{"status":"ok","message-type":"work","message-version":"1.0.0","message":{"indexed":{"date-parts":[[2026,9,5]],"date-time":"2026-09-05T06:12:12Z","timestamp":1788588732049,"version":"build-2803163510"},"reference-count":41,"publisher":"Wiley","license":[{"start":{"date-parts":[[2026,9,4]],"date-time":"2026-09-04T00:00:00Z","timestamp":1788480000000},"content-version":"vor","delay-in-days":0,"URL":"http:\/\/onlinelibrary.wiley.com\/termsAndConditions#vor"},{"start":{"date-parts":[[2026,9,4]],"date-time":"2026-09-04T00:00:00Z","timestamp":1788480000000},"content-version":"tdm","delay-in-days":0,"URL":"http:\/\/doi.wiley.com\/10.1002\/tdm_license_1.1"}],"content-domain":{"domain":["onlinelibrary.wiley.com"],"crossmark-restriction":true},"short-container-title":["Intern J of Cosmetic Sci"],"abstract":"<jats:title>Abstract<\/jats:title>\n                  <jats:sec>\n                    <jats:title>Objective<\/jats:title>\n                    <jats:p>\n                      <jats:italic>Simmondsia chinensis<\/jats:italic>\n                      is a well\u2010known commercially popular plant from which jojoba oil is extracted. Jojoba cake is a sustainably produced, intractable by\u2010product of the jojoba seed oil extraction currently used principally as a fertilizer or burned as fuel. Fermentation work conducted with various microorganisms, including\n                      <jats:italic>Lactobacillus plantarum<\/jats:italic>\n                      ,\n                      <jats:italic>Saccharomyces cerevisiae<\/jats:italic>\n                      and\n                      <jats:italic>Streptococcus thermophilus,<\/jats:italic>\n                      sustainably grown on aqueous jojoba cake fermented the cake, liberating jojoba\u2010based amino acids, peptides and proteins. The ferments have been examined chemically and via in\u00a0vitro cell and tissue studies to develop new skin and scalp care targeted ingredients.\n                    <\/jats:p>\n                  <\/jats:sec>\n                  <jats:sec>\n                    <jats:title>Methods<\/jats:title>\n                    <jats:p>\n                      The jojoba cake contained nutrients (proteins, sugars and lipids) that self\u2010sustain aqueous bacterial fermentation. The ferments were examined on 3D tissue models in\u00a0vitro via human genomic microarrays. A ferment produced by\n                      <jats:italic>Lactobacillus plantarum<\/jats:italic>\n                      was further tested in\u00a0vitro using ELISA protein assays on skin cell cultures. A 56\u2010day clinical study on 46 individuals examined the influence of 1.0% of the\n                      <jats:italic>Lactobacillus<\/jats:italic>\n                      ferment on collagen expression using Diffuse Reflectance Spectroscopy (DRS).\n                    <\/jats:p>\n                  <\/jats:sec>\n                  <jats:sec>\n                    <jats:title>Results<\/jats:title>\n                    <jats:p>\n                      Gene responses were measured on 244+ genes known to have skin functions. It was found that the\n                      <jats:italic>Lactobacillus<\/jats:italic>\n                      ferment showed the greatest upregulation of skin\u2010associated genes, and three highly upregulated proteins were examined more closely in\u00a0vitro using ELISA protein assays: collagen\u20101A1, protocadherin\u201018 and opioid growth factor receptor. Each protein was upregulated in a dose\u2010dependent fashion. The collagen analysis by DRS demonstrated a statistically significant increase in collagen fluorescence on Day 28 and Day 56 compared to baseline and placebo cream. Further mapping of the collagen fluorescence was done on the individuals using the active formulation at Days 0, 28 and 56.\n                    <\/jats:p>\n                  <\/jats:sec>\n                  <jats:sec>\n                    <jats:title>Conclusion<\/jats:title>\n                    <jats:p>\n                      Jojoba cake presents a new source of sustainably grown biomass, but the cake is not suitable for topical applications. Fermentation produces components more suitable for topical care. In\u00a0vitro studies demonstrated upregulation of three skin proteins associated with healing skin. Further studies also employed a newly emerging spectroscopic technique to measure collagen fluorescence in the skin in\u00a0vivo, the results supporting in\u00a0vitro work indicating the ferment made with\n                      <jats:italic>Lactobacillus<\/jats:italic>\n                      was able to stimulate collagen synthesis in the skin.