{"status":"ok","message-type":"work","message-version":"1.0.0","message":{"indexed":{"date-parts":[[2026,1,31]],"date-time":"2026-01-31T17:37:52Z","timestamp":1769881072678,"version":"3.49.0"},"reference-count":39,"publisher":"Springer Science and Business Media LLC","issue":"1","license":[{"start":{"date-parts":[[2023,10,17]],"date-time":"2023-10-17T00:00:00Z","timestamp":1697500800000},"content-version":"tdm","delay-in-days":0,"URL":"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by\/4.0"},{"start":{"date-parts":[[2023,10,17]],"date-time":"2023-10-17T00:00:00Z","timestamp":1697500800000},"content-version":"vor","delay-in-days":0,"URL":"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by\/4.0"}],"funder":[{"DOI":"10.13039\/501100001871","name":"Funda\u00e7\u00e3o para a Ci\u00eancia e a Tecnologia","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","award":["UIDB\/50006\/2020"],"award-info":[{"award-number":["UIDB\/50006\/2020"]}],"id":[{"id":"10.13039\/501100001871","id-type":"DOI","asserted-by":"publisher"}]},{"DOI":"10.13039\/501100001871","name":"Funda\u00e7\u00e3o para a Ci\u00eancia e a Tecnologia","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","award":["UIDB\/50006\/2020"],"award-info":[{"award-number":["UIDB\/50006\/2020"]}],"id":[{"id":"10.13039\/501100001871","id-type":"DOI","asserted-by":"publisher"}]},{"DOI":"10.13039\/501100001871","name":"Funda\u00e7\u00e3o para a Ci\u00eancia e a Tecnologia","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","award":["CEECIND\/00025\/2018\/CP1545\/CT0009"],"award-info":[{"award-number":["CEECIND\/00025\/2018\/CP1545\/CT0009"]}],"id":[{"id":"10.13039\/501100001871","id-type":"DOI","asserted-by":"publisher"}]},{"DOI":"10.13039\/100010665","name":"H2020 Marie Sk\u0142odowska-Curie Actions","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","award":["656748"],"award-info":[{"award-number":["656748"]}],"id":[{"id":"10.13039\/100010665","id-type":"DOI","asserted-by":"publisher"}]},{"name":"Stiftelsen Agnes Geijers fond","award":["FS2019-0056"],"award-info":[{"award-number":["FS2019-0056"]}]},{"DOI":"10.13039\/100011250","name":"Society of Antiquaries of London","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","award":["Janet Arnold Award"],"award-info":[{"award-number":["Janet Arnold Award"]}],"id":[{"id":"10.13039\/100011250","id-type":"DOI","asserted-by":"publisher"}]},{"name":"Royal Library, Copenhagen University Library"}],"content-domain":{"domain":["link.springer.com"],"crossmark-restriction":false},"short-container-title":["Herit Sci"],"abstract":"<jats:title>Abstract<\/jats:title>\n          <jats:p>The knitted cap was the ubiquitous and most visible garment men wore throughout early modern society, from apprentices to royals. Documentary evidence also suggests that red was a conventional color for specific garments in the sixteenth century, including knitted caps. However, most knitted caps in museum collections are now a muddy brown characteristic of archaeological textiles, and their original color has seldom been studied. Considering the potential of microspectrofluorimetry for analyzing dyes in ancient textiles and manuscript illuminations, this technique was tested on six caps dating from the fifteenth to sixteenth centuries examined in the <jats:italic>Knitting in Early Modern Europe<\/jats:italic> research project. The colors are in good preservation condition in two samples, whereas the others show extensive degradation. The emission and excitation spectra acquired allowed the identification of the similarities and differences between samples, grouping them into different dye sources such as cochineal-based and madder-based (RED1 and RED2, respectively). For the coif cap and split-brimmed cap in good condition, analysis through HPLC\u2013MS confirmed the sources of the dyes as <jats:italic>Rubia tinctorum<\/jats:italic> and cochineal. It also disclosed the source for another coif cap as <jats:italic>Kermes vermilio<\/jats:italic> (RED4). The other knitted items are possibly madder-based (RED3), but HPLC\u2013MS did not allow confirmation of the madder source. The continuing development of a database of excitation and emission spectra acquired from historical textiles, such as the knitted caps, will support the identification of dye sources and specific formulations. Although this technique demands a comprehensive database of references for comparison with the complex signals identified, it allows for rapid spectra acquisition, providing tremendously valuable information.