{"status":"ok","message-type":"work","message-version":"1.0.0","message":{"indexed":{"date-parts":[[2026,8,18]],"date-time":"2026-08-18T00:51:38Z","timestamp":1787014298417,"version":"build-2736575974"},"reference-count":93,"publisher":"Wiley","issue":"2","license":[{"start":{"date-parts":[[2025,10,22]],"date-time":"2025-10-22T00:00:00Z","timestamp":1761091200000},"content-version":"vor","delay-in-days":0,"URL":"http:\/\/onlinelibrary.wiley.com\/termsAndConditions#vor"},{"start":{"date-parts":[[2025,10,22]],"date-time":"2025-10-22T00:00:00Z","timestamp":1761091200000},"content-version":"tdm","delay-in-days":0,"URL":"http:\/\/doi.wiley.com\/10.1002\/tdm_license_1.1"}],"content-domain":{"domain":["onlinelibrary.wiley.com"],"crossmark-restriction":true},"short-container-title":["Intern J of Cosmetic Sci"],"published-print":{"date-parts":[[2026,4]]},"abstract":"<jats:title>Abstract<\/jats:title>\n                  <jats:p>\n                    While androgenetic alopecia (AGA) is primarily driven by excessive 5\u2010\u03b1 reductase (5\u2010\u03b1R) activity, further mechanisms also contribute to the development of AGA and other hair loss disorders. Here, we explored the properties of the proprietary lipidosterolic extracts of the plant\n                    <jats:italic>Serenoa repens<\/jats:italic>\n                    (LSESr), also known as Saw Palmetto, focusing on USPlus\u00ae DERM Bioactive Fatty Acids (USPlus\u00ae DERM). USPlus\u00ae DERM contains concentrated levels of bioactive free fatty acids (FFAs) that are integral lipids found in the hair shaft and modulate pathways relevant to hair follicle (HF) function. Therefore, USPlus\u00ae DERM promises to have both 5\u2010\u03b1R\u2010dependent and also \u2010independent hair growth\u2010promoting effects. Here, we initially confirmed the 5\u2010\u03b1R inhibitor activity of USPlus\u00ae DERM in primary human hair follicle dermal papilla cells. USPlus\u00ae DERM exhibited a more potent 5\u2010\u03b1R inhibition than a standard, commercially available saw palmetto extract and a standardized LSESr meeting the US Pharmacopoeia monograph, with IC\n                    <jats:sub>50<\/jats:sub>\n                    values of 0.39, 29.1 and 9.1\u2009\u03bcg\/mL respectively. To explore potential 5\u2010\u03b1R\u2010independent responses, USPlus\u00ae DERM was administered at two different concentrations, 0.4 and 10\u2009\u03bcg\/mL, to androgen\u2010independent, \u2018clinically healthy\u2019 full\u2010length HFs ex\u00a0vivo obtained from the occipital scalp of male donors, in the absence of testosterone. Interestingly, USPlus\u00ae DERM at 0.4\u2009\u03bcg\/mL significantly reduced the number of melanin clumps, regarded as signs of organ culture mediated stress conditions. Despite inter\u2010donor variations, USPlus\u00ae DERM prolonged anagen ex\u00a0vivo, particularly at the low concentration, evidenced by a significant reduction in the hair cycle score and the tendency to boost hair matrix keratinocyte proliferation (Ki\u201067\n                    <jats:sup>+<\/jats:sup>\n                    cells). USPlus\u00ae DERM did not affect dermal papilla inductivity, as measured by versican expression and alkaline phosphatase activity. While the percentage of K15\n                    <jats:sup>+<\/jats:sup>\n                    epithelial HF stem cells (eHFSC) remained unaffected, 0.4\u2009\u03bcg\/mL USPlus\u00ae DERM tendentially enhanced K15 expression and reduced the number of Ki\u201067\n                    <jats:sup>+<\/jats:sup>\n                    K15\n                    <jats:sup>+<\/jats:sup>\n                    cells, indicating reinforcement of the eHFSCs niche. These preliminary findings suggest that USPlus\u00ae DERM has the potential to promote hair growth and to enhance HFSC stemness in the \u2018clinically predictive\u2019 HF organ culture model, independently from 5\u2010\u03b1R inhibition. Thus, USPlus\u00ae DERM deserves to be further investigated as an anti\u2010hair loss strategy, for not only AGA management but also other hair loss disorders.\n                  <\/jats:p>","DOI":"10.1111\/ics.70035","type":"journal-article","created":{"date-parts":[[2025,10,23]],"date-time":"2025-10-23T05:15:46Z","timestamp":1761196546000},"page":"352-366","update-policy":"https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1002\/crossmark_policy","source":"Crossref","is-referenced-by-count":3,"title":["A proprietary lipidosterolic extract of Serenoa repens promotes hair growth through mechanisms that extend beyond 5\u2010alpha reductase inhibition: Insights from human hair follicle organ culture"],"prefix":"10.1111","volume":"48","author":[{"given":"David","family":"Broadley","sequence":"first","affiliation":[{"name":"QIMA Life Sciences QIMA Monasterium GmbH  M\u00fcnster Germany"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"given":"Aliz\u00e9e","family":"Le 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