{"status":"ok","message-type":"work","message-version":"1.0.0","message":{"indexed":{"date-parts":[[2026,1,30]],"date-time":"2026-01-30T19:41:26Z","timestamp":1769802086066,"version":"3.49.0"},"reference-count":46,"publisher":"MDPI AG","issue":"9","license":[{"start":{"date-parts":[[2021,5,7]],"date-time":"2021-05-07T00:00:00Z","timestamp":1620345600000},"content-version":"vor","delay-in-days":0,"URL":"https:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by\/4.0\/"}],"funder":[{"DOI":"10.13039\/501100001871","name":"Funda\u00e7\u00e3o para a Ci\u00eancia e a Tecnologia","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","award":["UIDB\/04469\/2020"],"award-info":[{"award-number":["UIDB\/04469\/2020"]}],"id":[{"id":"10.13039\/501100001871","id-type":"DOI","asserted-by":"publisher"}]}],"content-domain":{"domain":[],"crossmark-restriction":false},"short-container-title":["Applied Sciences"],"abstract":"<jats:p>The perming of hair is a common styling procedure with negative impact on the overall properties of the hair fibers. Usually, this process uses harsh chemicals to promote the disruption of disulfide bonds and the formation of new bonds to change the shape of hair. Here, we explored bovine serum albumin (BSA), silk fibroin (SF), keratin and two fusion recombinant proteins (KP-UM and KP-Cryst) as new perming agents. A phosphate buffer prepared at different pH values (5, 7 and 9) was used to apply the proteins to virgin Asian hair, and a hot BaByliss was used to curl the hair fibers. To assess the potential of the protein formulations for hair styling, the perming efficiency and the perming resistance to wash were measured. Furthermore, the fiber water content was evaluated to assess if the proteins protected the hair during the styling process. Despite all of the proteins being able to assist in the curling of Asian hair, the best perming efficiency and perming resistance to wash results were observed for BSA and keratin. These proteins showed perming efficiency values close to that measured for a commercial perming product (chemical method), particularly at pH 5 and 9. The increase in the hair\u2019s internal and external water contents revealed a protective effect provided by the proteins during the application of heat in the styling procedure. This study shows the potential of proteins to be used in the development of new eco-friendly hair styling products.<\/jats:p>","DOI":"10.3390\/app11094245","type":"journal-article","created":{"date-parts":[[2021,5,7]],"date-time":"2021-05-07T22:36:24Z","timestamp":1620426984000},"page":"4245","update-policy":"https:\/\/doi.org\/10.3390\/mdpi_crossmark_policy","source":"Crossref","is-referenced-by-count":14,"title":["Proteins as Hair Styling Agents"],"prefix":"10.3390","volume":"11","author":[{"ORCID":"https:\/\/orcid.org\/0000-0002-7194-7467","authenticated-orcid":false,"given":"Ana","family":"Tinoco","sequence":"first","affiliation":[{"name":"Centre of Biological Engineering, Campus de Gualtar, University of Minho, 4710-057 Braga, Portugal"}]},{"ORCID":"https:\/\/orcid.org\/0000-0002-0409-3940","authenticated-orcid":false,"given":"Andr\u00e9 F.","family":"Costa","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Centre of Biological Engineering, Campus de Gualtar, University of Minho, 4710-057 Braga, Portugal"}]},{"ORCID":"https:\/\/orcid.org\/0000-0002-2103-0482","authenticated-orcid":false,"given":"Salom\u00e9","family":"Lu\u00eds","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Centre of Biological Engineering, Campus de Gualtar, University of Minho, 4710-057 Braga, Portugal"}]},{"ORCID":"https:\/\/orcid.org\/0000-0002-3052-2964","authenticated-orcid":false,"given":"Madalena","family":"Martins","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Centre of Biological Engineering, Campus de Gualtar, University of Minho, 4710-057 Braga, Portugal"}]},{"ORCID":"https:\/\/orcid.org\/0000-0001-7204-2064","authenticated-orcid":false,"given":"Artur","family":"Cavaco-Paulo","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Centre of Biological Engineering, Campus de Gualtar, University of Minho, 4710-057 Braga, Portugal"}]},{"ORCID":"https:\/\/orcid.org\/0000-0003-3298-5564","authenticated-orcid":false,"given":"Artur","family":"Ribeiro","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"Centre of Biological Engineering, Campus de Gualtar, University of Minho, 4710-057 Braga, Portugal"}]}],"member":"1968","published-online":{"date-parts":[[2021,5,7]]},"reference":[{"key":"ref_1","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"180","DOI":"10.1111\/j.1473-2130.2004.00064.x","article-title":"Hair colouring, permanent styling and hair structure","volume":"2","author":"Harrison","year":"2004","journal-title":"J. Cosmet. Dermatol."