{"status":"ok","message-type":"work","message-version":"1.0.0","message":{"indexed":{"date-parts":[[2026,9,23]],"date-time":"2026-09-23T05:21:53Z","timestamp":1790140913741,"version":"4.0.1"},"reference-count":25,"publisher":"Wiley","issue":"3","license":[{"start":{"date-parts":[[2019,6,24]],"date-time":"2019-06-24T00:00:00Z","timestamp":1561334400000},"content-version":"vor","delay-in-days":23,"URL":"http:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-nc\/4.0\/"}],"content-domain":{"domain":["onlinelibrary.wiley.com"],"crossmark-restriction":true},"short-container-title":["Intern J of Cosmetic Sci"],"published-print":{"date-parts":[[2019,6]]},"abstract":"<jats:title>Abstract<\/jats:title><jats:sec><jats:title>Objective<\/jats:title><jats:p>The Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of sunscreen products is derived from testing <jats:italic>in vivo<\/jats:italic> their ability to prevent erythema (\u201csunburn\u201d). Recently, certain articles have raised concerns that sunscreen products may actively suppress erythema via anti\u2010inflammatory \/ anti\u2010oxidant (AI\/AO) activity. These articles reason that this may result in a higher labelled SPF value than that provided by the efficacy of the UVR filters alone, giving consumers a \u201cfalse sense of security\u201d. On the other hand, since inflammatory processes are known to play a role in the mechanisms of photodamage \/ skin cancer induction and propagation, AI\/AO activity may provide valuable incremental photoprotective benefit (provided that there is no interference with visible erythema). The objective of these studies, therefore, was to investigate the potential of AI\/AO ingredients to suppress UVR\u2010induced erythemal response in human skin, <jats:italic>in vivo<\/jats:italic>.<\/jats:p><\/jats:sec><jats:sec><jats:title>Methods<\/jats:title><jats:p><jats:italic>In vivo<\/jats:italic> studies with SPF30 sunscreen formulations containing a variety of AI\/AO ingredients were performed according to the International Standard ISO24444:2010 method. While ISO24444:2010 requires assessment of erythema at 20\u00a0\u00b1\u00a04h post\u2010irradiation, an additional assessment at 5\u00a0h post\u2010irradiation was also used to determine potential delay in erythema development.<\/jats:p><\/jats:sec><jats:sec><jats:title>Results<\/jats:title><jats:p>None of the formulations, containing a variety of AI\/AO ingredients, influenced SPF determination in comparison to the vehicle formulation.<\/jats:p><\/jats:sec><jats:sec><jats:title>Conclusion<\/jats:title><jats:p>Our <jats:italic>in vivo<\/jats:italic> results demonstrate that commonly\u2010used AI\/AO ingredients, at concentrations typically used in sunscreen products, neither influence SPF value nor delay erythemal response, i.e., the measured SPF reflects the true photoprotective capacity of the product.<\/jats:p><\/jats:sec>","DOI":"10.1111\/ics.12540","type":"journal-article","created":{"date-parts":[[2019,5,14]],"date-time":"2019-05-14T08:15:25Z","timestamp":1557821725000},"page":"320-324","update-policy":"https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1002\/crossmark_policy","source":"Crossref","is-referenced-by-count":11,"title":["Anti\u2010inflammatory \/ anti\u2010oxidant activity of ingredients of sunscreen products? Implications for SPF"],"prefix":"10.1111","volume":"41","author":[{"ORCID":"https:\/\/orcid.org\/0000-0001-8608-8901","authenticated-orcid":false,"given":"L.","family":"Kolbe","sequence":"first","affiliation":[{"name":"Beiersdorf AG Unnastrasse 48 20245 Hamburg Germany"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"ORCID":"https:\/\/orcid.org\/0000-0002-2016-7997","authenticated-orcid":false,"given":"M.","family":"Pissavini","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Coty\u2010Lancaster SAM 2, rue de la Lujerneta 98000 Monaco Monaco"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"given":"C.","family":"Tricaud","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"L\u2019Or\u00e9al 188 rue Paul Hochart 94 550 Chevilly Larue France"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"given":"C.","family":"Trull\u00e1s Cabanas","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"ISDIN Proven\u00e7als 33 Barcelona Spain"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"given":"E.","family":"Dietrich","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Cosmetics Europe \u2010 The Personal Care Association Avenue Herrmann\u2010Debroux 40 B\u20101160 Brussels Belgium"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"given":"P. J.","family":"Matts","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Procter &amp; Gamble, Greater London Innovation Centre Egham UK"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]}],"member":"311","published-online":{"date-parts":[[2019,6,24]]},"reference":[{"key":"e_1_2_5_2_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1016\/j.pbiomolbio.2006.02.005"},{"key":"e_1_2_5_3_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1016\/j.jaad.2016.09.038"},{"key":"e_1_2_5_4_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1017\/S146239940200532X"},{"key":"e_1_2_5_5_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1001\/jama.294.12.1541"},{"key":"e_1_2_5_6_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.7326\/0003-4819-158-11-201306040-00002"},{"key":"e_1_2_5_7_1","unstructured":"Technical Committee ISO\/TC 217 Cosmetics.ISO 24444: 2010. Cosmetics \u2010 sun protection test methods \u2010 in vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF). 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