{"status":"ok","message-type":"work","message-version":"1.0.0","message":{"indexed":{"date-parts":[[2025,5,1]],"date-time":"2025-05-01T04:22:53Z","timestamp":1746073373374,"version":"3.40.4"},"reference-count":14,"publisher":"Intellect","issue":"1","funder":[{"name":"FCT \u2013 Funda\u00e7\u00e3o para a Ci\u00eancia e a Tecnologia, I.P.","award":["PD\/BD\/150542\/2019"],"award-info":[{"award-number":["PD\/BD\/150542\/2019"]}]}],"content-domain":{"domain":[],"crossmark-restriction":false},"short-container-title":[],"published-print":{"date-parts":[[2025,3,1]]},"abstract":"<jats:p>This article examines a design research intervention aimed at revitalizing the critically endangered craft of traditional linen making in Castel\u00f5es, Portugal, through a design-led mediation approach. The study critically reflects on the notion of innovation within traditional industries and explores how collaborative efforts can ensure cultural continuity while adapting to change. The methodology includes identifying cultural and territorial values, engaging local practitioners and co-developing resources to preserve and communicate the heritage of this centuries-old craft. The article discusses how ethnographic research methods have helped foster trust and facilitate dialogue with the community, enabling a participatory framework that aligns design actions with the practice\u2019s cultural identity. Findings indicate that innovation, in this context, is best construed as an adaptive and reflective process, balancing issues of tradition and contemporaneity without imposing design or technological norms. The article further details significant outcomes of the mediation process, including the reactivation of the practice base, the establishment of new community facilities, and the initiation of networks and immersive learning programmes. The intervention highlights the potential of design as a catalyst for positive narrative transformation in declining craft cultures, enabling their integration into contemporary cultural and economic contexts.<\/jats:p>","DOI":"10.1386\/crre_00145_1","type":"journal-article","created":{"date-parts":[[2025,4,30]],"date-time":"2025-04-30T23:35:25Z","timestamp":1746056125000},"page":"11-32","source":"Crossref","is-referenced-by-count":0,"title":["Interpreting innovation and change in traditional Portuguese linen making: A design-led approach"],"prefix":"10.1386","volume":"16","author":[{"ORCID":"https:\/\/orcid.org\/0000-0002-3830-876X","authenticated-orcid":true,"given":"Abhishek","family":"Chatterjee","sequence":"first","affiliation":[{"name":"ISNI: 0000000123236065 University of Aveiro, Portugal"}]},{"ORCID":"https:\/\/orcid.org\/0000-0001-5621-2967","authenticated-orcid":true,"given":"Cristiane","family":"Schifelbein de Menezes","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"ISNI: 0000000123236065 University of Aveiro, Portugal"}]},{"ORCID":"https:\/\/orcid.org\/0000-0001-5025-9481","authenticated-orcid":true,"given":"Nuno","family":"Dias","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"ISNI: 0000000123236065 University of Aveiro, Portugal"}]}],"member":"358","reference":[{"key":"CIT0001","volume-title":"Linho, hist\u00f3rias ao longo de um fio","year":"2019"},{"issue":"1","key":"CIT0002","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"v","DOI":"10.1146\/annurev-an-51-082222-100001","article-title":"Communities of thought","volume":"51","year":"2022","journal-title":"Annual Review of Anthropology"},{"key":"CIT0003","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"15","DOI":"10.1007\/978-3-030-02164-1_2","article-title":"Defining craft: Hermeneutics and economy","volume-title":"A Cultural Economic Analysis of Craft","year":"2019"},{"issue":"2","key":"CIT0004","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"275","DOI":"10.1386\/crre_00029_1","article-title":"Re-inscribing the value of craft in times of dictated obsolescence","volume":"11","year":"2020","journal-title":"Craft Research"},{"issue":"2","key":"CIT0005","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"188","DOI":"10.1108\/JOE-07-2013-0015","article-title":"Stranger and stranger: Creating theory through ethnographic distance and authority","volume":"3","year":"2014","journal-title":"Journal of Organizational Ethnography"},{"issue":"4","key":"CIT0006","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"558","DOI":"10.1177\/1466138110372587","article-title":"Ethnography as participant listening","volume":"11","year":"2010","journal-title":"Ethnography"},{"key":"CIT0007","article-title":"Almalaguez: Tecer o futuro com os fios do passado","year":"2018","journal-title":"Ph.D. dissertation"},{"key":"CIT0013","volume-title":"New Economics for Sustainable Development: Creative Economy","year":"2023"},{"key":"CIT0008","volume-title":"Design e Territ\u00f3rio \u2013 Valoriza\u00e7\u00e3o de identidades e produtos locais","year":"2009"},{"issue":"2","key":"CIT0009","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"225","DOI":"10.1086\/421123","article-title":"Why has critique run out of steam? 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