{"status":"ok","message-type":"work","message-version":"1.0.0","message":{"indexed":{"date-parts":[[2026,4,3]],"date-time":"2026-04-03T10:08:08Z","timestamp":1775210888157,"version":"3.50.1"},"reference-count":93,"publisher":"MDPI AG","issue":"22","license":[{"start":{"date-parts":[[2020,11,10]],"date-time":"2020-11-10T00:00:00Z","timestamp":1604966400000},"content-version":"vor","delay-in-days":0,"URL":"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by\/4.0\/"}],"funder":[{"name":"Welsh European Funding Office \/ EU ERDF","award":["Seacams2"],"award-info":[{"award-number":["Seacams2"]}]}],"content-domain":{"domain":[],"crossmark-restriction":false},"short-container-title":["Remote Sensing"],"abstract":"<jats:p>Coastal dunes have global importance as ecological habitats, recreational areas, and vital natural coastal protection. Dunes evolve due to variations in the supply and removal of sediment via both wind and waves, and on stabilization through vegetation colonization and growth. One aspect of dune evolution that is poorly understood is the longshore variation in dune response to morphodynamic forcing, which can occur over small spatial scales. In this paper, a fixed wing unmanned aerial vehicle (UAV), is used to measure the longshore variation in evolution of a dune system in a megatidal environment. Dune sections to the east and west of the study site are prograding whereas the central portion is static or eroding. The measured variation in dune response is compared to mesoscale intertidal bar migration and short-term measurements of longshore variation in wave characteristics during two storms. Intertidal sand bar migration is measured using satellite imagery: crescentic intertidal bars are present in front of the accreting portion of the beach to the west and migrate onshore at a rate of 0.1\u20130.2 m\/day; episodically the eastern end of the bar detaches from the main bar and migrates eastward to attach near the eastern end of the study area; bypassing the central eroding section. Statistically significant longshore variation in intertidal wave heights were measured using beachface mounted pressure transducers: the largest significant wave heights are found in front of the dune section suffering erosion. Spectral differences were noted with more narrow-banded spectra in this area but differences are not statistically significant. These observations demonstrate the importance of three-dimensionality in intertidal beach morphology on longshore variation in dune evolution; both through longshore variation in onshore sediment supply and through causing longshore variation in near-dune significant wave heights.<\/jats:p>","DOI":"10.3390\/rs12223689","type":"journal-article","created":{"date-parts":[[2020,11,10]],"date-time":"2020-11-10T14:10:41Z","timestamp":1605017441000},"page":"3689","update-policy":"https:\/\/doi.org\/10.3390\/mdpi_crossmark_policy","source":"Crossref","is-referenced-by-count":12,"title":["Spatial Variation in Coastal Dune Evolution in a High Tidal Range Environment"],"prefix":"10.3390","volume":"12","author":[{"given":"Iain","family":"Fairley","sequence":"first","affiliation":[{"name":"Zienkiewicz Centre for Computational Engineering, College of Engineering, Swansea University, Swansea SA1 8EN, UK"}]},{"ORCID":"https:\/\/orcid.org\/0000-0001-7694-3812","authenticated-orcid":false,"given":"Jose","family":"Horrillo-Caraballo","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Zienkiewicz Centre for Computational Engineering, College of Engineering, Swansea University, Swansea SA1 8EN, UK"}]},{"ORCID":"https:\/\/orcid.org\/0000-0001-7667-6670","authenticated-orcid":false,"given":"Ian","family":"Masters","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Zienkiewicz Centre for Computational Engineering, College of Engineering, Swansea University, Swansea SA1 8EN, UK"}]},{"ORCID":"https:\/\/orcid.org\/0000-0002-9087-3811","authenticated-orcid":false,"given":"Harshinie","family":"Karunarathna","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Zienkiewicz Centre for Computational Engineering, College of