4.1.0"},"reference-count":46,"publisher":"Wiley","issue":"3","license":[{"start":{"date-parts":[[2019,6,24]],"date-time":"2019-06-24T00:00:00Z","timestamp":1561334400000},"content-version":"vor","delay-in-days":23,"URL":"http:\/\/onlinelibrary.wiley.com\/termsAndConditions#vor"}],"content-domain":{"domain":["onlinelibrary.wiley.com"],"crossmark-restriction":true},"short-container-title":["Intern J of Cosmetic Sci"],"published-print":{"date-parts":[[2019,6]]},"abstract":"<jats:title>Abstract<\/jats:title><jats:sec><jats:title>Objective<\/jats:title><jats:p>The aim of the study was <jats:italic>in vitro<\/jats:italic> and <jats:italic>in vivo<\/jats:italic> characterization of cosmetic cream with 6% of standardized wild apple fruit extract, stabilized by conventional non\u2010ionic emulsifier\u2010CEW, in order to determine the influence of emulsifiers (conventional vs. biodegradable) on the characteristics of creams and their effects on the skin.<\/jats:p><\/jats:sec><jats:sec><jats:title>Methods<\/jats:title><jats:p>Organoleptic and physico\u2010chemical (pH values and electrical conductivity) analysis was performed, determination of fruit acids\u2010FAs content (using HPLC analysis) and estimation of its antioxidant activity\u2010AA (using DPPH test) during 180\u00a0days. <jats:italic>In vivo<\/jats:italic> study included following examinations: screening of safety profile (after creams application under occlusion during 24\u00a0h at human skin); skin moisturizing potential, transepidermal water loss\u2010TEWL, skin pH after 28\u00a0days of cream application and hypopigmentation efficacy 7\u00a0days of cream application at artificially induced skin hyperpigmentation.<\/jats:p><\/jats:sec><jats:sec><jats:title>Results<\/jats:title><jats:p>Investigated cosmetic cream\u2010CEW showed satisfactory organoleptic, physico\u2010chemical characteristics, stability, FAs content (0.13%) and AA (19.25\u00a0\u00b1\u00a00.67 %RSC) after preparation, which remained unchanged over the study period. <jats:italic>In vivo<\/jats:italic> investigation revealed absence of skin irritation after CEW's application under occlusion. An increase of skin moisturization (after 14\u00a0days \u0394EC was 18.52\u00a0\u00b1\u00a011.51 and after 28\u00a0days of applications 16.52\u00a0\u00b1\u00a09.36) during 28\u00a0day\u2010study, with unchanged TEWL and skin pH values was shown. Decrease of melanin index was revealed, too (after 7\u00a0days \u0394MI was \u221231.40\u00a0\u00b1\u00a016.50).<\/jats:p><\/jats:sec><jats:sec><jats:title>Conclusion<\/jats:title><jats:p>Cosmetic cream stabilized by conventional emulsifier showed better antioxidant potential and weaker moisturizing and hypopigmentation effects related to the cream with same composition but stabilized by biodegradable emulsifiers. Based on all mentioned above, investigated cosmetic cream might be considered for potential use as modern, stable, safe and efficient cosmetic product in the prevention and\/or treatment of oxidative stress\u2010related skin changes and\/or damages, for moisturization of dry, even irritated skin as well as for lightening of hyperpigmented skin.<\/jats:p><\/jats:sec><jats:sec><jats:title>R\u00e9sum\u00e9<\/jats:title><jats:sec><jats:title>OBJECTIF<\/jats:title><jats:p>Le but de l\u2019\u00e9tude \u00e9tait la caract\u00e9risation <jats:italic>in vitro<\/jats:italic> et <jats:italic>in vivo<\/jats:italic> d'une cr\u00e8me cosm\u00e9tique contenant 6\u00a0% d'extrait normalis\u00e9 de pomme sauvage, stabilis\u00e9e par un \u00e9mulsifiant non ionique conventionnel\u2010CEW, afin de d\u00e9terminer l'influence des \u00e9mulsifiants (conventionnels vs biod\u00e9gradables) sur les caract\u00e9ristiques des cr\u00e8mes et les effets sur la peau.<\/jats:p><\/jats:sec><\/jats:sec><jats:sec><jats:title>M\u00c9THODES<\/jats:title><jats:p>Des analyses organoleptiques et physico\u2010chimiques (pH et conductivit\u00e9 \u00e9lectrique) ont \u00e9t\u00e9 effectu\u00e9es, la d\u00e9termination de la teneur en acides de fruits et en acides gras polyinsatur\u00e9s (par CLHP), et l'estimation de sa teneur en activit\u00e9 antioxydante (AA) (\u00e0 l'aide du test DPPH) pendant 180\u00a0jours. <jats:italic>L\u2019\u00e9tude in vivo<\/jats:italic> comprenait les examens suivants\u00a0: d\u00e9pistage du profil d'innocuit\u00e9 (apr\u00e8s application de cr\u00e8mes sous occlusion pendant 24\u00a0h sur la peau humaine); potentiel d'hydratation de la peau, perte d'eau trans\u00e9pidermique (PETE), pH de la peau apr\u00e8s 28\u00a0jours d'application de la cr\u00e8me et efficacit\u00e9 de l'hypopigmentation apr\u00e8s 7\u00a0jours d'application de la cr\u00e8me sur une hyperpigmentation de la peau induite artificiellement.