{"status":"ok","message-type":"work","message-version":"1.0.0","message":{"indexed":{"date-parts":[[2026,10,7]],"date-time":"2026-10-07T20:43:42Z","timestamp":1791405822071,"version":"4.3.3"},"reference-count":43,"publisher":"Wiley","license":[{"start":{"date-parts":[[2026,5,14]],"date-time":"2026-05-14T00:00:00Z","timestamp":1778716800000},"content-version":"vor","delay-in-days":0,"URL":"http:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by\/4.0\/"},{"start":{"date-parts":[[2026,5,14]],"date-time":"2026-05-14T00:00:00Z","timestamp":1778716800000},"content-version":"tdm","delay-in-days":0,"URL":"http:\/\/doi.wiley.com\/10.1002\/tdm_license_1.1"}],"funder":[{"DOI":"10.13039\/501100001871","name":"Funda\u00e7\u00e3o para a Ci\u00eancia e a Tecnologia","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","award":["2024.01202.BD"],"award-info":[{"award-number":["2024.01202.BD"]}],"id":[{"id":"10.13039\/501100001871","id-type":"DOI","asserted-by":"publisher"}]},{"DOI":"10.13039\/501100001871","name":"Funda\u00e7\u00e3o para a Ci\u00eancia e a Tecnologia","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","award":["2023.14718.TENURE.016"],"award-info":[{"award-number":["2023.14718.TENURE.016"]}],"id":[{"id":"10.13039\/501100001871","id-type":"DOI","asserted-by":"publisher"}]}],"content-domain":{"domain":["onlinelibrary.wiley.com"],"crossmark-restriction":true},"short-container-title":["Intern J of Cosmetic Sci"],"abstract":"Abstract<\/jats:title>\n \n \n The evaluation of cosmetic ingredients permeation through human skin is a key aspect in the safety and efficacy development of topical formulations. However, conventional approaches are limited by the low availability, inter\u2010donor variability and ethical constraints associated with ex\u00a0vivo human skin explants. In this context, 3D in\u00a0vitro skin models have emerged as promising alternatives, although their predictive capacity still requires further validation.<\/jats:p>\n <\/jats:sec>\n \n Objective<\/jats:title>\n This study aimed to assess and compare the permeation of catechin, epicatechin, chlorogenic acid (CGA), neochlorogenic acid (NCGA) and their mixture using a 3D full\u2010thickness skin model and ex\u00a0vivo human skin explants.<\/jats:p>\n <\/jats:sec>\n \n Methods<\/jats:title>\n The 3D full\u2010thickness model was independently prepared using dermal (HDF) and epidermal (HaCaT) cell lines cultured under air\u2013liquid interface conditions. Separately, ex\u00a0vivo human skin explants were mounted on Franz diffusion cells. 3D full\u2010thickness model barrier formation was monitored by transepithelial electrical resistance (TEER), while permeation was quantified by liquid chromatography coupled with diode array detection and mass spectrometry (LC\u2010DAD\u2010MS) in both models. Cytocompatibility was evaluated using the MTT assay.<\/jats:p>\n <\/jats:sec>\n \n Results<\/jats:title>\n \n The 3D co\u2010culture model exhibited a progressive increase in TEER, reaching stable values above 200\u2009\u03a9.cm\n 2<\/jats:sup>\n , indicating a functional skin barrier formation. In\u00a0vitro permeation studies enabled the detection of all tested compounds and revealed compound\u2010specific permeation profiles strongly influenced by the structural characteristics of flavan\u20103\u2010ols and hydroxycinnamic acids. In contrast, ex\u00a0vivo human skin explants exhibited a more restrictive barrier, with only CGA and NCGA being quantifiable, achieving 44%\u201350% permeation after 24\u2009h and displaying high skin retention rates (63%\u201370%). None of the tested compounds induced cytotoxic effects.\n <\/jats:p>\n <\/jats:sec>\n \n Conclusion<\/jats:title>\n This work demonstrates that full\u2010thickness 3D skin models represent a robust and ethically advantageous screening platform for cosmetic ingredients, bridging the gap between conventional 2D monocultures and ex\u00a0vivo human skin explants, and contributing to the reduction of human tissue use in dermal absorption studies.<\/jats:p>\n <\/jats:sec>","DOI":"10.1111\/ics.70107","type":"journal-article","created":{"date-parts":[[2026,5,14]],"date-time":"2026-05-14T08:06:45Z","timestamp":1778746005000},"update-policy":"https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1002\/crossmark_policy","source":"Crossref","is-referenced-by-count":1,"title":["Unravelling polyphenol skin permeation: A comparative study using full\u2010thickness\n 3D<\/scp>\n in\u00a0vitro and ex\u00a0vivo human skin models"],"prefix":"10.1111","author":[{"given":"Mariana","family":"Marques","sequence":"first","affiliation":[{"name":"RISE\u2010Health, Centro de Investiga\u00e7\u00e3o em Sa\u00fade Translacional e Biotecnologia M\u00e9dica (TBIO), Escola Superior de Sa\u00fade, Instituto Polit\u00e9cnico do Porto, Rua Dr. Ant\u00f3nio Bernardino de Almeida Porto Portugal"},{"name":"Associate Laboratory i4HB \u2013 Institute for Health and Bioeconomy, Faculty of Pharmacy University of Porto Porto Portugal"},{"name":"UCIBIO \u2013 Applied Molecular Biosciences Unit, MedTech\u2010Laboratory of Pharmaceutical Technology, Faculty of Pharmacy University of Porto Porto Portugal"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"given":"Filipa","family":"Teixeira","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Associate Laboratory i4HB \u2013 Institute for Health and Bioeconomy, Faculty of Pharmacy University of Porto Porto Portugal"},{"name":"UCIBIO \u2013 Applied Molecular Biosciences Unit, MedTech\u2010Laboratory of Pharmaceutical Technology, Faculty of Pharmacy University of Porto Porto Portugal"},{"name":"ICBAS, University of Porto Porto Portugal"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"ORCID":"https:\/\/orcid.org\/0000-0002-8687-4811","authenticated-orcid":false,"given":"M\u00f3nica","family":"Vieira","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"RISE\u2010Health, Centro de Investiga\u00e7\u00e3o em Sa\u00fade Translacional e Biotecnologia M\u00e9dica (TBIO), Escola Superior de Sa\u00fade, Instituto Polit\u00e9cnico do Porto, Rua Dr. Ant\u00f3nio Bernardino de Almeida Porto Portugal"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"given":"M. Helena","family":"Amaral","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Associate Laboratory i4HB \u2013 Institute for Health and Bioeconomy, Faculty of Pharmacy University of Porto Porto Portugal"},{"name":"UCIBIO \u2013 Applied Molecular Biosciences Unit, MedTech\u2010Laboratory of Pharmaceutical Technology, Faculty of Pharmacy University of Porto Porto Portugal"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"given":"Paulo C.","family":"Costa","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Associate Laboratory i4HB \u2013 Institute for Health and Bioeconomy, Faculty of Pharmacy University of Porto Porto Portugal"},{"name":"UCIBIO \u2013 Applied Molecular Biosciences Unit, MedTech\u2010Laboratory of Pharmaceutical Technology, Faculty of Pharmacy University of Porto Porto Portugal"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"given":"Stefano","family":"Dall'Acqua","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Department of Pharmaceutical and Pharmacological 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