Engineering, Swansea University, Swansea SA1 8EN, UK"}]},{"ORCID":"https:\/\/orcid.org\/0000-0003-1293-4743","authenticated-orcid":false,"given":"Dominic E.","family":"Reeve","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Zienkiewicz Centre for Computational Engineering, College of Engineering, Swansea University, Swansea SA1 8EN, UK"}]}],"member":"1968","published-online":{"date-parts":[[2020,11,10]]},"reference":[{"key":"ref_1","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"1139","DOI":"10.1016\/j.scitotenv.2019.02.364","article-title":"Not just a sandy beach. The multi-service value of Mediterranean coastal dunes","volume":"668","author":"Drius","year":"2019","journal-title":"Sci. Total Environ."},{"key":"ref_2","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"164","DOI":"10.2112\/JCOASTRES-D-16-00169.1","article-title":"The Effects of Coastal Dune Volume and Vegetation on Storm-Induced Property Damage: Analysis from Hurricane Ike","volume":"34","author":"Sigren","year":"2018","journal-title":"J. Coast. Res."},{"key":"ref_3","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","unstructured":"Gao, J.J., Kennedy, D.M., and Konlechner, T.M. (2020). Coastal dune mobility over the past century: A global review. Progress Phys. Geogr. -Earth Environ.","DOI":"10.1177\/0309133320919612"},{"key":"ref_4","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"103026","DOI":"10.1016\/j.gloplacha.2019.103026","article-title":"A global \u2018greening\u2019 of coastal dunes: An integrated consequence of climate change?","volume":"182","author":"Jackson","year":"2019","journal-title":"Glob. Planet. Chang."},{"key":"ref_5","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"29","DOI":"10.1007\/s11852-020-00745-9","article-title":"A comment on some of the conclusions made by Delgado-Fernandez et al. (2019). \u201cIs \u2018re-mobilisation\u2019 nature conservation or nature destruction? A commentary\u201d","volume":"24","author":"Creer","year":"2020","journal-title":"J. Coast. Conserv."},{"key":"ref_6","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"1093","DOI":"10.1007\/s11852-019-00716-9","article-title":"Is \u2018re-mobilisation\u2019 nature restoration or nature destruction? A commentary","volume":"23","author":"Hesp","year":"2019","journal-title":"J. Coast. Conserv."},{"key":"ref_7","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","unstructured":"Castelle, B., Laporte-Fauret, Q., Marieu, V., Michalet, R., Rosebery, D., Bujan, S., Lubac, B., Bernard, J.B., Valance, A., and Dupont, P. (2019). Nature-Based Solution along High-Energy Eroding Sandy Coasts: Preliminary Tests on the Reinstatement of Natural Dynamics in Reprofiled Coastal Dunes. Water, 11.","DOI":"10.3390\/w11122518"},{"key":"ref_8","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"3","DOI":"10.1016\/j.aeolia.2017.07.002","article-title":"Coastal dune dynamics in response to excavated foredune notches","volume":"31","author":"Ruessink","year":"2018","journal-title":"Aeolian Res."},{"key":"ref_9","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"316","DOI":"10.1016\/j.geomorph.2006.04.022","article-title":"Short-term beach-dune sand budgets on the north sea coast of France: Sand supply from shoreface to dunes, and the role of wind and fetch","volume":"81","author":"Anthony","year":"2006","journal-title":"Geomorphology"},{"key":"ref_10","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"89","DOI":"10.1016\/S0169-555X(02)00165-4","article-title":"A general framework for modeling sediment supply to coastal dunes including wind angle, beach geometry, and fetch effects","volume":"49","author":"Bauer","year":"2003","journal-title":"Geomorphology"},{"key":"ref_11","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"86","DOI":"10.1016\/j.geomorph.2012.12.037","article-title":"Airflow reversal and alternating corkscrew vortices in foredune wake zones during perpendicular and oblique offshore winds","volume":"187","author":"Jackson","year":"2013","journal-title":"Geomorphology"},{"key":"ref_12","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","unstructured":"Hesp, P.A., and Smyth, T.A.G. (2016). Surfzone-Beach-Dune interactions: Flow and Sediment Transport across the Intertidal Beach and Backshore. J. Coast. Res., 8\u201312.","DOI":"10.2112\/SI75-002.1"},{"key":"ref_13","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"195","DOI":"10.1002\/esp.4217","article-title":"Offshore aeolian sediment transport across a human-modified foredune","volume":"43","author":"Nordstrom","year":"2018","journal-title":"Earth Surf. Process. Landf."