},{"key":"ref_2","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"431","DOI":"10.1016\/S0738-081X(01)00201-2","article-title":"Hair care products: Waving, straightening, conditioning, and coloring","volume":"19","author":"Bolduc","year":"2001","journal-title":"Clin. Dermatol."},{"key":"ref_3","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"51581","DOI":"10.1039\/C7RA10461H","article-title":"Changing the shape of hair with keratin peptides","volume":"7","author":"Cruz","year":"2017","journal-title":"RSC Adv."},{"key":"ref_4","unstructured":"Mitsui, T. (1997). New Cosmetic Science, Elsevier."},{"key":"ref_5","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"58594","DOI":"10.1039\/C6RA08797C","article-title":"Effects of chemical structures of polycarboxylic acids on molecular and performance manipulation of hair keratin Kaili","volume":"6","author":"Song","year":"2016","journal-title":"RSC Adv."},{"key":"ref_6","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"103","DOI":"10.1006\/taap.2001.9285","article-title":"Toxic Effects of Potassium Bromate and Thioglycolate on Vestibuloocular Reflex Systems of Guinea Pigs and Humans","volume":"177","author":"Young","year":"2001","journal-title":"Toxicol. Appl. Pharmacol."},{"key":"ref_7","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"73","DOI":"10.1093\/occmed\/kqs190","article-title":"Respiratory function and chemical exposures among female hairdressers in Palestine","volume":"63","author":"Nemer","year":"2013","journal-title":"Occup. Med."},{"key":"ref_8","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"428","DOI":"10.1136\/oemed-2014-102437","article-title":"Airway inflammation and ammonia exposure among female Palestinian hairdressers: A cross-sectional study","volume":"72","author":"Nemer","year":"2015","journal-title":"Occup. Environ. Med."},{"key":"ref_9","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"46","DOI":"10.1016\/j.enzmictec.2004.03.014","article-title":"Effects of bisulfite and sulfite on the microalga Botryococcus braunii","volume":"35","author":"Yang","year":"2004","journal-title":"Enzyme Microb. Technol."},{"key":"ref_10","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"35","DOI":"10.1016\/0045-6535(83)90177-7","article-title":"Toxicity of pH, Heavy Metals and Bisulfite to a Freshwater Green Alga","volume":"12","author":"Baker","year":"1983","journal-title":"Chemosphere"},{"key":"ref_11","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"6663","DOI":"10.1039\/C5CC01538C","article-title":"The molecular motion of bovine serum albumin under physiological conditions is ion specific","volume":"51","author":"Medda","year":"2015","journal-title":"Chem. Commun."},{"key":"ref_12","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","unstructured":"Qi, Y., Wang, H., Wei, K., Yang, Y., Zheng, R.-Y., Kim, I.S., and Zhang, K.-Q. (2017). A Review of Structure Construction of Silk Fibroin Biomaterials from Single Structures to Multi-Level Structures. Int. J. Mol. Sci., 18.","DOI":"10.3390\/ijms18030237"},{"key":"ref_13","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"297","DOI":"10.1021\/ie50243a023","article-title":"The Isoelectric Point of Silk Fibroin","volume":"22","author":"Hawley","year":"1930","journal-title":"Ind. Eng. Chem."},{"key":"ref_14","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"705","DOI":"10.1007\/s00418-008-0435-6","article-title":"The human keratins: Biology and pathology","volume":"129","author":"Moll","year":"2008","journal-title":"Histochem. cell Biol."},{"key":"ref_15","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"516","DOI":"10.1111\/j.1469-7580.2009.01066.x","article-title":"Structure and functions of keratin proteins in simple, stratified, keratinized and cornified epithelia","volume":"214","author":"Bragulla","year":"2009","journal-title":"J. Anat."},{"key":"ref_16","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"174","DOI":"10.1016\/j.molimm.2012.05.011","article-title":"Structural and immunologic characterization of bovine, horse, and rabbit serum albumins","volume":"52","author":"Majorek","year":"2012","journal-title":"Mol. Immunol."},{"key":"ref_17","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"651","DOI":"10.15171\/apb.2016.080","article-title":"Purification and characterization of bovine serum albumin using chromatographic method","volume":"6","author":"Balkani","year":"2016","journal-title":"Adv. Pharm. Bull."