{"status":"ok","message-type":"work","message-version":"1.0.0","message":{"indexed":{"date-parts":[[2025,5,14]],"date-time":"2025-05-14T12:03:11Z","timestamp":1747224191145,"version":"3.40.5"},"reference-count":11,"publisher":"Trans Tech Publications, Ltd.","license":[{"start":{"date-parts":[[2022,6,10]],"date-time":"2022-06-10T00:00:00Z","timestamp":1654819200000},"content-version":"vor","delay-in-days":0,"URL":"https:\/\/www.scientific.net\/PolicyAndEthics\/PublishingPolicies"},{"start":{"date-parts":[[2022,6,10]],"date-time":"2022-06-10T00:00:00Z","timestamp":1654819200000},"content-version":"tdm","delay-in-days":0,"URL":"https:\/\/www.scientific.net\/license\/TDM_Licenser.pdf"}],"content-domain":{"domain":[],"crossmark-restriction":false},"short-container-title":["MSF"],"abstract":"<jats:p>It is common knowledge that natural dyes are fit for textile dyeing since ancient times. Basically, natural dyes are elements derived from natural resources, and classified as plant, animal, mineral, and microbial dyes based upon their source of origin. Natural dyeing is a very important part of the old Portuguese tradition which is, currently, regaining awareness due to sustainability and health issues that has arisen from the massive application of synthetic dyes in textile coloration. In this study we sought to optimize the extraction of <jats:italic>Sorghum vulgare<\/jats:italic> (curumanine and apigeninidin) through the use of a design of experiments (DOE) methodology and to develop an analytical method by high performance liquid chromatography-diode array detector (HPLC-DAD) for their quantification. Dyes extracted and isolated were then used to dye 100% wool jersey knits by way of the exhaustion process. The color strength and fastness properties of the dyed samples against washing, and rubbing were evaluated. Our findings proved that meta-mordanted samples dyed at 80\u00b0C for 4h obtained the best strength and color fastness results.<\/jats:p>","DOI":"10.4028\/p-3l55eb","type":"journal-article","created":{"date-parts":[[2022,6,10]],"date-time":"2022-06-10T07:16:45Z","timestamp":1654845405000},"page":"209-223","source":"Crossref","is-referenced-by-count":0,"title":["Extraction Optimization of &lt;i&gt;Sorghum vulgare &lt;\/i&gt;for Natural Wool Dyeing Applications"],"prefix":"10.4028","volume":"1063","author":[{"given":"Nuno","family":"Belino","sequence":"first","affiliation":[{"name":"University of Beira Interior"}]},{"given":"Estef\u00e2nia","family":"Alves","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"University of Beira Interior"}]},{"given":"Ema","family":"Almeida","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"University of Beira Interior"}]},{"given":"Carina","family":"Gameiro","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"University of Beira Interior"}]},{"given":"Tiago","family":"Rosado","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"University of Beira Interior"}]},{"given":"Lu\u00eds","family":"Passarinha","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"University of Beira Interior"}]},{"given":"Eugenia","family":"Gallardo","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"University of Beira Interior"}]},{"ORCID":"https:\/\/orcid.org\/0000-0002-6063-2814","authenticated-orcid":false,"given":"Maria","family":"Pinto","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"University of Beira Interior"}]},{"given":"Jesus","family":"Rodilla","sequence":"additional","affiliation":[{"name":"University of Beira Interior"}]}],"member":"2457","published-online":{"date-parts":[[2022,6,10]]},"reference":[{"key":"4551300","unstructured":"Goodwin, Jill.\u00a0A Dyer's Manual. (1982)\u00a0ISBN\u00a00-7207-1327-7."},{"key":"4707506","unstructured":"Calderin, Jay (2009).\u00a0Form, Fit, Fashion.: Rockport. p.125.\u00a0ISBN\u00a0978-1-59253-541-5."