},{"key":"ref_14","first-page":"664","article-title":"Offshore Aeolian Transport Across a Beach: Carrick Finn Strand, Ireland","volume":"12","author":"Nordstrom","year":"1996","journal-title":"J. Coast. Res."},{"key":"ref_15","first-page":"269","article-title":"Aeolian dune development on a macro-tidal coast with a complex wind regime, Lincolnshire coast, UK","volume":"64","author":"Montreuil","year":"2011","journal-title":"J. Coast. Res."},{"key":"ref_16","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"1121","DOI":"10.1007\/s00267-009-9388-3","article-title":"Characteristics of Coastal Dune Topography and Vegetation in Environments Recently Modified Using Beach Fill and Vegetation Plantings, Veneto, Italy","volume":"44","author":"Nordstrom","year":"2009","journal-title":"Environ. Manag."},{"key":"ref_17","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"181","DOI":"10.1016\/j.aeolia.2011.03.011","article-title":"Aeolian sediment transport and landforms in managed coastal systems: A review","volume":"3","author":"Jackson","year":"2011","journal-title":"Aeolian Res."},{"key":"ref_18","first-page":"325","article-title":"Below-ground biomass of plants, with a key contribution of buried shoots, increases foredune resistance to wave swash","volume":"125","author":"Griffin","year":"2020","journal-title":"Ann. Bot."},{"key":"ref_19","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"2295","DOI":"10.5194\/nhess-19-2295-2019","article-title":"Ensemble models from machine learning: An example of wave runup and coastal dune erosion","volume":"19","author":"Beuzen","year":"2019","journal-title":"Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci."},{"key":"ref_20","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"2647","DOI":"10.1029\/2019JF005184","article-title":"Controls of Variability in Berm and Dune Storm Erosion","volume":"124","author":"Beuzen","year":"2019","journal-title":"J. Geophys. Res. -Earth Surf."},{"key":"ref_21","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","unstructured":"Bryant, D.B., Bryant, M.A., Sharp, J.A., Bell, G.L., and Moore, C. (2019). The response of vegetated dunes to wave attack. Coast. Eng., 152.","DOI":"10.1016\/j.coastaleng.2019.103506"},{"key":"ref_22","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"1603","DOI":"10.1002\/esp.4098","article-title":"Variations in the response of the dune coast of northern France to major storms as a function of available beach sediment volume","volume":"42","author":"Crapoulet","year":"2017","journal-title":"Earth Surf. Process. Landf."},{"key":"ref_23","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"254","DOI":"10.2112\/JCOASTRES-D-15-00102","article-title":"Assessing Storm Impact on a French Coastal Dune System Using Morphodynamic Modeling","volume":"33","author":"Muller","year":"2017","journal-title":"J. Coast. Res."},{"key":"ref_24","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"146","DOI":"10.1016\/j.geomorph.2016.05.011","article-title":"Assessment of beach and dune erosion and accretion using LiDAR: Impact of the stormy 2013-14 winter and longer term trends on the Sefton Coast, UK","volume":"266","author":"Pye","year":"2016","journal-title":"Geomorphology"},{"key":"ref_25","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"1028","DOI":"10.1016\/j.coastaleng.2008.04.004","article-title":"Analysis of dune erosion processes in large-scale flume experiments","volume":"55","author":"Walstra","year":"2008","journal-title":"Coast. Eng."