<\/jats:p>","DOI":"10.1186\/s40494-023-01020-4","type":"journal-article","created":{"date-parts":[[2023,10,17]],"date-time":"2023-10-17T08:02:58Z","timestamp":1697529778000},"update-policy":"https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1007\/springer_crossmark_policy","source":"Crossref","is-referenced-by-count":3,"title":["Early modern knitted caps (fifteenth to sixteenth centuries): analyzing dyes in archaeological samples using microspectrofluorimetry complemented by HPLC\u2013MS"],"prefix":"10.1186","volume":"11","author":[{"given":"Paula","family":"Nabais","sequence":"first","affiliation":[]},{"given":"Jane","family":"Malcolm-Davies","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[]},{"given":"Maria Jo\u00e3o","family":"Melo","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[]},{"given":"Nat\u00e9rcia","family":"Teixeira","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[]},{"given":"Beatrice","family":"Behlen","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[]}],"member":"297","published-online":{"date-parts":[[2023,10,17]]},"reference":[{"key":"1020_CR1","first-page":"59","volume-title":"The royal exchange","author":"K Staniland","year":"1997","unstructured":"Staniland K. Thomas Deane\u2019s shop in the royal exchange. In: Saunders A, editor. The royal exchange, vol. 52. London: London Topographical Society Publication; 1997. p. 59\u201367."},{"key":"1020_CR2","first-page":"19","volume-title":"Inventories of Worcester tradesmen in Miscellany II, new series 5","author":"A Dyer","year":"1967","unstructured":"Dyer A. Inventories of Worcester tradesmen in Miscellany II, new series 5. Worcestershire Historical Society; 1967. p. 19\u201321."},{"key":"1020_CR3","unstructured":"Rosetti G. The Plictho: instructions in the art of the dyers which teaches the dyeing of woolen cloths, linens, cottons, and silk by the great art as well as by the common\u2026 Edelstein S, Borghetty H, editors. Cambridge: MIT Press; 1548\/1969, p. 105\u2013106."},{"key":"1020_CR4","first-page":"97","volume-title":"Dressing up: cultural identity in renaissance Europe","author":"U Rublack","year":"2010","unstructured":"Rublack U. Dressing up: cultural identity in renaissance Europe. Oxford: Oxford University Press; 2010. p. 97."},{"key":"1020_CR5","first-page":"34","volume-title":"The Tudor child: clothing and culture 1485 to 1625","author":"J Huggett","year":"2013","unstructured":"Huggett J, Mikhaila N. Small boys and youths. In: Malcolm-Davies J, editor. The Tudor child: clothing and culture 1485 to 1625. Lightwater: Fat Goose Press; 2013. p. 34."},{"key":"1020_CR6","volume-title":"A dietary of health","author":"A Borde","year":"1542","unstructured":"Borde A. A dietary of health. London: Thomas Colwell; 1542."},{"key":"1020_CR7","unstructured":"Ringgaard M, Scharff A. The impact of dyes and natural pigmentation of wool on the preservation of archaeological textiles. In: Andersson Strand E, Gleba M, Mannering U, Munkholt C, Ringgaard M, editors. North European Symposium for Archaeological Textiles X. Oxford: Oxbow Books. 2010; p. 221\u2013224, 221."},{"key":"1020_CR8","unstructured":"Malcolm-Davies J. Knitting in Early Modern Europe (KEME); 2023. https:\/\/kemeresearch.com. Accessed 19 Feb 2023."},{"key":"1020_CR9","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","first-page":"209","DOI":"10.1016\/j.chroma.2005.11.019","volume":"1112","author":"I Surowiec","year":"2006","unstructured":"Surowiec I, Quye A, Trojanowicz M. Liquid chromatography determination of natural dyes in extracts from historical Scottish textiles excavated from peat bogs. J Chrom A. 2006;1112:209\u201317.","journal-title":"J Chrom A"},{"key":"1020_CR10","unstructured":"Anon. Clothes relics of the Tudor period. Linlithgow Gazette; 1904. p. 7."