<\/jats:p><\/jats:sec><jats:sec><jats:title>R\u00c9SULTATS<\/jats:title><jats:p>La cr\u00e8me cosm\u00e9tique\u2010CEW \u00e9tudi\u00e9e a montr\u00e9 des caract\u00e9ristiques organoleptiques, physico\u2010chimiques, une stabilit\u00e9, une teneur en AG (0,13\u00a0%) et en AA (19,25 \u00b1 0,67\u00a0% RSC) satisfaisantes apr\u00e8s pr\u00e9paration, qui sont demeur\u00e9es inchang\u00e9es au cours de la p\u00e9riode de l\u2019\u00e9tude. L\u2019\u00e9tude in vivo a r\u00e9v\u00e9l\u00e9 l'absence d'irritation cutan\u00e9e apr\u00e8s l'application de CEW sous occlusion. Une augmentation de l'hydratation de la peau (apr\u00e8s 14\u00a0jours de DEC \u00e9tait de 18,52 \u00b1 11,51 et apr\u00e8s 28\u00a0jours d'applications de 16,52 \u00b1 9,36) pendant l\u2019\u00e9tude de 28\u00a0jours, avec une PETE et des valeurs de pH cutan\u00e9 inchang\u00e9es, a \u00e9t\u00e9 d\u00e9montr\u00e9e. Une diminution de l'indice de m\u00e9lanine a \u00e9t\u00e9 mise en \u00e9vidence \u00e9galement (apr\u00e8s 7\u00a0jours, \u0394MI \u00e9tait de 31,40 \u00b1 16,50).<\/jats:p><\/jats:sec><jats:sec><jats:title>CONCLUSION<\/jats:title><jats:p>La cr\u00e8me cosm\u00e9tique stabilis\u00e9e par un \u00e9mulsifiant conventionnel a montr\u00e9 un meilleur potentiel antioxydant et des effets d'hydratation et d'hypopigmentation plus faibles par rapport \u00e0 la cr\u00e8me de m\u00eame composition mais stabilis\u00e9e par des \u00e9mulsifiants biod\u00e9gradables. D'apr\u00e8s les donn\u00e9es pr\u00e9c\u00e9dentes, la cr\u00e8me cosm\u00e9tique \u00e9tudi\u00e9e pourrait \u00eatre consid\u00e9r\u00e9e comme un produit cosm\u00e9tique moderne, stable, s\u00fbr et efficace dans la pr\u00e9vention et\/ou le traitement des changements et\/ou dommages cutan\u00e9s li\u00e9s au stress oxydatif, pour l'hydratation de la peau s\u00e8che, voire irrit\u00e9e, ainsi que pour \u00e9claircir la peau hyperpigment\u00e9e.<\/jats:p><\/jats:sec>","DOI":"10.1111\/ics.12537","type":"journal-article","created":{"date-parts":[[2019,5,3]],"date-time":"2019-05-03T16:13:21Z","timestamp":1556900001000},"page":"300-310","update-policy":"https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1002\/crossmark_policy","source":"Crossref","is-referenced-by-count":10,"title":["Stability, antioxidant activity, <i>in vivo<\/i> safety and efficacy of creams with standardized wild apple fruit extract: a comparison of conventional and biodegradable emulsifiers"],"prefix":"10.1111","volume":"41","author":[{"given":"I.","family":"Ne\u0161i\u0107","sequence":"first","affiliation":[{"name":"Faculty of Medicine Department of Pharmacy University of Ni\u0161 81 Dr Zoran \u0110in\u0111i\u0107 Blvd. 18000 Ni\u0161 Serbia"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"ORCID":"https:\/\/orcid.org\/0000-0001-6275-9299","authenticated-orcid":false,"given":"D.","family":"Stojiljkovi\u0107","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Health Care Institution Pharmacy Farmakop \u2010 \u201cDr.Max\u201d 92 Nemanji\u0107 Blvd. 18000 Ni\u0161 Serbia"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"given":"S.","family":"Savi\u0107","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Faculty of Pharamacy Institute of Pharmaceutical Technology and Cosmetology University of Belgrade Vojvode Stepe 450 11221 Belgrade Serbia"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"given":"M.","family":"Tasi\u0107\u2010Kostov","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Faculty of Medicine Department of Pharmacy University of Ni\u0161 81 Dr Zoran \u0110in\u0111i\u0107 Blvd. 18000 Ni\u0161 Serbia"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"given":"V.","family":"Tadi\u0107","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Department for Pharmaceutical Research and Development Institute for Medicinal Plant Research \u201cDr Josif Pan\u010di\u0107\u201d 1 Tadeu\u0161a Ko\u0161\u0107u\u0161ka St. 11000 Belgrade Serbia"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]}],"member":"311","published-online":{"date-parts":[[2019,6,24]]},"reference":[{"key":"e_1_2_7_2_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.3390\/molecules17010275"},{"key":"e_1_2_7_3_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1016\/j.phanu.2013.05.001"},{"key":"e_1_2_7_4_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1002\/ptr.5356"},{"key":"e_1_2_7_5_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1111\/ics.12462"},{"key":"e_1_2_7_6_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1016\/j.indcrop.2015.11.023"},{"key":"e_1_2_7_7_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1016\/j.jfca.2014.05.004"},{"key":"e_1_2_7_8_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1016\/j.indcrop.2013.11.027"},{"key":"e_1_2_7_9_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1111\/j.1468-2494.2012.00732.x"},{"key":"e_1_2_7_10_1","first-page":"187","article-title":"Oil extracts of wild apple fruit as active substances in UV protection preparations","volume":"1","author":"Stojiljkovi\u0107 D.","year":"2016","journal-title":"Radiat. 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