},{"key":"ref_26","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"205","DOI":"10.1016\/j.geomorph.2003.08.002","article-title":"Sediment supply from shoreface to dunes: Linking sediment transport measurements and long-term morphological evolution","volume":"60","author":"Aagaard","year":"2004","journal-title":"Geomorphology"},{"key":"ref_27","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","unstructured":"Cohn, N., Hoonhout, B.M., Goldstein, E.B., de Vries, S., Moore, L.J., Vinent, O.D., and Ruggiero, P. (2019). Exploring Marine and Aeolian Controls on Coastal Foredune Growth Using a Coupled Numerical Model. J. Mar. Sci. Eng., 7.","DOI":"10.3390\/jmse7010013"},{"key":"ref_28","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"4965","DOI":"10.1029\/2018GL077836","article-title":"New Insights on Coastal Foredune Growth: The Relative Contributions of Marine and Aeolian Processes","volume":"45","author":"Cohn","year":"2018","journal-title":"Geophys. Res. Lett."},{"key":"ref_29","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"31","DOI":"10.1016\/j.coastaleng.2017.10.011","article-title":"Drivers of alongshore variable dune erosion during a storm event: Observations and modelling","volume":"131","author":"Splinter","year":"2018","journal-title":"Coast. Eng."},{"key":"ref_30","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","unstructured":"Brodie, K., Conery, I., Cohn, N., Spore, N., and Palmsten, M. (2019). Spatial Variability of Coastal Foredune Evolution, Part A: Timescales of Months to Years. J. Mar. Sci. Eng., 7.","DOI":"10.3390\/jmse7050124"},{"key":"ref_31","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"120","DOI":"10.1016\/j.earscirev.2015.04.002","article-title":"Southern North Sea storm surge event of 5 December 2013: Water levels, waves and coastal impacts","volume":"146","author":"Spencer","year":"2015","journal-title":"Earth-Sci. Rev."},{"key":"ref_32","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"25","DOI":"10.2112\/SI88-004.1","article-title":"Alongshore Variability in Coastal Dune Erosion and Post-Storm Recovery, Northern Coast of France","volume":"88","author":"Ruz","year":"2019","journal-title":"J. Coast. Res."},{"key":"ref_33","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"39","DOI":"10.1016\/S0025-3227(00)00110-9","article-title":"The morphodynamics of megatidal beaches in Normandy, France","volume":"171","author":"Levoy","year":"2000","journal-title":"Mar. Geol."},{"key":"ref_34","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"563","DOI":"10.1016\/S0278-4343(00)00128-X","article-title":"Hydrodynamic variability on megatidal beaches, Normandy, France","volume":"21","author":"Levoy","year":"2001","journal-title":"Cont. Shelf Res."},{"key":"ref_35","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"42","DOI":"10.1016\/j.sedgeo.2010.09.006","article-title":"Tidal effects on the shoreface: Towards a conceptual framework","volume":"279","author":"Dashtgard","year":"2012","journal-title":"Sediment. Geol."},{"key":"ref_36","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"161","DOI":"10.1016\/j.coastaleng.2018.03.005","article-title":"Multi-timescale morphological modelling of a dune-fronted sandy beach","volume":"136","author":"Karunarathna","year":"2018","journal-title":"Coast. Eng."},{"key":"ref_37","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"101","DOI":"10.1016\/j.isprsjprs.2015.02.009","article-title":"UAV photogrammetry for topographic monitoring of coastal areas","volume":"104","author":"Goncalves","year":"2015","journal-title":"ISPRS J. Photogramm. Remote Sens."},{"key":"ref_38","first-page":"321","article-title":"Uav Application In Coastal Environment, Example Of The Oleron Island For Dunes And Dikes Survey","volume":"40-3","author":"Mallet","year":"2015","journal-title":"Isprs Geospatial Week 2015"},{"key":"ref_39","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"6880","DOI":"10.3390\/rs5126880","article-title":"Using Unmanned Aerial Vehicles (UAV) for High-Resolution Reconstruction of Topography: The Structure from Motion Approach on Coastal Environments","volume":"5","author":"Mancini","year":"2013","journal-title":"Remote Sens."