},{"key":"1020_CR11","first-page":"57","volume":"58","author":"J Malcolm-Davies","year":"2016","unstructured":"Malcolm-Davies J. An Early Modern mystery: a pilot study of knitting, napping and capping. Arch Tex Rev. 2016;58:57\u201374.","journal-title":"Arch Tex Rev"},{"key":"1020_CR12","first-page":"163","volume-title":"The Typical Tudor: reconstructing everyday 16th century dress","author":"J Malcolm-Davies","year":"2023","unstructured":"Malcolm-Davies J, Mikhaila N. The Typical Tudor: reconstructing everyday 16th century dress. Lightwater: Fat Goose Press; 2023. p. 163."},{"key":"1020_CR13","first-page":"224","volume-title":"Conservation and Restoration of Textiles: International Conference, Como","author":"E Maeder","year":"1980","unstructured":"Maeder E. The restoration of a 16th century Swiss mercenary soldier\u2019s costume in the Historical Museum, Bern, Switzerland. In: Pertegato F, editor. Conservation and Restoration of Textiles: International Conference, Como. Milan: CISST; 1980. p. 224\u20138."},{"key":"1020_CR14","first-page":"5","volume-title":"Essex wills: the archdeaconry courts 1583\u20131592, publication","author":"F Emmison","year":"1989","unstructured":"Emmison F. Essex wills: the archdeaconry courts 1583\u20131592, publication, vol. 101. Chelmsford: Essex Record Office, Publication; 1989. p. 5."},{"key":"1020_CR15","unstructured":"Van Heemskerck M. Portrait of a Young Student, Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen, Rotterdam, Netherlands; 1531. www.boijmans.nl\/en\/collection\/artworks\/2821\/portrait-of-a-young-student. Accessed 3 Feb 2023."},{"issue":"2","key":"1020_CR16","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","first-page":"187","DOI":"10.1179\/004049606x132096","volume":"37","author":"D Peacock","year":"2006","unstructured":"Peacock D. Dyeing Winchcombe kersies and other kersey cloth in 16th century Newbury. Tex Hist. 2006;37(2):187\u2013202.","journal-title":"Tex Hist"},{"key":"1020_CR17","unstructured":"National Archives of Scotland, PA5\/6(1), f. 42r-48r, Records of the Parliament of Scotland to 1707, 1458\/3\/14. https:\/\/www.rps.ac.uk\/trans\/1458\/3\/12. Accessed 31 Mar 2020."},{"key":"1020_CR18","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","first-page":"1910","DOI":"10.1016\/j.jas.2009.04.019","volume":"36","author":"I Vanden Berghe","year":"2009","unstructured":"Vanden Berghe I, Gleba M, Mannering U. Towards the identification of dyestuffs in early Iron Age Scandinavian peat bog textiles. J Arch Sci. 2009;36:1910\u201321.","journal-title":"J Arch Sci"},{"issue":"10","key":"1020_CR19","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","first-page":"1","DOI":"10.1371\/journal.pone.0204699","volume":"13","author":"J Dyer","year":"2018","unstructured":"Dyer J, Tamburini D, O\u2019Connell ER, Harrison A. A multispectral imaging approach integrated into the study of Late Antique textiles from Egypt. PLoS ONE. 2018;13(10):1\u201333.","journal-title":"PLoS ONE"},{"key":"1020_CR20","unstructured":"Ballard M, Mina L, Hacke M, Speakman R. Portable and Micro-XRF: non-destructive approaches to screen textiles and identify[ing] Mordants, poster presented at the 30th annual Dyes in History and Archaeology meeting, October 13\u201314, Derby, UK; 2011."},{"issue":"5","key":"1020_CR21","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","first-page":"363","DOI":"10.1080\/05704920902937876","volume":"44","author":"I Degano","year":"2009","unstructured":"Degano I, Ribechini E, Modugno F, Colombini M. Analytical methods for the characterization of organic dyes in artworks and in historical textiles. App Spec Rev. 2009;44(5):363\u2013410. https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1080\/05704920902937876.","journal-title":"App Spec Rev"},{"key":"1020_CR22","unstructured":"Walton P. The textiles. In: Harbottle B, Ellison M, editors. An excavation in the castle ditch, Newcastle upon Tyne, 1974\u201376, Archaeologia Aeliana, 1981; series 5, vol 9: p. 190\u2013228, 198."},{"key":"1020_CR23","unstructured":"Botticello J. The conservation of two Tudor knitted woollen flat caps, unpublished undergraduate thesis, Camberwell College, London, 2003, appendix IV."