{"status":"ok","message-type":"work","message-version":"1.0.0","message":{"indexed":{"date-parts":[[2026,8,10]],"date-time":"2026-08-10T06:28:18Z","timestamp":1786343298220,"version":"build-2736575974"},"reference-count":31,"publisher":"Wiley","license":[{"start":{"date-parts":[[2026,8,9]],"date-time":"2026-08-09T00:00:00Z","timestamp":1786233600000},"content-version":"vor","delay-in-days":0,"URL":"http:\/\/onlinelibrary.wiley.com\/termsAndConditions#vor"},{"start":{"date-parts":[[2026,8,9]],"date-time":"2026-08-09T00:00:00Z","timestamp":1786233600000},"content-version":"tdm","delay-in-days":0,"URL":"http:\/\/doi.wiley.com\/10.1002\/tdm_license_1.1"}],"content-domain":{"domain":["onlinelibrary.wiley.com"],"crossmark-restriction":true},"short-container-title":["Intern J of Cosmetic Sci"],"abstract":"Abstract<\/jats:title>\n \n Background<\/jats:title>\n Blemish\u2010prone skin is driven by follicular hyperkeratinization, excessive sebum production, microbial dysbiosis and inflammation, often accompanied by post\u2010inflammatory erythema and hyperpigmentation. Retinal and azelaic acid are established topical actives with complementary mechanisms of action, yet no clinical study has evaluated their combination in a single formulation.<\/jats:p>\n <\/jats:sec>\n \n Objective<\/jats:title>\n To evaluate the efficacy and tolerability of a minimalist anhydrous concentrate combining retinal (0.1%) and azelaic acid (10%) in improving objective and self\u2010perceived features of blemish\u2010prone skin over 8\u2009weeks.<\/jats:p>\n <\/jats:sec>\n \n Methods<\/jats:title>\n In a prospective randomized, vehicle\u2010controlled split\u2010face study, participants applied the active concentrate to one side of the face and a vehicle concentrate to the contralateral side, mixed with a moisturizer immediately before application. Assessments were performed at baseline and week 8 using standardized photography, Antera 3D imaging and consumer questionnaires. Statistical comparisons were performed within subjects and between treatment conditions.<\/jats:p>\n <\/jats:sec>\n \n Results<\/jats:title>\n \n Twenty\u2010three participants completed the study (age 16\u201349\u2009years; mean 28\u2009years; Fitzpatrick skin types I\u2013IV). After 8\u2009weeks, the active formulation demonstrated statistically significant improvements versus baseline and vehicle. Skin texture improved by 10.9% versus baseline (\n p<\/jats:italic>\n \u2009<\u20090.0001) and 5.6% versus vehicle (\n p<\/jats:italic>\n \u2009=\u20090.0016). Skin volume (surface irregularities\/pits) decreased by 24.8% versus baseline (\n p<\/jats:italic>\n \u2009<\u20090.0001) and 12.7% versus vehicle (\n p<\/jats:italic>\n \u2009=\u20090.0053). Overall redness was reduced by 13.2% versus baseline (\n p<\/jats:italic>\n \u2009=\u20090.0009) and 18.1% versus vehicle (\n p<\/jats:italic>\n \u2009=\u20090.011), while maximum redness intensity decreased by 8.8% versus baseline (\n p<\/jats:italic>\n \u2009<\u20090.0001) and 5.2% versus vehicle (\n p<\/jats:italic>\n \u2009=\u20090.029). The pore parameter showed a 22.3% improvement versus vehicle (\n p<\/jats:italic>\n \u2009=\u20090.015) and 15.9% versus baseline (\n p<\/jats:italic>\n \u2009=\u20090.051). Self\u2010assessments indicated improvements in overall skin condition (87%), pimple size\/severity (78%), number of pimples (74%), calmer skin feel (95%) and reduced oiliness (82%). Visible improvements within 4\u2009weeks were reported by 65% of participants. Adverse events were few, mild and transient.\n <\/jats:p>\n <\/jats:sec>\n \n Conclusion<\/jats:title>\n An anhydrous six\u2010ingredient concentrate combining retinal 0.1% and azelaic acid 10% significantly improved texture, surface irregularities, redness and pore appearance in acne\u2010prone skin over 8\u2009weeks with good tolerability. The formulation provides a stability\u2010optimized approach for combining two evidence\u2010based actives in a minimalist system.