},{"key":"ref_40","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"19","DOI":"10.1016\/j.coastaleng.2016.03.011","article-title":"UAVs for coastal surveying","volume":"114","author":"Turner","year":"2016","journal-title":"Coast. Eng."},{"key":"ref_41","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","unstructured":"Brunier, G., Michaud, E., Fleury, J., Anthony, E.J., Morvan, S., and Gardel, A. (2020). Assessing the relationship between macro-faunal burrowing activity and mudflat geomorphology from UAV-based Structure-from-Motion photogrammetry. Remote Sens. Environ., 241.","DOI":"10.1016\/j.rse.2020.111717"},{"key":"ref_42","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","unstructured":"de Sa, N.C., Castro, P., Carvalho, S., Marchante, E., Lopez-Nunez, F.A., and Marchante, H. (2018). Mapping the Flowering of an Invasive Plant Using Unmanned Aerial Vehicles: Is There Potential for Biocontrol Monitoring?. Front. Plant Sci., 9.","DOI":"10.3389\/fpls.2018.00293"},{"key":"ref_43","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","unstructured":"Lin, Y.C., Cheng, Y.T., Zhou, T., Ravi, R., Hasheminasab, S.M., Flatt, J.E., Troy, C., and Habib, A. (2019). Evaluation of UAV LiDAR for Mapping Coastal Environments. Remote Sens., 11.","DOI":"10.3390\/rs11242893"},{"key":"ref_44","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"50","DOI":"10.1016\/j.aeolia.2017.08.006","article-title":"UAV-imaging to model growth response of marram grass to sand burial: Implications for coastal dune development","volume":"31","author":"Nolet","year":"2018","journal-title":"Aeolian Res."},{"key":"ref_45","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"5533","DOI":"10.5194\/bg-14-5533-2017","article-title":"Exploring the contributions of vegetation and dune size to early dune development using unmanned aerial vehicle (UAV) imaging","volume":"14","author":"Nolet","year":"2017","journal-title":"Biogeosciences"},{"key":"ref_46","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","unstructured":"Suo, C., McGovern, E., and Gilmer, A. (2019). Coastal Dune Vegetation Mapping Using a Multispectral Sensor Mounted on an UAS. Remote Sens., 11.","DOI":"10.3390\/rs11151814"},{"key":"ref_47","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","unstructured":"Fairley, I., Mendzil, A., Togneri, M., and Reeve, D.E. (2018). The Use of Unmanned Aerial Systems to Map Intertidal Sediment. Remote Sens., 10.","DOI":"10.3390\/rs10121918"},{"key":"ref_48","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","unstructured":"Laporte-Fauret, Q., Marieu, V., Castelle, B., Michalet, R., Bujan, S., and Rosebery, D. (2019). Low-Cost UAV for High-Resolution and Large-Scale Coastal Dune Change Monitoring Using Photogrammetry. J. Mar. Sci. Eng., 7.","DOI":"10.3390\/jmse7030063"},{"key":"ref_49","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"141474","DOI":"10.1016\/j.scitotenv.2020.141474","article-title":"Beach-dune morphodynamics and marine macro-litter abundance: An integrated approach with Unmanned Aerial System","volume":"749","author":"Andriolo","year":"2020","journal-title":"Sci. Total Environ."},{"key":"ref_50","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","unstructured":"Taddia, Y., Stecchi, F., and Pellegrinelli, A. (2020). Coastal Mapping Using DJI Phantom 4 RTK in Post-Processing Kinematic Mode. Drones, 4.","DOI":"10.3390\/drones4020009"},{"key":"ref_51","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"1","DOI":"10.1016\/j.rse.2015.01.034","article-title":"Quantification and implications of change in organic carbon bearing coastal dune cliffs: A multiscale analysis from the Northumberland coast, UK","volume":"163","author":"Lim","year":"2015","journal-title":"Remote Sens. Environ."},{"key":"ref_52","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"255","DOI":"10.1007\/s00367-020-00638-8","article-title":"Accuracy of sand beach topography surveying by drones and photogrammetry","volume":"40","author":"Casella","year":"2020","journal-title":"Geo-Mar. Lett."