},{"key":"4551302","unstructured":"Faizal, Elly Burhaini (2011).\u00a0\u00abIndonesia told to produce more green, products\u00bb.\u00a0The Jakarta Post."},{"key":"4551303","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","unstructured":"Gilbert K.G., (2003), Secondary products: dyes. Encyclopedia of Applied Plant Sciences, pp.1174-1179.","DOI":"10.1016\/b0-12-227050-9\/00138-1"},{"key":"4584728","unstructured":"Virendra G., (2019), Fundamentals of Natural Dyes and Its Application on Textile Substrates,."},{"key":"4584729","unstructured":"Mathur P., Metha A., Kanwar R., Bhandari C.S. (2003), Use of neem bark as wool colourant\u2014Optimum conditions of wool dyeing. Indian Journal of Fibre and Textile Research 2003; 28:95."},{"key":"4584730","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","first-page":"1","DOI":"10.1155\/2014\/497278","article-title":"The Dyeing Procedures Evaluation of Wool Fibers with<i>Prangos ferulacea<\/i>and Fastness Characteristics","volume":"2014","author":"Barani","unstructured":"Hossein B., Shahdokht R. (2014), The dyeing procedures evaluation of wool fibers with prangos ferulacea and fastness characteristics. Advances in Materials Science and Engineering 2014: 1-6.","journal-title":"Advances in Materials Science and Engineering","ISSN":"https:\/\/id.crossref.org\/issn\/1687-8442","issn-type":"electronic"},{"issue":"7","key":"4584731","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","first-page":"2533","DOI":"10.1007\/s00216-009-3447-8","article-title":"Design of experiments, a powerful tool for method development in forensic toxicology: application to the optimization of urinary morphine 3-glucuronide acid hydrolysis","volume":"396","author":"Costa","year":"2010","unstructured":"Costa S., Barroso M., Casta\u00f1era A., Dias M. (2010), Design of experiments, a powerful tool for method development in forensic toxicology: application to the optimization of urinary morphine 3-glucuronide acid hydrolysis. Analytical and Bioanalytical Chemisty 396(7); 2533-42.","journal-title":"Analytical and Bioanalytical Chemistry","ISSN":"https:\/\/id.crossref.org\/issn\/1618-2650","issn-type":"electronic"},{"key":"4584732","unstructured":"Miller, J.N.; Miller J.C. Statistics and Chemometrics for Analytical Chemistry. 5th Ed. (2005) ISBN-13:\u00a0978-0131291928."},{"key":"4584733","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","unstructured":"Rattanaphol M., Jir\u00ed K. Jakub W. and Jarmila S., (2011), Natural dye from eucalyptus leaves and application for wool fabric dyeing by using padding techniques. Natural Dyes, Ed. Emrye Kumbasar, Intech Open, ISBN 978-953-307-783-3.","DOI":"10.5772\/20738"},{"issue":"1","key":"4584734","doi-asserted-by":"publisher","first-page":"10","DOI":"10.1111\/j.1478-4408.2000.tb00002.x","article-title":"Metal ion effect on dyeing of wool fabric with catechu","volume":"116","author":"Bhattacharya","year":"2006","unstructured":"Bhattacharya S. D., Shah A. K. (2000). Metal ion effect on dyeing of wool fabric with catechu, Coloration Technology,116; 10-12.","journal-title":"Coloration Technology","ISSN":"https:\/\/id.crossref.org\/issn\/1478-4408","issn-type":"electronic"}],"container-title":["Materials Science Forum"],"original-title":[],"link":[{"URL":"https:\/\/www.scientific.net\/MSF.1063.209.pdf","content-type":"unspecified","content-version":"vor","intended-application":"similarity-checking"}],"deposited":{"date-parts":[[2024,3,20]],"date-time":"2024-03-20T21:03:26Z","timestamp":1710968606000},"score":1,"resource":{"primary":{"URL":"https:\/\/www.scientific.net\/MSF.1063.209"}},"subtitle":[],"short-title":[],"issued":{"date-parts":[[2022,6,10]]},"references-count":11,"URL":"https:\/\/doi.org\/10.4028\/p-3l55eb","relation":{},"ISSN":["1662-9752"],"issn-type":[{"type":"electronic","value":"1662-9752"}],"subject":[],"published":{"date-parts":[[2022,6,10]]}}}