\n                    <\/jats:p>\n                  <\/jats:sec>","DOI":"10.1111\/ics.70138","type":"journal-article","created":{"date-parts":[[2026,9,5]],"date-time":"2026-09-05T05:47:06Z","timestamp":1788587226000},"update-policy":"https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1002\/crossmark_policy","source":"Crossref","is-referenced-by-count":0,"title":["<i>Simmondsia chinensis<\/i>\n                    (jojoba) cake fermentation: A new, sustainable technology for advanced skin and scalp care ingredients"],"prefix":"10.1111","author":[{"ORCID":"https:\/\/orcid.org\/0000-0002-2900-6946","authenticated-orcid":false,"given":"James V.","family":"Gruber","sequence":"first","affiliation":[{"name":"Research, Vantage  Warren New\u00a0Jersey USA"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"given":"Amber","family":"Schwartz","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Research, Vantage  Tucson Arizona USA"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"given":"Nicole","family":"Terpak","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Research, Vantage  Warren New\u00a0Jersey USA"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"given":"Robert","family":"Holtz","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Research, Bioinnovation Laboratories  Lakewood Colorado USA"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"ORCID":"https:\/\/orcid.org\/0000-0002-0226-2544","authenticated-orcid":false,"given":"Ana Lucia Tabarini Alves","family":"Pinheiro","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Research, Kosmoscience Ciencia &amp; Technologia Cosmetica LTDA, Valinos \u2010Sao Paulo  Sao Paulo Brazil"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"ORCID":"https:\/\/orcid.org\/0009-0005-2421-7938","authenticated-orcid":false,"given":"Mayara Miranda","family":"Ferreira","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Research, Kosmoscience Ciencia &amp; Technologia Cosmetica LTDA, Valinos \u2010Sao Paulo  Sao Paulo Brazil"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"ORCID":"https:\/\/orcid.org\/0000-0001-6181-8859","authenticated-orcid":false,"given":"Viviane Cristina","family":"Albarici","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Research, Kosmoscience Ciencia &amp; Technologia Cosmetica LTDA, Valinos \u2010Sao Paulo  Sao Paulo Brazil"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"ORCID":"https:\/\/orcid.org\/0000-0002-6387-7243","authenticated-orcid":false,"given":"Juliana Rodrigues","family":"Pinto","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Research, Kosmoscience Ciencia &amp; Technologia Cosmetica LTDA, Valinos \u2010Sao Paulo  Sao Paulo Brazil"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]}],"member":"311","published-online":{"date-parts":[[2026,9,4]]},"reference":[{"key":"e_1_2_11_2_1","first-page":"37","article-title":"Jojoba oil esters ease inflammation, sensitivity and water loss from skin and the environment","volume":"138","author":"Gruber JV","year":"2023","journal-title":"Cosmet Toilet"},{"key":"e_1_2_11_3_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1016\/j.phrs.2004.04.011"},{"key":"e_1_2_11_4_1","first-page":"381","article-title":"A review of Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) \u201cthe desert gold\u201d: A multipurpose oil seed crop for industrial uses","volume":"8","author":"Arya D","year":"2026","journal-title":"J Pharm Sci Res"},{"key":"e_1_2_11_5_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1111\/ics.12758"},{"key":"e_1_2_11_6_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.2147\/CCID.S391667"},{"key":"e_1_2_11_7_1","first-page":"2","article-title":"Jojoba esters enhance permeation of retinol, resveratrol, and CBD isolate","volume":"12","author":"Gruber JV","year":"2023","journal-title":"Happi"},{"key":"e_1_2_11_8_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.3390\/polym13111711"},{"key":"e_1_2_11_9_1","unstructured":"WisniakJ.Chemistry and technology of jojoba oil: State of the art.1985Proceedings of the sixth international conference on jojoba oil and its uses. Wisniak J; Zabricky J. Eds. Pages 311\u2013323."},{"key":"e_1_2_11_10_1","first-page":"1","article-title":"Quality and chemical composition of residual cakes obtained by pressing jojoba seeds produced in La Rioja, Argentina","volume":"95","author":"Gayol MF","year":"2007","journal-title":"J Argent Chem Soc"},{"key":"e_1_2_11_11_1","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"1488","DOI":"10.1021\/jf00008a024","article-title":"Processes for making animal feed and protein isolates from jojoba meal","volume":"39","author":"Abbott TP","year":"1991","journal-title":"J Agric Food Chem"},{"key":"e_1_2_11_12_1","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"591","DOI":"10.1002\/aocs.12712","article-title":"A review of the desert gold (Simmondsia chinensis) whole plant, oil, and meal: Phytochemical composition, medicinal uses, and detoxification","volume":"100","author":"Gendy SME","year":"2022","journal-title":"J Am Oil Chem Soc"},{"key":"e_1_2_11_13_1","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"296","DOI":"10.1021\/jf00104a020","article-title":"Detoxification of jojoba meal by lactobacilli","volume":"29","author":"Verbiscar AJ","year":"1981","journal-title":"J Agric Food Chem"},{"key":"e_1_2_11_14_1","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"270","DOI":"10.1007\/BF00166794","article-title":"Microorganisms for degrading simmondisin and related cyanogenic toxins in