},{"key":"ref_53","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"1341","DOI":"10.2112\/JCOASTRES-D-17-00160.1","article-title":"A Quantitative Comparison of Low-Cost Structure from Motion (SfM) Data Collection Platforms on Beaches and Dunes","volume":"34","author":"Conlin","year":"2018","journal-title":"J. Coast. Res."},{"key":"ref_54","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"1244","DOI":"10.2112\/JCOASTRES-D-17-00076.1","article-title":"Coastal Dune Surveying Using a Low-Cost Remotely Piloted Aerial System (RPAS)","volume":"34","author":"Moloney","year":"2018","journal-title":"J. Coast. Res."},{"key":"ref_55","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"1034","DOI":"10.1016\/j.scitotenv.2019.06.186","article-title":"Monitoring the dune-beach system of Guardamar del Segura (Spain) using UAV, SfM and GIS techniques","volume":"687","author":"Pagan","year":"2019","journal-title":"Sci. Total Environ."},{"key":"ref_56","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","unstructured":"Duffy, J.P., Shutler, J.D., Witt, M.J., DeBell, L., and Anderson, K. (2018). Tracking Fine-Scale Structural Changes in Coastal Dune Morphology Using Kite Aerial Photography and Uncertainty-Assessed Structure-from-Motion Photogrammetry. Remote Sens., 10.","DOI":"10.3390\/rs10091494"},{"key":"ref_57","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"157","DOI":"10.1016\/j.geomorph.2018.12.013","article-title":"3D mapping efficacy of a drone and terrestrial laser scanner over a temperate beach-dune zone","volume":"328","author":"Jackson","year":"2019","journal-title":"Geomorphology"},{"key":"ref_58","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"276","DOI":"10.2112\/SI85-056.1","article-title":"UAV monitoring of 3-year Foredune Partial Recovery from a Severe Winter: Truc Vert Beach, SW France","volume":"85","author":"Guillot","year":"2018","journal-title":"J. Coast. Res."},{"key":"ref_59","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"1232","DOI":"10.2112\/SI75-247.1","article-title":"Natural and Anthropogenic Coastal System Comparison Using DSM from a Low Cost UAV Survey (Capao Novo, RS\/Brazil)","volume":"75","author":"Scarelli","year":"2016","journal-title":"J. Coast. Res."},{"key":"ref_60","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","unstructured":"De Giglio, M., Greggio, N., Goffo, F., Merloni, N., Dubbini, M., and Barbarella, M. (2019). Comparison of Pixel- and Object-Based Classification Methods of Unmanned Aerial Vehicle Data Applied to Coastal Dune Vegetation Communities: Casal Borsetti Case Study. Remote Sens., 11.","DOI":"10.3390\/rs11121416"},{"key":"ref_61","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"3070","DOI":"10.1080\/01431161.2019.1698783","article-title":"Long-term spatial distribution of vegetation and sand movement following the commencement of landscape conservation activities to curb grassland encroachment at the Tottori Sand Dunes natural monument (Vegetation and sand movement in the Tottori Sand Dunes)","volume":"41","author":"Takayama","year":"2020","journal-title":"Int. J. Remote Sens."},{"key":"ref_62","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","unstructured":"Bastos, A.P., Lira, C.P., Calvao, J., Catalao, J., Andrade, C., Pereira, A.J., Taborda, R., Rato, D., Pinho, P., and Correia, O. (2018). UAV Derived Information Applied to the Study of Slow-changing Morphology in Dune Systems. J. Coast. Res.","DOI":"10.2112\/SI85-046.1"},{"key":"ref_63","unstructured":"(2014). Crymlyn Burrows & Baglan Burrows: Geomorphological Assessment, KPal."},{"key":"ref_64","unstructured":"NTSLF (2020, March 01). Mumbles Tide Gauge Site. Available online: https:\/\/www.ntslf.org\/tgi\/portinfo?port=Mumbles."},{"key":"ref_65","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"5","DOI":"10.1016\/j.marpolbul.2009.12.010","article-title":"Physical properties and processes in the Bristol Channel and Severn Estuary","volume":"61","author":"Uncles","year":"2010","journal-title":"Mar. Pollut. Bull."