{"status":"ok","message-type":"work","message-version":"1.0.0","message":{"indexed":{"date-parts":[[2026,10,31]],"date-time":"2026-10-31T03:14:24Z","timestamp":1793416464015,"version":"4.5.0"},"reference-count":36,"publisher":"Springer Science and Business Media LLC","issue":"1","license":[{"start":{"date-parts":[[2024,11,19]],"date-time":"2024-11-19T00:00:00Z","timestamp":1731974400000},"content-version":"tdm","delay-in-days":0,"URL":"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by\/4.0"},{"start":{"date-parts":[[2024,11,19]],"date-time":"2024-11-19T00:00:00Z","timestamp":1731974400000},"content-version":"vor","delay-in-days":0,"URL":"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by\/4.0"}],"funder":[{"name":"Joe and Clara Tsai Foundation","award":["Joe and Clara Tsai Foundation"],"award-info":[{"award-number":["Joe and Clara Tsai Foundation"]}]},{"name":"Wu Tsai Human Performance Initiative","award":["Wu Tsai Human Performance Initiative"],"award-info":[{"award-number":["Wu Tsai Human Performance Initiative"]}]}],"content-domain":{"domain":["link.springer.com"],"crossmark-restriction":false},"short-container-title":["Sports Med - Open"],"abstract":"<jats:title>Abstract<\/jats:title><jats:sec>\n                <jats:title>Background<\/jats:title>\n                <jats:p>Climbing places high loads through the hands and fingers, and climbers may benefit from specific finger strength training (hangboarding) protocols. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effect of a 10-minute low intensity hangboard finger strengthening protocol (\u201cAbrahangs\u201d), compared with the generally accepted Max Hangs protocol for training maximal grip strength.<\/jats:p>\n              <\/jats:sec><jats:sec>\n                <jats:title>Methods<\/jats:title>\n                <jats:p>We retrospectively evaluated the change in grip strength and Strength: Weight following Max Hangs, Abrahangs, or the two protocols performed concurrently in rock climbers who used the Crimpd app to log their training. Users who had completed two finger strength tests within a 4\u201316-week period were included. Climbers were grouped by the number of training sessions into: \u201cClimbing Only\u201d, \u201cAbrahangs Only\u201d, \u201cMax Hangs Only\u201d and \u201cBoth\u201d Max Hangs and Abrahangs.<\/jats:p>\n              <\/jats:sec><jats:sec>\n                <jats:title>Results<\/jats:title>\n                <jats:p>Frequent low intensity finger loading was as effective at improving grip strength in climbers as training with maximal loads. Additionally, combining low intensity and maximal load training resulted in additive strength gains.<\/jats:p>\n              <\/jats:sec><jats:sec>\n                <jats:title>Conclusions<\/jats:title>\n                <jats:p>These results suggest that low-intensity long duration holds provide a promising training paradigm for training finger strength that is gentle enough to incorporate into existing training programs.<\/jats:p>\n              <\/jats:sec>","DOI":"10.1186\/s40798-024-00793-7","type":"journal-article","created":{"date-parts":[[2024,11,19]],"date-time":"2024-11-19T11:22:03Z","timestamp":1732015323000},"update-policy":"https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1007\/springer_crossmark_policy","source":"Crossref","is-referenced-by-count":6,"title":["Effects of Different Loading Programs on Finger Strength in Rock Climbers"],"prefix":"10.1186","volume":"10","author":[{"given":"Natalie K.","family":"Gilmore","sequence":"first","affiliation":[],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"given":"Peter","family":"Klimek","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"given":"Emil","family":"Abrahamsson","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"ORCID":"https:\/\/orcid.org\/0000-0001-9337-6186","authenticated-orcid":false,"given":"Keith","family":"Baar","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]}],"member":"297","published-online":{"date-parts":[[2024,11,19]]},"reference":[{"key":"793_CR1","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","first-page":"366","DOI":"10.1007\/s00247-017-4033-4","volume":"48","author":"K Garcia","year":"2018","unstructured":"Garcia K, Jaramillo D, Rubesova E. Ultrasound evaluation of stress injuries and physiological adaptations in the fingers of adolescent competitive rock climbers. Pediatr Radiol. 2018;48:366\u201373.","journal-title":"Pediatr Radiol"},{"key":"793_CR2","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","first-page":"888158","DOI":"10.3389\/fspor.2022.888158","volume":"4","author":"E Hermans","year":"2022","unstructured":"Hermans E, et al. The effects of 10 weeks Hangboard Training on climbing specific maximal strength, explosive strength, and Finger endurance. Front Sports Act Living. 2022;4:888158.","journal-title":"Front Sports Act Living"},{"key":"793_CR3","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","first-page":"435","DOI":"10.1016\/j.wem.2023.06.004","volume":"34","author":"AE Sj\u00f6man","year":"2023","unstructured":"Sj\u00f6man AE, Gr\u00f8nhaug G, Julin MV. A finger in the game: Sport-Specific Finger Strength Training and Onset of Injury. 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The Medical Ethics Committee at Maastricht University confirmed \u201cthat the Medical Research Involving Human Subjects Act (WMO) does not apply to the study and an official approval of this study is not required.\u201d\u00a0This decision reflected the fact that the participants had consented to data use and no identifiable health information was used.","order":2,"name":"Ethics","group":{"name":"EthicsHeading","label":"Ethics Approval and Consent to Participate"}},{"value":"All authors approved the final version.","order":3,"name":"Ethics","group":{"name":"EthicsHeading","label":"Consent for Publication"}},{"value":"The funder had no role in the design or testing of the hypothesis. EA is the creator of the Abrahangs protocol and PK is designer of the Crimpd App.","order":4,"name":"Ethics","group":{"name":"EthicsHeading","label":"Competing Interests"}}],"article-number":"125"}}