},{"key":"1020_CR24","volume-title":"Natural dyes: sources, tradition, technology and science","author":"D Cardon","year":"2007","unstructured":"Cardon D. Natural dyes: sources, tradition, technology and science. London: Archetype Publications; 2007. (ISBN: 190498200x)."},{"key":"1020_CR25","volume-title":"Natural colorants for dyeing and lake pigments: practical recipes and their historical sources","author":"J Kirby","year":"2014","unstructured":"Kirby J, van Bommel M, Verhecken A. Natural colorants for dyeing and lake pigments: practical recipes and their historical sources. London: Archetype Publications Ltd in association with CHARISMA; 2014. (ISBN: 78-1909492158)."},{"issue":"6","key":"1020_CR26","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","first-page":"857","DOI":"10.1021\/ar9001894","volume":"43","author":"MJ Melo","year":"2010","unstructured":"Melo MJ, Claro A. Bright light: microspectrofluorimetry for the characterization of lake pigments and dyes in works of art. Acc Chem Res. 2010;43(6):857\u201366. https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1021\/ar9001894.","journal-title":"Acc Chem Res"},{"issue":"4","key":"1020_CR27","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","first-page":"922","DOI":"10.1016\/j.talanta.2007.07.036","volume":"74","author":"A Claro","year":"2008","unstructured":"Claro A, Melo MJ, Sch\u00e4fer S, Seixas de Melo JS, Pina F, van den Berg KJ, Burnstock A. The use of microspectrofluorimetry for the characterization of lake pigments. Talanta. 2008;74(4):922\u20139. https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1016\/j.talanta.2007.07.036.","journal-title":"Talanta"},{"key":"1020_CR28","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","first-page":"27","DOI":"10.1016\/j.culher.2009.03.006","volume":"11","author":"A Claro","year":"2010","unstructured":"Claro A, Melo MJ, Seixas de Melo JS, van den Berg KJ, Burnstock A, Montague M, Newman R. Identification of red colourants in van Gogh paintings and ancient andean textiles by microspectrofluorimetry. J Cult Herit. 2010;11:27\u201334. https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1016\/j.culher.2009.03.006.","journal-title":"J Cult Herit"},{"key":"1020_CR29","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","first-page":"1172","DOI":"10.1002\/jrs.4608","volume":"45","author":"R Castro","year":"2014","unstructured":"Castro R, Pozzi F, Leona M, Melo MJ. Combining SERS and microspectrofluorimetry with historically accurate reconstructions for the characterization of lac dye paints in medieval manuscript illuminations. J Raman Spectrosc. 2014;45:1172\u20139. https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1002\/jrs.4608.","journal-title":"J Raman Spectrosc"},{"key":"1020_CR30","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","first-page":"1","DOI":"10.1186\/s40494-018-0178-1","volume":"6","author":"P Nabais","year":"2018","unstructured":"Nabais P, Melo MJ, Lopes JA, Vitorino T, Neves A, Castro R. Microspectrofluorimetry and chemometrics for the identification of medieval lake pigments. Herit Sci. 2018;6:1\u20131.","journal-title":"Herit Sci"},{"issue":"1","key":"1020_CR31","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","first-page":"1","DOI":"10.1186\/s40494-021-00490-8","volume":"9","author":"P Nabais","year":"2021","unstructured":"Nabais P, Melo MJ, Lopes JA, Vieira M, Castro R, Romani A. Organic colorants based on lac dye and brazilwood as markers for a chronology and geography of medieval scriptoria: a chemometrics approach. Herit Sci. 2021;9(1):1\u20138.","journal-title":"Herit Sci"},{"key":"1020_CR32","unstructured":"Claro A. An interdisciplinary approach to the study of colour in Portuguese manuscript illuminations. Doctoral dissertation. Lisbon: Universidade Nova de Lisboa, Faculdade de Ci\u00eancias e Tecnologia; 2009."},{"key":"1020_CR33","unstructured":"Castro R. The book of birds in Portuguese scriptoria: preservation and access. Doctoral dissertation. Lisbon: Universidade Nova de Lisboa, Faculdade de Ci\u00eancias e Tecnologia; 2016."},{"key":"1020_CR34","unstructured":"Nabais P. Identity and connections within medieval heritage: color in the illuminated manuscript through the eyes of the molecular sciences and humanities. Doctoral dissertation. Lisbon: Universidade Nova de Lisboa, Faculdade de Ci\u00eancias e Tecnologia; 2019."