},{"key":"ref_18","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"1","DOI":"10.1186\/1479-5876-10-117","article-title":"Preparation and characterization of silk fibroin as a biomaterial with potential for drug delivery","volume":"10","author":"Zhang","year":"2012","journal-title":"J. Transl. Med."},{"key":"ref_19","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"324","DOI":"10.1016\/j.compositesb.2006.06.012","article-title":"Spider and mulberry silkworm silks as compatible biomaterials","volume":"38","author":"Hakimi","year":"2007","journal-title":"Compos. Part B Eng."},{"key":"ref_20","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"244","DOI":"10.1111\/ics.12035","article-title":"Keratins and lipids in ethnic hair","volume":"35","author":"Cruz","year":"2013","journal-title":"Int. J. Cosmet. Sci."},{"key":"ref_21","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"279","DOI":"10.1016\/bs.mie.2015.07.018","article-title":"Isolation and Analysis of Keratins and Keratin-Associated Proteins from Hair and Wool","volume":"Volume 568","author":"Plowman","year":"2016","journal-title":"Methods in Enzymology"},{"key":"ref_22","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"113067","DOI":"10.1016\/j.indcrop.2020.113067","article-title":"Keratin:Zein particles as vehicles for fragrance release on hair","volume":"159","author":"Tinoco","year":"2021","journal-title":"Ind. Crops Prod."},{"key":"ref_23","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"1","DOI":"10.1038\/s41598-019-50283-0","article-title":"Fusion proteins with chromogenic and keratin binding modules","volume":"9","author":"Tinoco","year":"2019","journal-title":"Sci. Rep."},{"key":"ref_24","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"1","DOI":"10.3389\/fbioe.2019.00298","article-title":"Crystallin Fusion Proteins Improve the Thermal Properties of Hair","volume":"7","author":"Tinoco","year":"2019","journal-title":"Front. Bioeng. Biotechnol."},{"key":"ref_25","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"506","DOI":"10.1007\/s10924-015-0725-8","article-title":"Keratin Extracted from Chicken Feather Waste: Extraction, Preparation, and Structural Characterization of the Keratin and Keratin\/Biopolymer Films and Electrospuns","volume":"23","author":"Ayutthaya","year":"2015","journal-title":"J. Polym. Environ."},{"key":"ref_26","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"408","DOI":"10.1111\/ics.12483","article-title":"Keratin-based particles for protection and restoration of hair properties","volume":"40","author":"Tinoco","year":"2018","journal-title":"Int. J. Cosmet. Sci."},{"key":"ref_27","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","unstructured":"Wang, L., Cavaco-Paulo, A., Xu, B., and Martins, M. (2019). Polymeric Hydrogel Coating for Modulating the Shape of Keratin Fiber. Front. Chem., 7.","DOI":"10.3389\/fchem.2019.00749"},{"key":"ref_28","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"1055","DOI":"10.1007\/s12221-010-1055-z","article-title":"Restoring Important Hair Properties with Wool Keratin Proteins and Peptides","volume":"11","author":"Barba","year":"2010","journal-title":"Fibers Polym."},{"key":"ref_29","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"1409","DOI":"10.1002\/prot.24037","article-title":"Molecular modeling of hair keratin\/peptide complex: Using MM-PBSA calculations to describe experimental binding results","volume":"80","author":"Azoia","year":"2012","journal-title":"Proteins Struct. Funct. Bioinform."},{"key":"ref_30","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","unstructured":"Pelikh, O., and Keck, C.M. (2020). Hair follicle targeting and dermal drug delivery with curcumin drug nanocrystals\u2014Essential influence of excipients. Nanomaterials, 10.","DOI":"10.3390\/nano10112323"},{"key":"ref_31","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"20140305","DOI":"10.1098\/rsif.2014.0305","article-title":"On the strength of \u03b2-sheet crystallites of Bombyx mori silk fibroin","volume":"11","author":"Cheng","year":"2014","journal-title":"J. R. Soc. Interface"},{"key":"ref_32","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"176","DOI":"10.1016\/j.cplett.2018.01.022","article-title":"Structures and interactions among globular proteins above the isoelectric point in the presence of divalent ions: A small angle neutron scattering and dynamic light scattering study","volume":"693","author":"Kundu","year":"2018","journal-title":"Chem. Phys. Lett."