{"status":"ok","message-type":"work","message-version":"1.0.0","message":{"indexed":{"date-parts":[[2025,1,28]],"date-time":"2025-01-28T05:48:59Z","timestamp":1738043339694,"version":"3.33.0"},"reference-count":35,"publisher":"SAGE Publications","issue":"15","license":[{"start":{"date-parts":[[2010,3,18]],"date-time":"2010-03-18T00:00:00Z","timestamp":1268870400000},"content-version":"tdm","delay-in-days":0,"URL":"https:\/\/journals.sagepub.com\/page\/policies\/text-and-data-mining-license"}],"content-domain":{"domain":[],"crossmark-restriction":false},"short-container-title":["Textile Research Journal"],"published-print":{"date-parts":[[2010,9]]},"abstract":"<jats:p> Dyeing faults in linen fabrics are common owing to the presence of residual lignin and pectin. Their elimination is carried out, most commonly, using alkaline methods that can damage fibers. Here we report a new enzymatic pretreatment that is more selective and ecological. Accordingly, three enzymes were tested in several concentration combinations: Viscozyme L, a carbohydrate-enzyme; Pectinex Ultra S-PL, a pectolytic enzyme; and NovoSample NS51003, a laccase from Aspergillus sp. Runs were settled by a three-factor Central Composite Design. Afterwards, the samples were dyed using a direct dye (CI Direct Blue 86) to evaluate the dyeability of the treated fabrics. The lightness variation (\u0394 L) and color differences (\u0394 E) were selected as the design responses and were analyzed using the response surface methodology. The phloroglucinol assay was applied to confirm the lignin degradation. Moreover, the results showed that a one-step enzymatic treatment using the three selected enzymes lead to a higher dye uptake (\u0394 L = \u20142.20) and lower color differences (\u0394 E = 0.64), compared with the non-treated sample (control: \u0394 L = 0 and \u0394 E = 2.732), using a cocktail of the three enzymes in a proportion of 3.9 ml\/l of Viscozyme L, 2.34 ml\/l of Pectinex Ultra SPL and 4.35ml\/l of NS51003 laccase. Under these conditions the linen fabrics showed an important improvement in color uniformity after dyeing with the selected direct dye. <\/jats:p>","DOI":"10.1177\/0040517510363186","type":"journal-article","created":{"date-parts":[[2010,3,19]],"date-time":"2010-03-19T02:07:50Z","timestamp":1268964470000},"page":"1602-1615","source":"Crossref","is-referenced-by-count":4,"title":["Enzymatic Treatments to Improve the Dyeability of Linen Fabrics: Optimization and Empirical Modeling using Experimental Design Techniques"],"prefix":"10.1177","volume":"80","author":[{"given":"Isabel Cristina","family":"Gouveia","sequence":"first","affiliation":[{"name":"Departamento C.T. T\u00eaxteis, Universidade da Beira Interior, 6201-001 Covilh\u00e3-Portugal, R&D Unidade de Materiais T\u00eaxteis e Papeleiros, Qu\u00edmica, Universidade da Beira Interior, 6201-001 Covilh\u00e3-Portugal,"}]},{"given":"Liliana P.","family":"Dias","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Departamento C.T. T\u00eaxteis, Universidade da Beira Interior, 6201-001 Covilh\u00e3-Portugal"}]},{"given":"Jos\u00e9 Miguel","family":"Fiadeiro","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Departamento C.T. T\u00eaxteis, Universidade da Beira Interior, 6201-001 Covilh\u00e3-Portugal, R&D Unidade de Materiais T\u00eaxteis e Papeleiros, Qu\u00edmica, Universidade da Beira Interior, 6201-001 Covilh\u00e3-Portugal"}]},{"given":"Jo\u00e3o Ant\u00f3nio","family":"Queiroz","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Departamento de Qu\u00edmica, Universidade da Beira Interior, 6201-001 Covilh\u00e3-Portugal, Centro de Investiga\u00e7\u00e3o em Ci\u00eancias da Sa\u00fade, Qu\u00edmica, Universidade da Beira Interior, 6201-001 Covilh\u00e3-Portugal"}]}],"member":"179","published-online":{"date-parts":[[2010,3,18]]},"reference":[{"key":"atypb1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1016\/S0168-1656(01)00298-X"},{"key":"atypb2","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1111\/j.1478-4408.2008.00144.x"},{"key":"atypb3","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1146\/annurev.cellbio.13.1.171"},{"key":"atypb4","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1111\/j.1365-313X.1993.tb00007.x"},{"key":"atypb5","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1104\/pp.113.1.1"},{"key":"atypb6","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1128\/MMBR.65.4.497-522.2001"},{"key":"atypb7","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1016\/j.procbio.2005.03.026"},{"key":"atypb8","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1016\/S0926-6690(02)00053-5"},{"issue":"4","key":"atypb9","first-page":"386","volume":"37","author":"Sharma, H.S.S.","year":"2005","journal-title":"Technol."},{"key":"atypb10","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1016\/j.indcrop.2004.04.001"},{"key":"atypb11","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1016\/S0168-1656(00)00286-8"},{"key":"atypb12","first-page":"177","volume":"34","author":"Ossola, M.","year":"2004","journal-title":"Technol."},{"key":"atypb13","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1016\/S0926-6690(00)00081-9"},{"key":"atypb14","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1016\/S0168-1656(01)00299-1"},{"key":"atypb15","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1016\/S0926-6690(99)00044-8"},{"key":"atypb16","first-page":"262","volume":"43","author":"Dhiman, S.S.","year":"2008","journal-title":"Technol."},{"key":"atypb17","first-page":"1373","volume":"39","author":"Kernaghan, K.","year":"2006","journal-title":"Technol."},{"key":"atypb18","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1080\/10242420400024524"},{"key":"atypb19","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1177\/0040517505053812"},{"key":"atypb20","first-page":"157","volume":"41","author":"Gouveia, I.C.","year":"2008","journal-title":"J."},{"key":"atypb21","first-page":"761","volume":"28","author":"Kozlowski, R.","year":"2006","journal-title":"Lett."},{"key":"atypb22","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1016\/j.bej.2006.08.009"},{"volume-title":"\"Statistics for Experimenters: An Introduction to Design, Data Analysis and Model Building\"","year":"1978","author":"Box, G. 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Pilling Resistance by Martindale Tester."},{"key":"atypb29","unstructured":"Billmeyer, F.W. , and Saltzman, M. \"Principles of Color Technology\", 2nd edn, John Wiley & Sons, New York, 1981, p. 25."},{"key":"atypb30","first-page":"426","volume":"31","author":"Miller, G.L.","year":"1959","journal-title":"Chem."},{"key":"atypb31","unstructured":"International Standard TAPPI T401 om-88. Fiber analysis of paper and paperboard, pp. 1-12."},{"key":"atypb32","unstructured":"International Standard ISO 105-X12:2001. 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