<\/jats:p>\n <\/jats:sec>","DOI":"10.1111\/ics.70131","type":"journal-article","created":{"date-parts":[[2026,8,10]],"date-time":"2026-08-10T05:34:43Z","timestamp":1786340083000},"update-policy":"https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1002\/crossmark_policy","source":"Crossref","is-referenced-by-count":0,"title":["Efficacy and safety of a novel anhydrous 0.1% retinal and 10% azelaic acid concentrate for blemish\u2010prone skin: An eight\u2010week randomized prospective split\u2010face, vehicle\u2010controlled study"],"prefix":"10.1111","author":[{"given":"Chlo\u00e9","family":"Gaudicheau","sequence":"first","affiliation":[{"name":"Skinome Research AB Stockholm Sweden"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"given":"Maria","family":"Ahlstr\u00f6m","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Skinome Research AB Stockholm Sweden"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"ORCID":"https:\/\/orcid.org\/0000-0002-5316-9841","authenticated-orcid":false,"given":"Johanna Maria","family":"Gillbro","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Skinome Research AB Stockholm Sweden"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"given":"Ulf","family":"\u00c5kerstr\u00f6m","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Skinome Research AB Stockholm Sweden"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]}],"member":"311","published-online":{"date-parts":[[2026,8,9]]},"reference":[{"key":"e_1_2_10_2_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1016\/j.jaad.2015.12.037"},{"key":"e_1_2_10_3_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1111\/jdv.15043"},{"key":"e_1_2_10_4_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.2165\/0128071\u2010200809060\u201000003"},{"key":"e_1_2_10_5_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1016\/S0190\u20109622(97)70049\u20105"},{"issue":"6","key":"e_1_2_10_6_1","first-page":"638","article-title":"40\u2009years of topical Tretinoin use in review","volume":"12","author":"Baldwin HE","year":"2013","journal-title":"Journal of Drugs in Dermatology"},{"key":"e_1_2_10_7_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.2165\/00003495\u2010199141050\u201000007"},{"key":"e_1_2_10_8_1","first-page":"95","article-title":"The multiple uses of azelaic acid in dermatology","volume":"17","author":"Sauer N","year":"2024","journal-title":"Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology"},{"key":"e_1_2_10_9_1","first-page":"570","article-title":"Retinaldehyde in cosmetic dermatology: A systematic review","volume":"46","author":"Searle T","year":"2026","journal-title":"Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology"},{"key":"e_1_2_10_10_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1007\/978-94-024-0945-1_5"},{"key":"e_1_2_10_11_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.3390\/biom10010005"},{"key":"e_1_2_10_12_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1111\/j.1473\u20102165.2005.00198.x"},{"key":"e_1_2_10_13_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.2147\/ciia.2006.1.4.327"},{"key":"e_1_2_10_14_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1159\/000051375"},{"key":"e_1_2_10_15_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1159\/000063903"},{"key":"e_1_2_10_16_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1046\/j.1439-0353.2004.04731.x"},{"issue":"4","key":"e_1_2_10_17_1","first-page":"521","article-title":"A possible mechanism of action for azelaic acid in the treatment of hyperpigmentary disorders: Inhibition of tyrosinase and thioredoxin reductase","volume":"122","author":"Schallreuter KU","year":"1990","journal-title":"The British Journal of Dermatology"},{"key":"e_1_2_10_18_1","first-page":"7","article-title":"Azelaic acid\u2010biochemistry and metabolism","volume":"69","author":"Passi S","year":"1989","journal-title":"Acta Dermato\u2010Venereologica"},{"key":"e_1_2_10_19_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1111\/j.1600\u20100625.2010.01077.x"},{"key":"e_1_2_10_20_1","unstructured":"Iglebaek HerceglijaE.Stability testing of all\u2010trans\u2010retinol in an experimental cosmetic formulation and in methanol and methanol containing butylhydroxytoluene (BHT) using reversed\u2010phase HPLC DiVA diva2:1598594. Uppsala University2021."