{"status":"ok","message-type":"work","message-version":"1.0.0","message":{"indexed":{"date-parts":[[2026,9,28]],"date-time":"2026-09-28T20:17:19Z","timestamp":1790626639535,"version":"4.1.0"},"reference-count":45,"publisher":"Wiley","issue":"2","license":[{"start":{"date-parts":[[2024,12,1]],"date-time":"2024-12-01T00:00:00Z","timestamp":1733011200000},"content-version":"vor","delay-in-days":0,"URL":"http:\/\/onlinelibrary.wiley.com\/termsAndConditions#vor"}],"content-domain":{"domain":["onlinelibrary.wiley.com"],"crossmark-restriction":true},"short-container-title":["Intern J of Cosmetic Sci"],"published-print":{"date-parts":[[2025,4]]},"abstract":"<jats:title>Abstract<\/jats:title><jats:sec><jats:title>Objective<\/jats:title><jats:p>Substantial efforts have been progressively devoted to developing innovative, safe, and effective topical anti\u2010aging products that not only improve the appearance of aged skin but also prioritize environmental sustainability and the responsible use of natural resources. Thus, the current study targeted to evaluate novel, natural emulsion\/serum comprising new glycolipid emulsifier (lauryl glucoside\/myristyl glucoside\/polyglyceryl\u20106 laurate) and <jats:italic>Acmella oleracea<\/jats:italic> plant extract as a model active.<\/jats:p><\/jats:sec><jats:sec><jats:title>Methods<\/jats:title><jats:p>The developed serum was assessed concerning its stability (freeze\u2013thaw test, accelerated study), safety (in vitro screening of eye irritation potential, dermal absorption study) and efficacy (randomized, active\/reference\u2010controlled, half\u2010face, in\u00a0vivo study). Changes in skin biophysical properties, microrelief, roughness, texture, surface, and volume parameters were assessed in the periocular and perioral areas of human volunteers after 2\u2009weeks of product application, utilizing several bioengineering and topography techniques.<\/jats:p><\/jats:sec><jats:sec><jats:title>Results<\/jats:title><jats:p>The stability study demonstrated favourable stability profile of the developed serum, with practically unaffected stability\u2010indicating parameters (apparent viscosity, yield, flow point, storage and loss moduli, loss factor, pH, electrical conductivity) during freeze\u2013thaw cycling and after 3\u2009months of storage at 45\u00b0C. The hen's egg test on the chorioallantoic membrane of fertilized chicken eggs confirmed the absence of ocular irritation potential of investigated serum; no effects of haemorrhage, lysis or coagulation were occurred. Skin permeation study using diffusion cells revealed no permeation of spilanthol from the tested <jats:italic>A. oleracea<\/jats:italic> extract\u2010loaded serum through the pig ear skin into the receptor medium, thus suggesting no absorption into systemic circulation. In\u00a0vivo efficacy study corroborated beneficial effects of evaluated serum on the condition\/appearance of facial skin, at both periocular and perioral areas\u2014significant (<jats:italic>p<\/jats:italic>\u2009&lt;\u20090.05) increase in skin hydration (10%\u201340%) and smoothness (~15%); significant (<jats:italic>p<\/jats:italic>\u2009&lt;\u20090.05) decrease in roughness (20%\u201330%), scaliness (~30%), and wrinkles (~15%)\u2014implying more hydrated, smoother, visibly milder skin.<\/jats:p><\/jats:sec><jats:sec><jats:title>Conclusion<\/jats:title><jats:p>The present findings confirmed the stability, preliminary safety (no ocular irritation, no dermal absorption, and good skin tolerability), and efficacy (improved skin hydration and microrelief) of the <jats:italic>A. oleracea<\/jats:italic> extract\u2010loaded, glycolipid\u2010based serum, supporting its potential as a safe and effective topical anti\u2010aging product.<\/jats:p><\/jats:sec>","DOI":"10.1111\/ics.13034","type":"journal-article","created":{"date-parts":[[2024,12,2]],"date-time":"2024-12-02T02:14:26Z","timestamp":1733105666000},"page":"362-382","update-policy":"https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1002\/crossmark_policy","source":"Crossref","is-referenced-by-count":3,"title":["Preliminary safety and in\u00a0vivo efficacy of <i>Acmella oleracea<\/i> extract\u2010loaded glycolipid emulsion serum\u2014Effects on ocular irritation, dermal absorption, and facial skin biophysical and microrelief properties"],"prefix":"10.1111","volume":"47","author":[{"ORCID":"https:\/\/orcid.org\/0000-0002-8121-6924","authenticated-orcid":false,"given":"Sanela M.","family":"Savic","sequence":"first","affiliation":[{"name":"Faculty of Technology in Leskovac University of Ni\u0161  Leskovac Serbia"},{"name":"Research and Development Sector, DCP Hemigal  Leskovac Serbia"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"given":"Nebojsa D.","family":"Cekic","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Faculty of Technology in Leskovac University of Ni\u0161  Leskovac Serbia"},{"name":"Research and Development Sector, DCP Hemigal  Leskovac Serbia"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"given":"Tanja M.","family":"Ilic","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Department of Pharmaceutical Technology and Cosmetology, Faculty of Pharmacy University of Belgrade  Belgrade Serbia"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"given":"Bojan D.","family":"Markovic","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Department of Pharmaceutical Chemistry, Faculty of Pharmacy University of Belgrade  Belgrade Serbia"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"given":"Sasa R.","family":"Savic","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Faculty of Technology in Leskovac University of Ni\u0161  Leskovac Serbia"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"given":"Sanja M.","family":"Petrovic","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Faculty of Technology in Leskovac University of Ni\u0161  Leskovac Serbia"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"given":"Snezana D.","family":"Savic","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Department of Pharmaceutical Technology and Cosmetology, Faculty of Pharmacy University of Belgrade  Belgrade Serbia"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]}],"member":"311","published-online":{"date-parts":[[2024,12]]},"reference":[{"key":"e_1_2_8_2_1","unstructured":"MontanariD GuglielmoM.Cosmetic composition for skin application suitable for relaxing expression wrinkles. 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