{"status":"ok","message-type":"work","message-version":"1.0.0","message":{"indexed":{"date-parts":[[2026,8,31]],"date-time":"2026-08-31T05:18:14Z","timestamp":1788153494269,"version":"build-2803163510"},"reference-count":193,"publisher":"MDPI AG","issue":"17","license":[{"start":{"date-parts":[[2026,8,28]],"date-time":"2026-08-28T00:00:00Z","timestamp":1787875200000},"content-version":"vor","delay-in-days":0,"URL":"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by\/4.0\/"}],"content-domain":{"domain":[],"crossmark-restriction":false},"short-container-title":["Molecules"],"abstract":"<jats:p>The field of cosmetic science is rapidly evolving due to advances in skin biology research and increasing demand for evidence-based, personalized skincare solutions. A key aspect of this progress is the targeted modulation of biological macromolecules involved in skin aging, pigmentation, inflammation, and tissue regeneration. This review highlights major molecular targets in modern cosmetic research, focusing on telomerase, histone deacetylases (particularly sirtuins), matrix metalloproteinases, antioxidant enzymes, CD44 receptor, tyrosinase, microphthalmia-associated transcription factor, and melanocortin receptors, all of which regulate processes such as DNA repair, gene expression, extracellular matrix remodeling, and melanogenesis. Recent findings indicate that natural and synthetic compounds can effectively modulate these targets, supporting anti-aging and depigmenting strategies. Telomerase activators and sirtuin modulators show potential in maintaining cellular homeostasis and delaying skin aging. In pigmentation research, the transition from mushroom to human tyrosinase assays has enabled development of more selective inhibitors, including thiamidol. The review also addresses molecular targets relevant to inflammatory skin disorders, scars, and skin atrophy. Advances in molecular and biotechnological methods are expected to improve mechanistic understanding and support the rational design of safer, more effective next-generation cosmetic ingredients and formulations.<\/jats:p>","DOI":"10.3390\/molecules31173036","type":"journal-article","created":{"date-parts":[[2026,8,31]],"date-time":"2026-08-31T04:24:03Z","timestamp":1788150243000},"page":"3036","update-policy":"https:\/\/doi.org\/10.3390\/mdpi_crossmark_policy","source":"Crossref","is-referenced-by-count":0,"title":["Molecular Targets in Modern Cosmetic Science"],"prefix":"10.3390","volume":"31","author":[{"ORCID":"https:\/\/orcid.org\/0000-0002-9825-4302","authenticated-orcid":false,"given":"Justyna","family":"Popi\u00f3\u0142-Adamska","sequence":"first","affiliation":[{"name":"Department of Pharmaceutical Biochemistry, Faculty of Pharmacy, Jagiellonian University Medical College, 30-688 Krakow, Poland"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"ORCID":"https:\/\/orcid.org\/0009-0001-5281-3156","authenticated-orcid":false,"given":"Karolina","family":"\u0141agosz","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Department of Experimental Dermatology and Cosmetology, Faculty of Pharmacy, Jagiellonian University Medical College, 30-688 Krakow, Poland"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"ORCID":"https:\/\/orcid.org\/0009-0003-4570-0633","authenticated-orcid":false,"given":"Micha\u0142","family":"Kolisz","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Department of Experimental Dermatology and Cosmetology, Faculty of Pharmacy, Jagiellonian University Medical College, 30-688 Krakow, Poland"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"given":"Klaudia","family":"Uniwersa\u0142","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Department of Experimental Dermatology and Cosmetology, Faculty of Pharmacy, Jagiellonian University Medical College, 30-688 Krakow, Poland"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"given":"Ma\u0142gorzata","family":"Kabat-Walewska","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Department of Experimental Dermatology and Cosmetology, Faculty of Pharmacy, Jagiellonian University Medical College, 30-688 Krakow, Poland"},{"name":"Doctoral School of Medical and Health Sciences, Jagiellonian University Medical College, 30-688 Krakow, Poland"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"given":"Yelyzaveta","family":"Shuha","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Department of Experimental Dermatology and Cosmetology, Faculty of Pharmacy, Jagiellonian University Medical College, 30-688 Krakow, Poland"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"given":"Nattaya","family":"Lourith","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"School of Cosmetic Science, Mae Fah Luang University, Chiang Rai 57100, Thailand"},{"name":"Phytocosmetics and Cosmeceuticals Research Group, School of Cosmetic Science, Mae Fah Luang University, Chiang Rai 57100, Thailand"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"given":"Mayuree","family":"Kanlayavattanakul","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"School of Cosmetic Science, Mae Fah Luang University, Chiang Rai 57100, Thailand"},{"name":"Phytocosmetics and Cosmeceuticals Research Group, School of Cosmetic Science, Mae Fah Luang University, Chiang Rai 57100, Thailand"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]},{"ORCID":"https:\/\/orcid.org\/0000-0003-4162-4760","authenticated-orcid":false,"given":"Agnieszka","family":"Gunia-Krzy\u017cak","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Department of Experimental Dermatology and Cosmetology, Faculty of Pharmacy, Jagiellonian University Medical College, 30-688 Krakow, Poland"}],"role":[{"vocabulary":"crossref","role":"author"}]}],"member":"1968","published-online":{"date-parts":[[2026,8,28]]},"reference":[{"key":"ref_1","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"1196","DOI":"10.1097\/00006534-200003000-00058","article-title":"Beauty and the Body: The Origins of Cosmetics","volume":"105","year":"2000","journal-title":"Plast. 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