},{"key":"ref_66","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"106","DOI":"10.1016\/j.margeo.2015.11.007","article-title":"Numerical modelling of storm and surge events on offshore sandbanks","volume":"371","author":"Fairley","year":"2016","journal-title":"Mar. Geol."},{"key":"ref_67","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"449","DOI":"10.1016\/0951-8312(88)90025-2","article-title":"Wave influence on coastal sand transport paths in a tidally dominated environment","volume":"11","author":"Pattiaratchi","year":"1988","journal-title":"Ocean Shorel. Manag."},{"key":"ref_68","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"117","DOI":"10.1016\/0079-6611(87)90006-1","article-title":"Mechanisms for linear sandbank formation and maintenance in relation to dynamical oceanographic observations","volume":"19","author":"Pattiaratchi","year":"1987","journal-title":"Prog. Oceanogr."},{"key":"ref_69","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"125","DOI":"10.5194\/isprsarchives-XXXVIII-1-C22-125-2011","article-title":"The Accuracy Of Automatic Photogrametric Techniques On Ultra-light UAV Imagery","volume":"XXXVIII-1\/C22","author":"Strecha","year":"2012","journal-title":"Int. Arch. Photogramm. Remote Sens. Spat. Inf. Sci."},{"key":"ref_70","unstructured":"(2018, July 01). v2.10, C. Available online: http:\/\/www.cloudcompare.org\/."},{"key":"ref_71","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"43","DOI":"10.1016\/S0169-7439(97)00061-0","article-title":"Introduction to multi-layer feed-forward neural networks","volume":"39","author":"Svozil","year":"1997","journal-title":"Chemom. Intell. Lab. Syst."},{"key":"ref_72","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"525","DOI":"10.1016\/S0893-6080(05)80056-5","article-title":"A scaled conjugate gradient algorithm for fast supervised learning","volume":"6","year":"1993","journal-title":"Neural Netw."},{"key":"ref_73","unstructured":"Fairley, I., Mendzil, A., and Reeve, D.E. (2018). Monitoring of Intertidal Morphodynamics around Swansea Bay, Swansea University."},{"key":"ref_74","unstructured":"ESA (2020, October 14). Sentinal-2. Available online: https:\/\/sentinel.esa.int\/web\/sentinel\/missions\/sentinel-2."},{"key":"ref_75","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"104528","DOI":"10.1016\/j.envsoft.2019.104528","article-title":"CoastSat: A Google Earth Engine-enabled Python toolkit to extract shorelines from publicly available satellite imagery","volume":"122","author":"Vos","year":"2019","journal-title":"Environ. Model. Softw."},{"key":"ref_76","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"18","DOI":"10.1016\/j.rse.2017.06.031","article-title":"Google Earth Engine: Planetary-scale geospatial analysis for everyone","volume":"202","author":"Gorelick","year":"2017","journal-title":"Remote Sens. Environ."},{"key":"ref_77","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"351","DOI":"10.3389\/fmars.2020.00351","article-title":"In situ Observations of Wave Transformation and Infragravity Bore Development Across Reef Flats of Varying Geomorphology","volume":"7","author":"Cheriton","year":"2020","journal-title":"Front. Mar. Sci."},{"key":"ref_78","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"97","DOI":"10.1002\/2017JF004277","article-title":"The Role of Bed Roughness in Wave Transformation Across Sloping Rock Shore Platforms","volume":"123","author":"Poate","year":"2018","journal-title":"J. Geophys. Res. Earth Surf."},{"key":"ref_79","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","unstructured":"Power, H.E., Kinsela, M.A., Stringari, C.E., Kendall, M.J., Morris, B.D., and Hanslow, D.J. (2018). Automated Sensing of Wave Inundation across a Rocky Shore Platform Using a Low-Cost Camera System. Remote Sens., 10.","DOI":"10.3390\/rs10010011"},{"key":"ref_80","unstructured":"RBR (2020, October 25). Ruskin User Guide\u2014Compact Loggers Revision B. Available online: https:\/\/rbr-global.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/0000215revB-Ruskin-User-Guide-Compact-Loggers.pdf."},{"key":"ref_81","unstructured":"RBR (2020, November 02). Wave Processing. Available online: https:\/\/docs.rbr-global.com\/support\/ruskin\/ruskin-features\/waves\/wave-processing."