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Its mechanical behaviour is intricate and includes conformational changes, notably the transition of keratin from \u03b1-helix to \u03b2-sheet structures. However, the precise conditions under which this transition occurs during stress\u2013strain experiments and the influence of humidity on this process remain unresolved. In this study we use two structurally sensitive methods, Raman spectroscopy and wide-angle X-ray scattering (WAXS), to study the changes in situ as a function of strain under controlled conditions of humidity. The results are analysed by two-dimensional correlation methods, two-dimensional correlation spectroscopy (2D-COS) and perturbation correlation moving window two-dimensional correlation spectroscopy (PCMW2D), which clearly relate molecular changes to the strain. The results show for the first time for both methods, that two main \u03b1-helix to \u03b2-sheet transitions are generally observed, and that these shifts in position with changing humidity. Also, these transitions go via a disordered state. It is concluded that water modifies the matrix of the hair, which then determines at what strain the intermediate filaments unfold. These results are discussed in terms of the present proposed models of hair mechanical behaviour.<\/jats:p>","DOI":"10.1177\/00037028261457150","type":"journal-article","created":{"date-parts":[[2026,5,26]],"date-time":"2026-05-26T07:48:36Z","timestamp":1779781716000},"page":"1063-1077","update-policy":"https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1177\/sage-journals-update-policy","source":"Crossref","is-referenced-by-count":1,"title":["Structure Evolution in Hair Fibres During Strain and the Effect of Relative Humidity"],"prefix":"10.1177","volume":"80","author":[{"ORCID":"https:\/\/orcid.org\/0000-0002-9708-6968","authenticated-orcid":false,"given":"Paul D.A.","family":"Pudney","sequence":"first","affiliation":[{"name":"Unilever R&amp;D, Port Sunlight Laboratory, Port Sunlight, Wirral CH63 3JW, UK"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"ORCID":"https:\/\/orcid.org\/0000-0002-6340-7903","authenticated-orcid":false,"given":"Adrian","family":"Voda","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"\u201cHoria Hulubei\u201d National Institute for Physics and Nuclear Engineering (IFIN-HH)"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"ORCID":"https:\/\/orcid.org\/0009-0008-2890-8463","authenticated-orcid":false,"given":"Kenneth S.","family":"Lee","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Unilever R&amp;D, Port Sunlight Laboratory, Port Sunlight, Wirral CH63 3JW, UK"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"ORCID":"https:\/\/orcid.org\/0009-0005-3836-3645","authenticated-orcid":false,"given":"David","family":"Tiemessen","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Unilever R&amp;D, Port Sunlight Laboratory, Port Sunlight, Wirral CH63 3JW, UK"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"ORCID":"https:\/\/orcid.org\/0000-0002-6178-772X","authenticated-orcid":false,"given":"Christopher","family":"Marsh","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Unilever R&amp;D, Port Sunlight Laboratory, Port Sunlight, Wirral CH63 3JW, UK"},{"name":"School of Chemistry, University of Leicester, Leicester LE1 7RH, UK"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]}],"member":"179","published-online":{"date-parts":[[2026,7,8]]},"reference":[{"key":"e_1_3_3_2_2","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1016\/j.pmatsci.2015.06.001"},{"key":"e_1_3_3_3_2","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1016\/j.isci.2021.102798"},{"key":"e_1_3_3_4_2","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1039\/b604537p"},{"key":"e_1_3_3_5_2","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1007\/978-3-642-25611-0"},{"key":"e_1_3_3_6_2","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1016\/j.jsb.2014.01.010"},{"key":"e_1_3_3_7_2","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1039\/C6CP06772G"},{"issue":"681","key":"e_1_3_3_8_2","first-page":"75","article-title":"\u201cX-ray Studies of the Structure of Hair, Wool, and Related Fibres. 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