{"status":"ok","message-type":"work","message-version":"1.0.0","message":{"indexed":{"date-parts":[[2026,10,6]],"date-time":"2026-10-06T09:55:39Z","timestamp":1791280539441,"version":"4.1.0"},"reference-count":45,"publisher":"MDPI AG","issue":"19","license":[{"start":{"date-parts":[[2026,10,6]],"date-time":"2026-10-06T00:00:00Z","timestamp":1791244800000},"content-version":"vor","delay-in-days":0,"URL":"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by\/4.0\/"}],"content-domain":{"domain":[],"crossmark-restriction":false},"short-container-title":["Int. J. Mol. Sci.","IJMS"],"abstract":"<jats:p>The growing demand for natural cosmetic ingredients has increased interest in plant-derived extracts with multifunctional biological properties. In this study, oil-in-water (O\/W) cosmetic emulsions containing Pinus nigra needle extracts obtained by different extraction methods (Soxhlet, reflux, hot oil maceration, and cold oil maceration) and a commercially available essential oil were developed and comprehensively characterized. The formulations were evaluated for physicochemical stability (pH, viscosity, and color), total phenolic content (TPC), taxifolin content, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-tyrosinase activities, as well as taxifolin permeability using the Skin-PAMPA model. Water-based extracts, particularly the reflux extract, exhibited the highest TPC (8.02 \u00b1 0.63 mg GAE\/mL cream), while formulations containing water extracts demonstrated the greatest antioxidant activity (79.72 \u00b1 5.38% (reflux) and 76.78 \u00b1 4.36% (soxhlet) DPPH inhibition). In contrast, oil-based extracts showed higher anti-inflammatory activity, with hyaluronidase inhibition reaching 85.25 \u00b1 0.89%, and enhanced taxifolin permeability (50.56 \u00b1 2.82 \u00d7 10\u22126 cm\/s). Principal component analysis indicated a positive correlation between TPC and antioxidant activity (r = 0.806), whereas permeability was negatively correlated with TPC and antioxidant activity but positively associated with oil-based formulations. All emulsions exhibited satisfactory physicochemical stability during storage. Different extraction approaches were associated with distinct chemical and functional profiles of the resulting P. nigra-based cosmetic emulsions.<\/jats:p>","DOI":"10.3390\/ijms27198877","type":"journal-article","created":{"date-parts":[[2026,10,6]],"date-time":"2026-10-06T09:34:18Z","timestamp":1791279258000},"page":"8877","update-policy":"https:\/\/doi.org\/10.3390\/mdpi_crossmark_policy","source":"Crossref","is-referenced-by-count":0,"title":["Development of Cosmetic Emulsions Enriched with Pinus nigra Extracts Prepared by Different Extraction Approaches: Physicochemical Stability, Biological Activity and Taxifolin Permeability"],"prefix":"10.3390","volume":"27","author":[{"ORCID":"https:\/\/orcid.org\/0000-0003-0751-2802","authenticated-orcid":false,"given":"Nikolaos","family":"Bikiaris","sequence":"first","affiliation":[{"name":"Laboratory of Chemistry and Technology of Polymers and Dyes, Department of Chemistry, Aristotle University of Thessaloniki, 54124 Thessaloniki, Greece"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"},{"role":"methodology","vocabulary":"credit"},{"role":"software","vocabulary":"credit"},{"role":"validation","vocabulary":"credit"},{"role":"formal-analysis","vocabulary":"credit"},{"role":"investigation","vocabulary":"credit"},{"role":"data-curation","vocabulary":"credit"},{"role":"writing-original-draft","vocabulary":"credit"}]},{"ORCID":"https:\/\/orcid.org\/0000-0002-0418-9336","authenticated-orcid":false,"given":"Magdalena","family":"Paczkowska-Walendowska","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Department of Pharmacognosy and Biomaterials, Poznan University of Medical Sciences, Rokietnicka 3, 60-806 Poznan, Poland"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"},{"role":"methodology","vocabulary":"credit"},{"role":"validation","vocabulary":"credit"},{"role":"formal-analysis","vocabulary":"credit"},{"role":"investigation","vocabulary":"credit"},{"role":"writing-original-draft","vocabulary":"credit"},{"role":"writing-review-editing","vocabulary":"credit"}]},{"ORCID":"https:\/\/orcid.org\/0000-0003-0891-5419","authenticated-orcid":false,"given":"Judyta","family":"Cielecka-Piontek","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Department of Pharmacognosy and Biomaterials, Poznan University of Medical Sciences, Rokietnicka 3, 60-806 Poznan, Poland"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"},{"role":"writing-original-draft","vocabulary":"credit"},{"role":"writing-review-editing","vocabulary":"credit"},{"role":"supervision","vocabulary":"credit"}]},{"given":"Nikolaos","family":"Nikolaidis","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Laboratory of Chemistry and Technology of Polymers and Dyes, Department of Chemistry, Aristotle University of Thessaloniki, 54124 Thessaloniki, Greece"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"},{"role":"conceptualization","vocabulary":"credit"},{"role":"writing-original-draft","vocabulary":"credit"},{"role":"visualization","vocabulary":"credit"},{"role":"supervision","vocabulary":"credit"},{"role":"project-administration","vocabulary":"credit"}]}],"member":"1968","published-online":{"date-parts":[[2026,10,6]]},"reference":[{"key":"ref_1","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"25148","DOI":"10.1007\/s11356-021-17567-3","article-title":"Biocosmetics: Technological advances and future outlook","volume":"30","author":"Goyal","year":"2021","journal-title":"Environ. 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