jojoba","volume":"34","author":"Abbott TP","year":"1990","journal-title":"Appl Microbiol Biotechnol"},{"key":"e_1_2_11_15_1","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"43","DOI":"10.1016\/0926-6690(94)90077-9","article-title":"Potential uses of jojoba oil and meal\u2010a review","volume":"3","author":"Wisniak J","year":"1994","journal-title":"Ind Crop Prod"},{"key":"e_1_2_11_16_1","volume-title":"The Art of Fermentation\u2010An In\u2010Depth Exploration of Essential Concepts and Processes From Around the World","author":"Katz SE","year":"2012"},{"key":"e_1_2_11_17_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.3390\/su16072757"},{"key":"e_1_2_11_18_1","volume-title":"Principals of Fermentation Technology","author":"Stanbury PF","year":"2016"},{"key":"e_1_2_11_19_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.3390\/molecules27154845"},{"key":"e_1_2_11_20_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.3390\/fermentation9050463"},{"key":"e_1_2_11_21_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.3390\/molecules29051018"},{"key":"e_1_2_11_22_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.3390\/cosmetics12010029"},{"key":"e_1_2_11_23_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1111\/ics.12999"},{"key":"e_1_2_11_24_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1111\/jocd.15927"},{"key":"e_1_2_11_25_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1093\/asj\/sjad041"},{"key":"e_1_2_11_26_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1177\/0963689717725755"},{"key":"e_1_2_11_27_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.3390\/cosmetics12040129"},{"key":"e_1_2_11_28_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1080\/19336918.2014.1000069"},{"key":"e_1_2_11_29_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1016\/j.neuron.2023.03.012"},{"key":"e_1_2_11_30_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1523\/JNEUROSCI.1940\u201022.2023"},{"key":"e_1_2_11_31_1","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"351","DOI":"10.1016\/S0165-0173(01)00160-6","article-title":"The biology of the opioid growth factor receptor (OGFr)","volume":"38","author":"Zagon IS","year":"2002","journal-title":"Brain Res Rev"},{"key":"e_1_2_11_32_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1046\/j.1365\u20102133.1998.02557.x"},{"key":"e_1_2_11_33_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1016\/j.biopha.2018.07.146"},{"key":"e_1_2_11_34_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1111\/j.1600\u20100625.1997.tb00166.x"},{"key":"e_1_2_11_35_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1016\/j.bcp.2015.06.016"},{"key":"e_1_2_11_36_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1016\/S0924\u20102031(01)00142\u20104"},{"key":"e_1_2_11_37_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1046\/j.1523\u20101747.2000.00091.x"},{"key":"e_1_2_11_38_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1002\/advs.202505619"},{"key":"e_1_2_11_39_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1016\/j.aadr.2024.115478"},{"key":"e_1_2_11_40_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1080\/10408398.2013.834874"},{"key":"e_1_2_11_41_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.3390\/nu16152526"},{"key":"e_1_2_11_42_1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.3390\/pharmaceutics18030375"}],"container-title":["International Journal of Cosmetic Science"],"original-title":[],"language":"en","link":[{"URL":"https:\/\/onlinelibrary.wiley.com\/doi\/pdf\/10.1111\/ics.70138","content-type":"application\/pdf","content-version":"vor","intended-application":"text-mining"},{"URL":"https:\/\/onlinelibrary.wiley.com\/doi\/full-xml\/10.1111\/ics.70138","content-type":"application\/xml","content-version":"vor","intended-application":"text-mining"},{"URL":"https:\/\/onlinelibrary.wiley.com\/doi\/pdf\/10.1111\/ics.70138","content-type":"unspecified","content-version":"vor","intended-application":"similarity-checking"}],"deposited":{"date-parts":[[2026,9,5]],"date-time":"2026-09-05T05:47:09Z","timestamp":1788587229000},"score":1,"resource":{"primary":{"URL":"https:\/\/onlinelibrary.wiley.com\/doi\/10.1111\/ics.70138"}},"subtitle":[],"short-title":[],"issued":{"date-parts":[[2026,9,4]]},"references-count":41,"alternative-id":["10.1111\/ics.70138"],"URL":"https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1111\/ics.70138","archive":["Portico"],"relation":{},"ISSN":["0142-5463","1468-2494"],"issn-type":[{"value":"0142-5463","type":"print"},{"value":"1468-2494","type":"electronic"}],"subject":[],"published":{"date-parts":[[2026,9,4]]},"assertion":[{"value":"2026-07-02","order":0,"name":"received","label":"Received","group":{"name":"publication_history","label":"Publication History"}},{"value":"2026-07-27","order":2,"name":"accepted","label":"Accepted","group":{"name":"publication_history","label":"Publication History"}},{"value":"2026-09-04","order":3,"name":"published","label":"Published","group":{"name":"publication_history","label":"Publication History"}}],"article-number":"ics.70138"}}