},{"key":"ref_82","first-page":"3","article-title":"Estimation of wave statistics from spectral simulation","volume":"9","author":"Goda","year":"1970","journal-title":"Rep. Port Harb. Res. Inst. Jpn."},{"key":"ref_83","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"40","DOI":"10.1002\/wea.2465","article-title":"The UK\u2019s wet and stormy winter of 2013\/2014","volume":"70","author":"Kendon","year":"2015","journal-title":"Weather"},{"key":"ref_84","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","unstructured":"Robertson, B., Hall, K., Zytner, R., and Nistor, I. (2013). Breaking Waves: Review of Characteristic Relationships. Coast. Eng. J., 55.","DOI":"10.1142\/S0578563413500022"},{"key":"ref_85","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"15","DOI":"10.1016\/j.coastaleng.2016.10.001","article-title":"Assessment of runup predictions by empirical models on non-truncated beaches on the south-east Australian coast","volume":"119","author":"Atkinson","year":"2017","journal-title":"Coast. Eng."},{"key":"ref_86","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"103148","DOI":"10.1016\/j.earscirev.2020.103148","article-title":"On the prediction of runup, setup and swash on beaches","volume":"204","author":"Coco","year":"2020","journal-title":"Earth-Sci. Rev."},{"key":"ref_87","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"674","DOI":"10.3390\/jmse3030674","article-title":"Observations and Predictions of Wave Runup, Extreme Water Levels, and Medium-Term Dune Erosion during Storm Conditions","volume":"2","author":"Suanez","year":"2015","journal-title":"J. Mar. Sci. Eng."},{"key":"ref_88","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"3111","DOI":"10.1029\/97JC02791","article-title":"Observations of swash under highly dissipative conditions","volume":"103","author":"Ruessink","year":"1998","journal-title":"J. Geophys. Res. Ocean."},{"key":"ref_89","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","unstructured":"Guisado-Pintado, E., and Jackson, D.W.T. (2019). Coastal Impact From High-Energy Events and the Importance of Concurrent Forcing Parameters: The Cases of Storm Ophelia (2017) and Storm Hector (2018) in NW Ireland. Front. Earth Sci., 7.","DOI":"10.3389\/feart.2019.00190"},{"key":"ref_90","first-page":"634","article-title":"Poststorm Evolution of Beach-Dune Morphology: Padre Island National Seashore, Texas","volume":"31","author":"Weymer","year":"2013","journal-title":"J. Coast. Res."},{"key":"ref_91","first-page":"785","article-title":"The Effect of Tide Range on Beach Morphodynamics and Morphology: A Conceptual Beach Model","volume":"9","author":"Gerhard","year":"1993","journal-title":"J. Coast. Res."},{"key":"ref_92","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"1","DOI":"10.1016\/j.margeo.2011.04.004","article-title":"Morphodynamic characteristics and classification of beaches in England and Wales","volume":"286","author":"Scott","year":"2011","journal-title":"Mar. Geol."},{"key":"ref_93","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"103358","DOI":"10.1016\/j.earscirev.2020.103358","article-title":"Multiple intertidal bars on beaches: A review","volume":"210","author":"Biausque","year":"2020","journal-title":"Earth-Sci. Rev."}],"container-title":["Remote Sensing"],"original-title":[],"language":"en","link":[{"URL":"https:\/\/www.mdpi.com\/2072-4292\/12\/22\/3689\/pdf","content-type":"unspecified","content-version":"vor","intended-application":"similarity-checking"}],"deposited":{"date-parts":[[2025,10,11]],"date-time":"2025-10-11T10:31:49Z","timestamp":1760178709000},"score":1,"resource":{"primary":{"URL":"https:\/\/www.mdpi.com\/2072-4292\/12\/22\/3689"}},"subtitle":[],"short-title":[],"issued":{"date-parts":[[2020,11,10]]},"references-count":93,"journal-issue":{"issue":"22","published-online":{"date-parts":[[2020,11]]}},"alternative-id":["rs12223689"],"URL":"https:\/\/doi.org\/10.3390\/rs12223689","relation":{},"ISSN":["2072-4292"],"issn-type":[{"value":"2072-4292","type":"electronic"}],"subject":[],"published":{"date-parts":[[2020,11,10]]}}}