},{"key":"ref_33","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","unstructured":"Malinauskyte, E., Cornwell, P.A., Reay, L., Shaw, N., and Petkov, J. (2020). Effect of equilibrium pH on the structure and properties of bleach-damaged human hair fibers. Biopolymers, e23401.","DOI":"10.1002\/bip.23401"},{"key":"ref_34","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"263","DOI":"10.1016\/0141-8130(90)90007-W","article-title":"Differential scanning calorimetric studies on bovine serum albumin: I. Effects of pH and ionic strength","volume":"12","author":"Yamasaki","year":"1990","journal-title":"Int. J. Biol. Macromol."},{"key":"ref_35","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"e00288","DOI":"10.1016\/j.btre.2018.e00288","article-title":"Health improvement of human hair and their reshaping using recombinant keratin K31","volume":"20","author":"Basit","year":"2018","journal-title":"Biotechnol. Rep."},{"key":"ref_36","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"43","DOI":"10.1016\/S0379-0738(96)02047-6","article-title":"On cosmetically treated hair\u2014Aspects and pitfalls of interpretation","volume":"84","author":"Skopp","year":"1997","journal-title":"Forensic Sci. Int."},{"key":"ref_37","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"765","DOI":"10.1039\/C4AN01495B","article-title":"Probing the secondary structure of bovine serum albumin during heat-induced denaturation using mid-infrared fiberoptic sensors","volume":"140","author":"Lu","year":"2015","journal-title":"Analyst"},{"key":"ref_38","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"26","DOI":"10.1111\/ics.12663","article-title":"Penetration of different molecular weight hydrolysed keratins into hair fibres and their effects on the physical properties of textured hair","volume":"43","author":"Malinauskyte","year":"2021","journal-title":"Int. J. Cosmet. Sci."},{"key":"ref_39","unstructured":"Snyder, M.J., and Bjurman, S. (1991). Water-Vapor Hair Treatment Apparatus. (5,010,905), U.S. Patent."},{"key":"ref_40","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"179","DOI":"10.1111\/j.1473-2165.2012.00620.x","article-title":"Hair weathering and hair capacitance mapping: A pilot study","volume":"11","year":"2012","journal-title":"J. Cosmet. Dermatol."},{"key":"ref_41","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"136","DOI":"10.1016\/j.tca.2009.05.005","article-title":"Water content of hair and nails","volume":"494","author":"Barba","year":"2009","journal-title":"Thermochim. Acta"},{"key":"ref_42","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"33","DOI":"10.1016\/j.tca.2010.03.004","article-title":"Water absorption \/ desorption of human hair and nails","volume":"503\u2013504","author":"Barba","year":"2010","journal-title":"Thermochim. Acta"},{"key":"ref_43","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"1411","DOI":"10.1007\/s11340-014-9904-0","article-title":"The Effect of Hydration on the Mechanical Behaviour of Hair","volume":"54","author":"Benzarti","year":"2014","journal-title":"Exp. Mech."},{"key":"ref_44","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","unstructured":"Zayas, J.F. (1997). Water Holding Capacity of Proteins. Functionality of Proteins in Food, Springer.","DOI":"10.1007\/978-3-642-59116-7"},{"key":"ref_45","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"144","DOI":"10.1016\/j.foodhyd.2016.11.015","article-title":"Water-binding capacity of protein-rich particles and their pellets","volume":"65","author":"Peters","year":"2017","journal-title":"Food Hydrocoll."},{"key":"ref_46","doi-asserted-by":"crossref","first-page":"42","DOI":"10.1002\/dta.1652","article-title":"Identification and analysis of damaged or porous hair","volume":"6","author":"Hill","year":"2014","journal-title":"Drug Test. Anal."}],"container-title":["Applied Sciences"],"original-title":[],"language":"en","link":[{"URL":"https:\/\/www.mdpi.com\/2076-3417\/11\/9\/4245\/pdf","content-type":"unspecified","content-version":"vor","intended-application":"similarity-checking"}],"deposited":{"date-parts":[[2025,10,11]],"date-time":"2025-10-11T05:58:04Z","timestamp":1760162284000},"score":1,"resource":{"primary":{"URL":"https:\/\/www.mdpi.com\/2076-3417\/11\/9\/4245"}},"subtitle":[],"short-title":[],"issued":{"date-parts":[[2021,5,7]]},"references-count":46,"journal-issue":{"issue":"9","published-online":{"date-parts":[[2021,5]]}},"alternative-id":["app11094245"],"URL":"https:\/\/doi.org\/10.3390\/app11094245","relation":{},"ISSN":["2076-3417"],"issn-type":[{"value":"2076-3417","type":"electronic"}],"subject":[],"published":{"date-parts":[[2021,5,7]]}}}