},{"key":"e_1_2_10_21_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1111\/jocd.13852"},{"key":"e_1_2_10_22_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.3390\/cosmetics12060235"},{"key":"e_1_2_10_23_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.3390\/ph18091273"},{"key":"e_1_2_10_24_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1111\/ics.12718"},{"key":"e_1_2_10_25_1","first-page":"24","article-title":"Split\u2010face evaluation studies commonly use paired analyses including Wilcoxon signed\u2010rank tests for between\u2010treatment comparisons","volume":"11","author":"Stephens TJ","year":"2018","journal-title":"The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology"},{"key":"e_1_2_10_26_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1111\/srt.12436"},{"key":"e_1_2_10_27_1","first-page":"617","article-title":"Pore measurements with the Antera 3D represent a reliable tool for efficacy and field studies","volume":"24","author":"Messaraa C","year":"2018","journal-title":"Skin Research and Technology"},{"key":"e_1_2_10_28_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1001\/jama.2013.281053"},{"key":"e_1_2_10_29_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1007\/BF01262335"},{"key":"e_1_2_10_30_1","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","unstructured":"SukanjanapongS.Skin Barrier Parameters in Acne Vulgaris versus Normal Controls: A cross\u2010sectional analytic study.2024.","DOI":"10.2147\/CCID.S476004"},{"key":"e_1_2_10_31_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1248\/cpb.27.12"},{"key":"e_1_2_10_32_1","volume-title":"The Retinoids: Biology, Chemistry, and Medicine","author":"Furr HC","year":"1994"}],"container-title":["International Journal of Cosmetic Science"],"original-title":[],"language":"en","link":[{"URL":"https:\/\/onlinelibrary.wiley.com\/doi\/pdf\/10.1111\/ics.70131","content-type":"application\/pdf","content-version":"vor","intended-application":"text-mining"},{"URL":"https:\/\/onlinelibrary.wiley.com\/doi\/full-xml\/10.1111\/ics.70131","content-type":"application\/xml","content-version":"vor","intended-application":"text-mining"},{"URL":"https:\/\/onlinelibrary.wiley.com\/doi\/pdf\/10.1111\/ics.70131","content-type":"unspecified","content-version":"vor","intended-application":"similarity-checking"}],"deposited":{"date-parts":[[2026,8,10]],"date-time":"2026-08-10T05:34:46Z","timestamp":1786340086000},"score":1,"resource":{"primary":{"URL":"https:\/\/onlinelibrary.wiley.com\/doi\/10.1111\/ics.70131"}},"subtitle":[],"short-title":[],"issued":{"date-parts":[[2026,8,9]]},"references-count":31,"alternative-id":["10.1111\/ics.70131"],"URL":"https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1111\/ics.70131","archive":["Portico"],"relation":{},"ISSN":["0142-5463","1468-2494"],"issn-type":[{"value":"0142-5463","type":"print"},{"value":"1468-2494","type":"electronic"}],"subject":[],"published":{"date-parts":[[2026,8,9]]},"assertion":[{"value":"2026-06-02","order":0,"name":"received","label":"Received","group":{"name":"publication_history","label":"Publication History"}},{"value":"2026-07-03","order":2,"name":"accepted","label":"Accepted","group":{"name":"publication_history","label":"Publication History"}},{"value":"2026-08-09","order":3,"name":"published","label":"Published","group":{"name":"publication_history","label":"Publication History"}}],"article-number":"ics.70131"}}