{"status":"ok","message-type":"work","message-version":"1.0.0","message":{"indexed":{"date-parts":[[2026,9,10]],"date-time":"2026-09-10T09:10:37Z","timestamp":1789031437513,"version":"build-2803163510"},"reference-count":55,"publisher":"Wiley","license":[{"start":{"date-parts":[[2026,9,10]],"date-time":"2026-09-10T00:00:00Z","timestamp":1788998400000},"content-version":"vor","delay-in-days":0,"URL":"http:\/\/onlinelibrary.wiley.com\/termsAndConditions#vor"},{"start":{"date-parts":[[2026,9,10]],"date-time":"2026-09-10T00:00:00Z","timestamp":1788998400000},"content-version":"tdm","delay-in-days":0,"URL":"http:\/\/doi.wiley.com\/10.1002\/tdm_license_1.1"}],"funder":[{"DOI":"10.13039\/501100001871","name":"Funda\u00e7\u00e3o para a Ci\u00eancia e a Tecnologia","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","id":[{"id":"10.13039\/501100001871","id-type":"DOI","asserted-by":"publisher"}]}],"content-domain":{"domain":["onlinelibrary.wiley.com"],"crossmark-restriction":true},"short-container-title":["Intern J of Cosmetic Sci"],"abstract":"Abstract<\/jats:title>\n \n Background<\/jats:title>\n Thermal spring waters are known for their distinctive mineral compositions, which provide health\u2010promoting, antioxidant, immunomodulatory and skin barrier\u2013reinforcing effects. Historically valued for therapeutic use, these waters have recently gained renewed interest as active components in cosmetic and dermatological formulations. Previous works characterized one of Portugal's most renowned thermal waters from Chaves, revealing its potential as a dermatological base ingredient due to its anti\u2010inflammatory effects, namely the reduction of interleukin\u20106 in stimulated human keratinocytes. In\u00a0vivo assays further demonstrated improved skin barrier function, as evidenced by decreased transepidermal water loss and enhanced hydration without disturbing the skin microbiota.<\/jats:p>\n <\/jats:sec>\n \n Objective<\/jats:title>\n \n Building on these results, a new formulation was developed using Chaves thermal water as both solvent and active ingredient, combined with natural extracts of mallow (\n Malva sylvestris<\/jats:italic>\n ) and cucumber (\n Cucumis sativus<\/jats:italic>\n ), and the natural chelating agent sodium phytate to achieve a high natural index. This formulation was compared with the isolated thermal water to evaluate synergistic bioactivities.\n <\/jats:p>\n <\/jats:sec>\n \n Methods<\/jats:title>\n \n A formulation containing ~80% Chaves thermal spring water,\n Malva sylvestris<\/jats:italic>\n and\n Cucumis sativus<\/jats:italic>\n extracts and sodium phytate was prepared and characterized. Antioxidant activity (ABTS\/DPPH), ferrous ion chelation and inhibition of matrix metalloproteinase\u20101, tyrosinase and elastase were evaluated. Anti\u2010inflammatory effects were assessed in particulate matter\u2013stimulated HaCaT keratinocytes by measuring interleukin\u20106 and interleukin\u20101\u03b1 (Enzyme\u2010Linked Immunosorbent Assay (ELISA)). Antimicrobial screening against\n Staphylococcus aureus<\/jats:italic>\n and\n Staphylococcus epidermidis<\/jats:italic>\n was performed using growth curves.\n <\/jats:p>\n <\/jats:sec>\n \n Results<\/jats:title>\n This formulation was compared with the isolated thermal water to evaluate synergistic bioactivities. The results revealed a substantial increase in antioxidant capacity, as shown by enhanced ABTS radical scavenging activity and stronger inhibitory effects on ageing\u2010related enzymes, including matrix metalloproteinase\u20101, tyrosinase and elastase. Anti\u2010inflammatory activity was confirmed through reductions in both interleukin\u20101\u03b1 and interleukin\u20106 levels, the former showing notable improvement compared with the thermal water.