},{"key":"1020_CR35","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","DOI":"10.1002\/9783527650002","volume-title":"Molecular fluorescence: principles and applications","author":"B Valeur","year":"2012","unstructured":"Valeur B, Berberan-Santos MN. Molecular fluorescence: principles and applications. 2nd ed. Weinheim: Wiley; 2012.","edition":"2"},{"key":"1020_CR36","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","first-page":"2022","DOI":"10.1021\/ac048380k","volume":"77","author":"X Zhang","year":"2005","unstructured":"Zhang X, Laursen R. Development of mild extraction methods for the analysis of natural dyes in textiles of historical interest using LC-diode array detector-MS. Anal Chem. 2005;77:2022\u20135. https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1021\/ac048380k.","journal-title":"Anal Chem"},{"key":"1020_CR37","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","first-page":"108","DOI":"10.1016\/j.culher.2020.04.011","volume":"46","author":"K Lech","year":"2020","unstructured":"Lech K. Universal analytical method for characterization of yellow and related natural dyes in liturgical vestments from Krakow. J Cult Herit. 2020;46:108\u201318.","journal-title":"J Cult Herit"},{"key":"1020_CR38","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","first-page":"58","DOI":"10.1016\/j.aca.2019.07.009","volume":"1083","author":"M Shahid","year":"2019","unstructured":"Shahid M, Wertz J, Degano I, Aceto M. Mohd Ibrahim Khan, Anita Quye, Analytical methods for determination of anthraquinone dyes in historical textiles: A review. Anal Chim Acta. 2019;1083:58\u201387. https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1016\/j.aca.2019.07.009.","journal-title":"Anal Chim Acta"},{"key":"1020_CR39","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","first-page":"191","DOI":"10.1016\/j.dyepig.2007.05.007","volume":"77","author":"L Rafa\u00eblly","year":"2008","unstructured":"Rafa\u00eblly L, H\u00e9ron S, Nowik W, Tchapla A. Optimisation of ESI-MS detection for the HPLC of anthraquinone dyes. Dyes Pigments. 2008;77:191\u2013203. https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1016\/j.dyepig.2007.05.007.","journal-title":"Dyes Pigments"}],"container-title":["Heritage Science"],"original-title":[],"language":"en","link":[{"URL":"https:\/\/www.nature.com\/articles\/s40494-023-01020-4.pdf","content-type":"application\/pdf","content-version":"vor","intended-application":"text-mining"},{"URL":"https:\/\/www.nature.com\/articles\/s40494-023-01020-4","content-type":"text\/html","content-version":"vor","intended-application":"text-mining"},{"URL":"https:\/\/www.nature.com\/articles\/s40494-023-01020-4.pdf","content-type":"application\/pdf","content-version":"vor","intended-application":"similarity-checking"}],"deposited":{"date-parts":[[2025,2,10]],"date-time":"2025-02-10T16:47:57Z","timestamp":1739206077000},"score":1,"resource":{"primary":{"URL":"https:\/\/www.nature.com\/articles\/s40494-023-01020-4"}},"subtitle":[],"short-title":[],"issued":{"date-parts":[[2023,10,17]]},"references-count":39,"journal-issue":{"issue":"1","published-online":{"date-parts":[[2023,12]]}},"alternative-id":["1020"],"URL":"https:\/\/doi.org\/10.1186\/s40494-023-01020-4","relation":{},"ISSN":["2050-7445"],"issn-type":[{"value":"2050-7445","type":"electronic"}],"subject":[],"published":{"date-parts":[[2023,10,17]]},"assertion":[{"value":"10 March 2023","order":1,"name":"received","label":"Received","group":{"name":"ArticleHistory","label":"Article History"}},{"value":"5 August 2023","order":2,"name":"accepted","label":"Accepted","group":{"name":"ArticleHistory","label":"Article History"}},{"value":"17 October 2023","order":3,"name":"first_online","label":"First Online","group":{"name":"ArticleHistory","label":"Article History"}},{"order":1,"name":"Ethics","group":{"name":"EthicsHeading","label":"Declarations"}},{"value":"The authors declare that they have no competing interests.","order":2,"name":"Ethics","group":{"name":"EthicsHeading","label":"Competing interests"}}],"article-number":"220"}}