<\/jats:p>\n <\/jats:sec>\n \n Conclusion<\/jats:title>\n Overall, this study demonstrates that combining Chaves thermal spring water with synergistic natural extracts yields a multifunctional cosmetic ingredient with amplified antioxidant, anti\u2010inflammatory and anti\u2010ageing properties, offering strong potential for advanced skin care applications.<\/jats:p>\n <\/jats:sec>","DOI":"10.1111\/ics.70137","type":"journal-article","created":{"date-parts":[[2026,9,10]],"date-time":"2026-09-10T08:51:12Z","timestamp":1789030272000},"update-policy":"https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1002\/crossmark_policy","source":"Crossref","is-referenced-by-count":0,"title":["Chaves thermal spring water formulation: Substantiating anti\u2010ageing and anti\u2010inflammatory effects"],"prefix":"10.1111","author":[{"ORCID":"https:\/\/orcid.org\/0009-0000-2119-8077","authenticated-orcid":false,"given":"Pedro Emanuel","family":"Rocha","sequence":"first","affiliation":[{"name":"Universidade Cat\u00f3lica Portuguesa, CBQF \u2013 Centro de Biotecnologia e Qu\u00edmica Fina (Laborat\u00f3rio Associado), Escola Superior de Biotecnologia Porto Portugal"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"ORCID":"https:\/\/orcid.org\/0000-0001-9859-7092","authenticated-orcid":false,"given":"Margarida","family":"Faustino","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Universidade Cat\u00f3lica Portuguesa, CBQF \u2013 Centro de Biotecnologia e Qu\u00edmica Fina (Laborat\u00f3rio Associado), Escola Superior de Biotecnologia Porto Portugal"},{"name":"Biorbis Unipessoal Lda. 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Porto Portugal"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"given":"Maria Jos\u00e9","family":"Alves","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"AquaValor \u2013 Centro de Valoriza\u00e7\u00e3o e Transfer\u00eancia de Tecnologia da \u00c1gua Chaves Portugal"},{"name":"LiveWell \u2013 Research Centre for Active Living & Wellbeing Instituto Polit\u00e9cnico de Bragan\u00e7a Bragan\u00e7a Portugal"},{"name":"CIMO \u2013 Centro de Investiga\u00e7\u00e3o de Montanha, Instituto Polit\u00e9cnico de Bragan\u00e7a Bragan\u00e7a Portugal"},{"name":"SusTEC \u2013 Laborat\u00f3rio Associado para a Sustentabilidade e Tecnologia em Regi\u00f5es de Montanha Instituto Polit\u00e9cnico de Bragan\u00e7a, Campus de Santa Apol\u00f3nia Bragan\u00e7a Portugal"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"ORCID":"https:\/\/orcid.org\/0000-0002-2846-9279","authenticated-orcid":false,"given":"C\u00e1tia","family":"Fidalgo","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"AquaValor \u2013 Centro de Valoriza\u00e7\u00e3o e Transfer\u00eancia de Tecnologia da \u00c1gua Chaves Portugal"},{"name":"LiveWell \u2013 Research Centre for Active Living & Wellbeing Instituto Polit\u00e9cnico de Bragan\u00e7a Bragan\u00e7a Portugal"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"given":"Daniela","family":"Correia","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"LiveWell \u2013 Research Centre for Active Living & Wellbeing Instituto Polit\u00e9cnico de Bragan\u00e7a Bragan\u00e7a Portugal"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"ORCID":"https:\/\/orcid.org\/0000-0001-6596-1927","authenticated-orcid":false,"given":"Ana Raquel","family":"Madureira","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Universidade Cat\u00f3lica Portuguesa, CBQF \u2013 Centro de Biotecnologia e Qu\u00edmica Fina (Laborat\u00f3rio Associado), Escola Superior de Biotecnologia Porto Portugal"},{"name":"Biorbis Unipessoal Lda. 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